Back to 2024 Tesla Cybertruck

2024 TESLA CYBERTRUCK

Cyberbeast Tri Motor AWDFWDAUTOMATICev
10 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs88Labor363Torque3208Fluid5DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls10
suspension

Control Arm Bushing - Front Upper

for 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast Tri Motor AWD · FWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12

Replace the front upper control arm bushing on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast. Due to the integrated nature of the upper control arm assembly on the Cybertruck, the bushing is typically serviced by replacing the complete upper control arm — verify parts availability before starting.

Warnings

⚠️This Cybertruck uses a 48V low-voltage architecture, NOT 12V. Standard 12V tools and jumper procedures from other Teslas do not apply. 48V can deliver dangerous arc-flash energy — use insulated tools and disconnect properly.
⚠️DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. The Cybertruck uses an 800V HV system — contact is lethal.
Air suspension: vehicle ride height must be controlled before lifting. Place the vehicle in Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen to prevent the air suspension from attempting to self-level while on stands.
Steer-by-wire: there is no mechanical steering linkage. Do not assume turning the yoke moves the wheels when systems are powered down. Verify wheel position physically before reassembly.
Stainless steel exoskeleton — do not strike body panels with hammers or pry against panel edges. Fingerprints and contamination can permanently mark the stainless; wear clean gloves when contacting bodywork.
Cybertruck curb weight exceeds 6,600 lb. Use only lifting equipment rated for this weight and lift only at Tesla-designated jacking points.
ℹ️After any front suspension work, a wheel alignment is required. Steer-by-wire systems may also require a steering angle / centering calibration via Tesla service tooling.

Tools required

Metric socket set (10-22mm)Essential
Calibrated torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie rod pullerEssential
Heavy-duty floor jack rated for Cybertruck curb weight (>7,000 lb)Essential
Jack stands rated for Cybertruck curb weightEssential
Hydraulic press or bushing removal/install tool kitEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shafts)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / diagonal cuttersEssential
Insulated gloves rated for low-voltage work
Wheel chocksEssential
Insulated 10mm wrench (for 48V battery disconnect)Essential

Parts

  • Front upper control arm bushing (or complete upper control arm assembly if bushing is not separately serviced) × 1 — Tesla Cybertruck front upper control arm / bushing — confirm with Tesla parts catalog
  • Ball joint cotter pin (new) × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin for upper ball joint nut
  • Control arm pivot bolts (if Tesla specifies single-use) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if single-use

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. NOTE: This Cybertruck uses a 48V low-voltage system (not 12V). Locate the 48V LV battery per Tesla service documentation and disconnect using insulated tools.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Engage Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
  7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
  8. Lift the front of the vehicle at Tesla-designated jacking points and support on rated jack stands. Confirm stability before working underneath.
  9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
  10. Visually inspect the area for any orange cabling, HV components, or damaged wiring before proceeding. Stop if anything is unfamiliar.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Support the lower control arm / knuckle
    Place a jack under the lower control arm or steering knuckle to support suspension load. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the upper ball joint is separated and keeps the air spring/strut from extending unexpectedly.
    Do not place the jack under the air spring assembly or any sensor. Support only at solid structural points.
  2. 2
    Disconnect sway bar end link (if required for clearance)
    If access to the upper control arm requires it, disconnect the sway bar end link from the suspension. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut
    Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Discard the pin — it must be replaced with a new one. Loosen and remove the ball joint nut.
    Always replace the cotter pin with a new OEM-spec part. Never reuse.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Separate upper ball joint from knuckle
    Using a ball joint separator or appropriate puller, separate the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Avoid striking the knuckle or ball joint with a hammer, which can damage the steer-by-wire components, sensors, or stainless components nearby.
    Do not let the knuckle swing free — it is heavy and can damage the half-shaft, brake hose, or wheel speed sensor harness.
  5. 5
    Disconnect any sensor or harness clips on the upper arm
    Inspect the upper control arm for any wiring clips, ride-height sensor links, or harness routing. Carefully release these before removing the arm. Note routing for reassembly.
    If a ride-height sensor link is present, handle gently — these sensors are required for air suspension and ADAS calibration.
  6. 6
    Remove upper control arm pivot bolts
    Support the upper control arm. Remove the inboard pivot bolts securing the upper arm to the chassis/frame mount. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cams or shims for reinstallation.
    ℹ️If alignment cams are present, mark their position before removal to provide a baseline — final alignment must still be performed on a rack.
  7. 7
    Remove upper control arm from vehicle
    Maneuver the upper control arm out of the chassis. Inspect the arm, mounting points, and bushing bores for cracks, corrosion, or elongation.
  8. 8
    Replace bushing (or replace complete arm)
    If the bushing is serviced separately per Tesla parts catalog, press the old bushing out using a hydraulic press and the manufacturer-specified bushing tool, then press in the new bushing to the correct depth and orientation. If Tesla supplies the upper control arm only as a complete assembly, install the new complete arm. Refer to Tesla Service Manual for press load limits and orientation marks.
    Do not heat aluminum components to remove bushings — this weakens the arm. Use a press only.
  9. 9
    Reinstall upper control arm to chassis
    Position the upper control arm into its chassis mount. Hand-thread the pivot bolts in the original orientation. Do NOT final-torque yet — control arm pivot bolts must be torqued with the suspension loaded at ride height.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reconnect upper ball joint to knuckle
    Insert the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification, then continue tightening only as needed to align the next castellation with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend its legs to secure.
    ⚠️Never loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further within spec. A loose ball joint nut can cause loss of vehicle control.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Reconnect harnesses and sensors
    Reattach any wiring clips, harness routing, or ride-height sensor links released during removal. Confirm no harness is pinched or contacting moving suspension parts.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
  2. Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the wheels (this is required to torque the control arm bushing pivot bolts correctly — torquing while unloaded will pre-stress the new bushing and shorten its life).
  3. Final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolts to specification with the vehicle at ride height.
  4. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
  5. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery using insulated tools.
  6. Exit Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen and allow air suspension to self-level.
  7. Cycle the suspension through Low/Standard/High settings to confirm normal operation.

Verification

  • Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen related to suspension, air suspension, ABS, ADAS, or steering.
  • Verify the steer-by-wire system tracks correctly — gently turn the yoke at low speed in a safe area and confirm wheel response is normal and centered.
  • Inspect ball joint, control arm bolts, and sway bar link for proper torque and witness marks.
  • Confirm the new cotter pin is installed at the upper ball joint and legs are bent.
  • Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — required after any control arm or bushing service. The Cybertruck's steer-by-wire and air suspension may also require steering angle and ride-height calibration via Tesla service tooling.
  • On the first test drive, listen for clunks over bumps and confirm no pulling or off-center yoke position.
  • While the vehicle is on the lift, take the opportunity to inspect items on Tesla's real-world service intervals: brake fluid (replace every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years), tire rotation (every ~6,250 mi), and front drive unit gear oil if mileage warrants. Tesla's 'no scheduled maintenance' claim does not reflect actual service needs.

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