Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. The Model 3 uses a multi-link front suspension; the lower 'control arm' here refers to the front lower fore-link/aft-link assembly that bolts to the subframe and connects to the lower ball joint at the steering knuckle.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (LH or RH as applicable) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 (2024) front lower control arm — order by VIN
• Ball joint castle nut cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — single use
• Control arm subframe bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if marked single-use (TTY)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically accessible under a panel in the front trunk area or under the rear seat depending on build — confirm location before disconnect, and follow Tesla's published disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. In the touchscreen (before LV disconnect), put the vehicle in 'Jack Mode' / 'Transport Mode' if available to disable auto-leveling and air-suspension routines (N/A on coil 3, but disable Sentry and Cabin Overheat Protection).
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle on Tesla-specified pinch-weld lift points using approved pucks. Support with jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect work area for HV cabling and damage
   Before any disassembly, visually inspect the front subframe, wheel well, and underbody for orange HV cabling, damaged wiring, or fluid leaks. The front drive unit on the dual-motor Performance is forward of the subframe — confirm no orange cabling is routed near your work area. If anything orange is in your path, STOP.
   ⚠️If orange cabling is in the work zone, do not proceed — refer to a Tesla-certified technician.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the lower control arm. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen/hex key and remove the nut. Swing the end link out of the way. Inspect the link for play; replace if worn.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut and discard it. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on by a few turns to protect the threads and catch the joint. Use a ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a bungee or stand — do not let it hang on the brake hose, ABS sensor lead, or CV axle boot.
   ⚠Do not let the half-shaft pull out of the front drive unit. Excessive outward travel can dislodge the inner CV joint.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Note alignment marks on control arm pivot bolts
   Before loosening, mark the position of any cam/eccentric washers (if equipped) at the inboard pivot bolts with a paint pen. This preserves a rough alignment baseline. A full alignment is still required after the job.
5. 5

   Remove inboard control arm bolts at subframe
   Support the control arm with a transmission jack or stand. Remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) securing the control arm to the front subframe. Bolts may be tight — use a breaker bar. If Tesla specifies these as single-use (TTY) fasteners, replace them. Refer to Tesla Service Manual for fastener replacement requirements.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove control arm from vehicle
   Lower the control arm and maneuver it out from under the vehicle. If it is bound on the subframe, tap with a dead-blow mallet only. Do not pry against aluminum subframe surfaces.
   ⚠Aluminum subframe — no steel hammers, no aggressive prying against machined faces.
7. 7

   Compare old and new control arms
   Place the new control arm next to the old. Confirm bushing orientation, ball joint stud length, and any side-specific (LH/RH) markings match. Verify the new arm is for AWD/Performance trim — some 3 variants share part numbers but not all.
8. 8

   Install new control arm — inboard side first
   Position the new control arm in the subframe pivot location. Install the inboard pivot bolt(s) hand-tight only. Do NOT final-torque yet — the bushing must be set at ride height. Reinstall any cam/eccentric washers in their previously marked positions.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect lower ball joint to steering knuckle
   Raise the knuckle and seat the ball joint stud into the tapered bore of the knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the next slot with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut at the control arm. Hold the internal shaft with a hex key while torquing to prevent spinning.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to load suspension
    Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is fully loaded at ride height (tires on ground or on alignment-rack drive-on stands). This is essential before final-torquing the bushing bolts.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque inboard control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification. This sets the bushing in its neutral position and prevents premature bushing failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final torque on lug nuts in star pattern
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star/cross pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm cotter pin is installed at the ball joint and legs are bent.
2. Confirm sway bar end link nut is fully torqued.
3. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery in the reverse of the disconnect procedure.
4. Close the frunk/cabin and re-enable Sentry Mode and any features you disabled, if desired.
5. Power up the vehicle and clear any chassis/ABS faults that may have set during LV disconnect — most will self-clear after a short drive.
6. Drive the vehicle directly to an alignment shop — do not put it back in regular service until alignment is complete.

Verification

• Perform a 4-wheel alignment. Model 3 is sensitive to camber/toe and will show uneven tire wear within a few thousand miles if alignment is off.
• Test drive at low speed and verify no clunks over bumps, no pull, and steering wheel is centered.
• Recheck the lower ball joint cotter pin and all torque marks after the first 100 miles.
• Visually inspect that no ABS wiring, brake hose, or wheel-speed sensor lead was pinched, stretched, or rerouted incorrectly during the repair.
• Confirm the touchscreen shows no chassis, ABS, or stability-control alerts after a short drive cycle.
• While under the vehicle, take the opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years), and check the front drive unit gear oil interval — Tesla now recommends inspection rather than treating it as 'lifetime.'

More procedures for this vehicle