steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast Tri Motor AWD · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
10
Replacement of both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast Tri Motor. Steer-by-wire architecture means no steering column input affects the rack during service, but a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.
Warnings
⚠️This Cybertruck uses 800V HV architecture and a 48V low-voltage system — NOT 12V. Confirm correct LV battery location and disconnect procedure before any work.
⚠️Never touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. Orange = lethal high voltage.
⚠Steer-by-wire: there is NO mechanical link between the yoke and the rack. Do not rely on yoke position to indicate wheel position. Keep the key fob far from the vehicle during service so the rack does not actuate unexpectedly.
⚠Air suspension: place the vehicle in Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen before lifting to prevent the system from trying to self-level.
⚠Stainless steel exoskeleton: do not strike body panels with a hammer. Use the manufacturer-specified jacking points only — improper lifting can deform structural members.
ℹ️A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after this job. Do not return the vehicle to service without it.
Tools required
Two-post or four-post lift (rated for ~7,000+ lb Cybertruck curb weight)Essential
Floor jack and jack stands (heavy-duty, truck-rated)
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (10–150 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end / ball joint separator (pickle fork or screw-type puller)Essential
Cotter pin pliers / diagonal cuttersEssential
Digital calipers or tape measure (to record tie rod length)Essential
Paint pen or scribe (to mark thread reference)
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Insulated gloves rated for low-voltage service
Four-wheel alignment rack (post-repair)Essential
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly (Cybertruck-specific) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified Cybertruck front tie rod end — verify against VIN
- Castle nut / tie rod end nut × 2 — OEM-specified — typically supplied with new tie rod end
- Cotter pin × 2 — OEM-specified split pin sized to castle nut
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the low-voltage battery. NOTE: this Cybertruck uses a 48V low-voltage architecture — confirm the correct disconnect point and use insulated tools.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Before lifting: enable Jack Mode / Service Mode on the touchscreen so the air suspension does not try to self-level.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle on a truck-rated lift using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points. Support with stands if using a floor jack.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Visually verify no orange HV cabling is routed near the steering rack work area before proceeding.
Procedure
- 1Center and lock the steeringWith the key fob removed and the vehicle powered down, the steer-by-wire rack should remain static. Visually confirm both front wheels point straight ahead. Do not turn the yoke during the procedure — on a steer-by-wire system the rack may not respond as expected.⚠Steer-by-wire: yoke and rack are electronically linked only. Treat the rack as potentially live until LV power is confirmed disconnected.
- 2Record reference measurementsBefore loosening anything, measure and record the exposed thread length between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end lock nut on BOTH sides. Mark the lock nut position relative to the inner tie rod with a paint pen. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting until alignment.
- 3Loosen the tie rod lock nutHold the inner tie rod flats with a wrench and break loose the outer tie rod lock nut. Do not rotate the lock nut yet — just break it free so the outer end can be unthreaded later. Apply penetrating oil if seized.
- 4Remove the cotter pin and castle nut at the steering knuckleStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with new. Loosen and remove the castle nut.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 5Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckleUse a screw-type tie rod separator or a manufacturer-approved ball joint puller to release the tapered stud from the knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork tools if you intend to reuse any associated boot. Support the tie rod as it releases.⚠Do not strike the steering knuckle or any stainless body structure with a hammer.
- 6Unthread the outer tie rod endCount and record the exact number of turns required to remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. This is your starting point for installing the new end at the same length. Leave the lock nut on the inner tie rod at its marked position as a reference.
- 7Repeat for the opposite sidePerform steps 3–6 on the opposite tie rod. Record the turn count for each side independently — they may differ slightly due to prior alignment.
- 8Install new outer tie rod endsThread each new outer tie rod end onto its inner tie rod using the recorded turn count from removal. The lock nut should remain backed off so the new end can seat against it. Match exposed thread length to your pre-removal measurement on each side.
- 9Reconnect tie rod ends to steering knucklesInsert the tapered stud of each new tie rod end into its steering knuckle. Install a new castle nut and torque to specification. Align the castle nut slot with the stud hole by tightening slightly further if needed (never loosen to align). Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs to retain.⚠Use new cotter pins on both sides — never reuse.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 10Snug the lock nuts (final torque after alignment)Hand-snug the tie rod lock nuts against the new outer ends to hold the temporary toe setting for moving the vehicle to the alignment rack. Do NOT torque to final spec yet — final torque is applied AFTER alignment per the verified spec.ℹ️Tie Rod Lock Nut final torque (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft) is applied only after the four-wheel alignment is set.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification (Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery.
- Exit Jack/Service Mode on the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.
- Power on the vehicle and verify no chassis, steering, or suspension warnings are displayed.
- Drive the vehicle carefully (straight-line, low speed) onto a four-wheel alignment rack.
- Perform a full four-wheel alignment to OEM specification.
- After alignment is finalized, hold each outer tie rod end and torque the tie rod lock nuts to the verified spec.
- Recheck cotter pins are properly bent and secured on both sides.
Verification
- Confirm no steering, suspension, or stability control warnings on the touchscreen after a key cycle.
- With the vehicle at ride height, perform a steer-by-wire calibration / steering angle sensor relearn if prompted by the vehicle (refer to Tesla Service Manual — may require Toolbox; if so, refer to a Tesla-certified technician).
- Test drive: verify the yoke remains centered when driving straight, no pulling, no clunking over bumps, and no audible play from the front end.
- Re-inspect cotter pins and lock nut torque after the test drive.
- Confirm alignment printout shows toe, camber, and caster within OEM spec for the Cybertruck Tri Motor.
- Note for owner: Cybertruck tires wear quickly due to vehicle mass and instant torque — recommend tire rotation every 6,250 mi per Tesla guidance.