1978 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER

Typical onset: any mileage—age-related component failure

Symptoms: Hard starting when warm, runs fine cold, Hesitation, surging, or stalling at idle, Check engine light (if still functional), Poor fuel economy, black smoke from exhaust

Fix: Chrysler's early electronic ignition system used moisture-sensitive control modules and pickup coils that fail with age. Most techs bypass the entire Lean Burn system and retrofit a traditional electronic ignition distributor (like from pre-1977 models). Takes 2-3 hours for an experienced tech who knows the wiring. Parts are still available through Mopar restoration suppliers.

Estimated cost: $400-750

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi or 40+ years of age

Symptoms: Rattling noise from front of engine on cold start that quiets after 10-15 seconds, Loss of power, especially on acceleration, Check timing—often retarded 8-12 degrees from spec, Hard starting, backfiring through carburetor

Fix: Mopar V8 timing chains stretch with age and mileage, especially if oil changes were neglected. The nylon cam sprocket teeth can also chip. Requires timing cover removal, new chain/sprocket set, and often a new timing cover gasket and oil pan gasket while you're in there. Budget 5-7 hours labor. This is THE preventive maintenance job on any used New Yorker—do it immediately if no documentation exists.

Estimated cost: $650-1,200

Symptoms: Fuel leaking from base—warped plastic main body, Severe hesitation off idle, then sudden surge, Flooding, fuel smell in garage, Black smoke, terrible fuel economy (8-10 mpg)

Fix: The Thermoquad uses a plastic main body that warps with heat cycles and age, causing vacuum leaks and fuel leaks. Rebuilding rarely works long-term due to body warpage. Most techs swap to an Edelbrock 1406 or 1411 carburetor with an adapter plate. Swap takes 2-3 hours including tuning. If you insist on originality, good used Thermoquads run $300-600 and still may have the same issues.

Estimated cost: $450-800

Typical onset: any mileage—age degrades rubber seals

Symptoms: ATF puddle under front of transmission or rear tail housing, Low fluid level causes delayed engagement or slipping, Pink/red fluid spots on driveway

Fix: Front pump seal and tail housing seal commonly leak after 40+ years. Front seal requires transmission removal (6-8 hours labor), while tail shaft seal can be done with trans in-car in 1-2 hours. Most owners address rear seal first, then do front seal if rebuilding transmission. The transmissions themselves are bulletproof if fluid is maintained—these are among Chrysler's best components.

Estimated cost: $200-400 (rear seal), $800-1,400 (front seal)

Symptoms: Front end sits noticeably lower than rear, especially one side, Clunking from front suspension over bumps, Excessive tire wear on inner edges, Car bottoms out easily over dips

Fix: Torsion bars rust through in salt-belt cars, especially if undercoating wasn't maintained. When they snap, the front corner collapses. Replacement requires unloading the bar, removing the front anchor, and sliding out the bar—4-5 hours per side. Always replace bushings and shock absorbers at the same time. Finding good bars is getting difficult; expect to search salvage yards or restoration suppliers.

Estimated cost: $800-1,500 per side

Symptoms: Visible rust perforation in floor pans under carpet, Frame rail rust near front suspension mounts, Bubbling paint at lower quarter panels behind rear wheels, Trunk floor rust, especially spare tire well

Fix: These cars used poor-quality steel and minimal rust protection. Frame rails can rust to the point of structural failure, making the car unsafe. Proper repair requires cutting out bad metal and welding in new panels—20-40 hours depending on severity. Surface rust is manageable; perforations or structural rust often total the car economically. ALWAYS inspect frame and floors before purchase.

Estimated cost: $3,000-8,000+ depending on extent