1966 DODGE CORONET

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi original, or unknown history

Symptoms: Rattling noise on cold startup that quiets after warmup, Hard starting or backfiring through carburetor, Loss of power and erratic idle timing, Check timing marks - they'll wander if chain is stretched

Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and front seal while you're in there. Plan 4-6 hours labor for typical small-block (273/318), more for big-blocks (383/361) due to tighter engine bay. Must set timing correctly during reassembly or you'll chase your tail on carb tuning forever.

Estimated cost: $400-800

Symptoms: Front end suddenly drops on one side - catastrophic failure, Clunking from front suspension over bumps, Uneven ride height side-to-side that doesn't adjust, Visible rust or cracking at torsion bar hex sockets in lower control arm

Fix: If anchors break loose from the frame or lower control arms crack, you're looking at welding repairs or replacement LCAs. Northeast/rust belt cars are notorious for this. Inspect annually with a wire brush. If anchor pocket is crushed or cracked, replace the LCA - don't trust a weld on a 60-year-old stressed member. 6-8 hours per side if doing it right with alignment afterward.

Estimated cost: $800-1,500

Symptoms: Master cylinder leaks brake fluid from rear seal into booster area, Complete brake loss if any line ruptures - no dual circuit backup, Soft pedal that goes to floor with pumping, Drum brake wheel cylinders weeping fluid

Fix: This is a pre-dual-circuit system (1967+ got split systems). Master cylinder rebuilds last lived their life - replace with new unit. Budget another 2-3 hours to rebuild or replace all four wheel cylinders, flush lines, and bleed system. Many owners convert to dual-circuit master from later B-body for safety - adds $200-300 and 2 hours but gives you a fighting chance if a line blows. I won't drive one without this upgrade.

Estimated cost: $500-1,200

Symptoms: Gas smell in garage or driveway puddles after sitting, Black smoke on startup, floods out, Hard starting when hot - vapor lock combined with flooding, Raw fuel dripping from carburetor vents or primaries

Fix: Carter AFB (273/318) and AVS (383) carbs gum up if sitting, and modern ethanol gas accelerates this. Rebuild kit runs $50-80, labor 2-3 hours for teardown, ultrasonic clean, and reassembly with proper float setting. If carb body is warped or corroded, replacement cores are $200-400. Don't chase tuning issues before addressing this - you'll waste days.

Estimated cost: $250-600

Symptoms: Windshield leaks at bottom corners during rain, Dash pad sits unevenly or won't mount properly, Rust visible at fresh air vent intake below windshield, Heater core leaks often reveal cowl rot underneath

Fix: Cowl plenum area traps leaves and moisture, rusting from inside out. Patch panels are available but welding access requires dash removal (8-12 hours minimum). If dash frame itself is rotted, you're looking at 20+ hours for full repair including windshield R&R. Check this BEFORE buying - it's a deal-breaker on rusty examples. Surface rust is fixable; structural rot means walk away unless it's a numbers-matching Hemi car.

Estimated cost: $1,500-4,000

Symptoms: Ammeter shows discharge or swings wildly, Electrical accessories cut out intermittently, Burning smell from firewall area, Melted or discolored connector housing at firewall pass-through

Fix: Mopar used a multi-pin bulkhead connector that corrodes and creates resistance, causing heat buildup. Current draw from alternator can melt pins entirely. Repair involves disassembly, cleaning terminals, dielectric grease, and often splicing in heavier gauge wire to bypass worst terminals. 3-4 hours labor. Preventive: upgrade to external voltage regulator wiring or MAD Electrical bypass (~$150 kit plus 2 hours). Ignore this and you'll have a fire or get stranded.

Estimated cost: $300-600