Replacement of a rear door power window regulator on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck. The Cybertruck's stainless exoskeleton and frameless rear glass require careful handling — the door card is held by clips and concealed fasteners, and the window must be supported before releasing the regulator.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear door window regulator assembly (Cybertruck-specific, left or right as applicable) × 1 — OEM Tesla Cybertruck rear regulator — confirm side via VIN with Tesla Parts
• Door vapor barrier / butyl sealant (if existing barrier is damaged on removal) × 1 — Generic butyl rope sealant equivalent to OEM
• Replacement plastic retention clips for door card (as needed) × 1 — OEM-equivalent door panel clips

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. NOTE: Cybertruck uses a 48V LV system (not 12V) — locate the LV battery per the Tesla Service Manual and follow the manufacturer-specified disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Lower the affected rear window approximately halfway BEFORE disconnecting the LV battery, if the regulator still functions, to expose the regulator-to-glass fasteners through the access holes.
7. Open the rear door fully and protect the door sill and lower stainless trim with a soft pad.
8. Have a helper available to support the glass during regulator removal, or pre-stage tape/suction cups to hold the glass in the up position.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear door interior trim pieces
   Using a non-marring plastic trim tool, carefully release any small trim caps covering fasteners on the door pull and switch pack. Work slowly — the Cybertruck's interior panels use a mix of clips and screws, and forcing them risks cracking the substrate.
2. 2

   Remove the door card (interior trim panel)
   Remove the manufacturer-specified retaining screws around the door pull and lower edge of the panel. Starting at a lower corner, gently release the perimeter clips with a wide plastic pry tool. Lift the panel upward to disengage it from the window belt-line and tilt the top away from the door. Disconnect the wiring harness(es) for the switch pack, courtesy lighting, and speaker before fully removing the panel. Set the panel face-up on a padded surface.
   ⚠Do not yank the panel — internal connectors and a tether may still be attached. Support the panel while disconnecting.
3. 3

   Peel back the vapor barrier
   Carefully peel the plastic vapor / acoustic barrier away from the butyl sealant, working from one edge. Preserve the barrier and butyl bead intact if possible — it is critical for water management and NVH. If the butyl tears, plan to replace it with an equivalent butyl rope on reassembly.
4. 4

   Support the window glass
   If the window is not already at half-travel exposing the regulator-to-glass clamps through the access holes, manually slide the glass to that position. Once the clamps are accessible, secure the glass to the door's outer skin with strong painter's tape (multiple strips over the top edge to the exterior) or use a suction cup holder. The glass MUST be supported before the carriers are released.
   ⚠Do not tape directly to the stainless exoskeleton without a protective film — adhesive residue is difficult to remove from brushed stainless.
5. 5

   Release the glass from the regulator carriers
   Through the door inner access holes, loosen the manufacturer-specified glass clamp fasteners on the regulator carrier(s). Once loose, gently lift the glass up out of the carriers and confirm it is fully supported by the tape/suction holder at the top.
6. 6

   Disconnect the regulator motor electrical connector
   Locate the regulator motor harness connector inside the door. Depress the locking tab and unplug the connector. Inspect the connector for corrosion or pin damage — a common cause of intermittent rear window failure on early Cybertrucks.
   ℹ️On 48V LV systems, even a 'dead' circuit can carry residual energy through capacitive elements. Verify the LV battery is disconnected before unplugging.
7. 7

   Remove the regulator assembly mounting fasteners
   Remove the regulator-to-door mounting fasteners (typically located along the inner door structure at the regulator rail upper and lower mounting points). Note fastener locations and orientations — take a photo before removal. Support the regulator assembly as the last fastener is removed.
   Torque spec

   Module Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Maneuver the regulator out of the door cavity
   Tilt and rotate the regulator assembly to clear the inner door structure and remove it through the largest access opening. Do not force it — if it binds, reposition rather than pulling. Compare the new regulator side-by-side with the old unit to confirm correct part and orientation before installing.
9. 9

   Install the new regulator assembly
   Maneuver the new regulator into the door cavity in the reverse orientation of removal. Hand-start all mounting fasteners before tightening any of them — this allows the rail to self-align. Once all fasteners are seated, torque per specification.
   Torque spec

   Module Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect the regulator motor connector
    Plug the motor harness connector back in until the lock clicks. Confirm the connector is fully seated — a partial seat is a common cause of comeback complaints.
11. 11

    Reseat the glass into the regulator carriers
    Lower the glass back into the regulator carrier clamps. Position the glass per OEM alignment marks (or center it in the channel if no marks are present). Tighten the glass clamp fasteners to the manufacturer-specified torque — refer to Tesla Service Manual, as this value is not in the verified data set for this procedure.
    ⚠Over-torquing the glass clamps can crack the laminated tempered rear glass. Torque to OEM specification only.

Reassembly

1. Remove the tape or suction holders from the glass.
2. Reseat the vapor barrier and reinforce the butyl bead with new butyl rope where the old material tore. A complete seal is required to prevent water intrusion into the cabin and door electronics.
3. Reconnect all door card harness connectors (switch pack, lighting, speaker). Verify each lock tab clicks home.
4. Align the door card to the belt-line first, then press the perimeter clips home with palm pressure — do not strike. Replace any broken clips.
5. Reinstall the door pull and panel screws. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery, observing the manufacturer-specified terminal torque.
7. Battery terminal bolts: torque per spec.
8. Allow the vehicle to fully wake and complete its boot sequence (touchscreen up, all systems initialized) before testing the window.

Verification

• Cycle the rear window fully up and fully down at least 3 times using the door switch and verify smooth, quiet operation with no binding or rubbing.
• Re-initialize the auto-up/auto-down (one-touch) function: with the door closed, hold the switch fully UP until the glass stops, then hold for an additional ~2 seconds; repeat for DOWN. Verify auto-up reverses when an obstruction (e.g., a rolled towel) is placed in the path — this anti-pinch function is safety-critical.
• Check the touchscreen for any window/door related alerts. Cybertruck will log faults if the regulator current draw is abnormal.
• Spray water along the door belt line and verify no water intrusion into the cabin or door cavity (vapor barrier integrity check).
• Confirm interior door panel sits flush with no gaps at the belt-line or armrest.
• Test the rear door switch from the front master switch panel as well, to verify the multiplex/LIN communication is intact.

More procedures for this vehicle