1969 DODGE CORONET

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi or unknown history

Symptoms: Hard starting when warm, extended cranking, Rough idle with ignition timing jumping around, Rattling noise from timing cover on cold starts, Loss of power, backfiring through carburetor

Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and front seal while you're in there. Add 1 hour if water pump is seized to studs. Figure 4-5 hours for a straightforward job with good access. Original single-row chains were marginal—go double-row aftermarket. Strongly recommend new timing tab and degree the cam while it's apart.

Estimated cost: $450-850

Typical onset: Original rubber typically shot by now regardless of mileage

Symptoms: Clunking over bumps from front suspension, Wandering steering, poor return to center, Uneven tire wear on inner edges, Front end feels loose or vague at highway speeds

Fix: Lower control arm bushings require pressing or torch work if they're seized—budget 3-4 hours per side if corroded. Torsion bar adjusters often frozen; penetrant soak for days before attempting. Alignment mandatory after. Upper ball joints usually need attention at same time. This is a "while you're in there" nightmare if fasteners snap.

Estimated cost: $800-1,400

Symptoms: Visible rust-through in front floor pans under carpet, Soft or rotted metal around rear spring hangers, Trunk floor corners rusted through near wheel wells, Body mounts crumbling, body-to-frame misalignment

Fix: Structural rust is the killer on these cars. Front floor pans are available as patch panels or full replacements—figure 12-20 hours for proper metal work per side. Frame rail rust requires frame-off evaluation. DIY with a welder and patience can save thousands, but rust never sleeps—it's always worse than it looks. This isn't a shade-tree fix if it's structural.

Estimated cost: $2,000-6,000

Symptoms: Hesitation on acceleration, flat spots, Black smoke, fuel smell, poor economy, Hard starting, requires pumping accelerator, Flooding, fuel leaking from bowl gaskets

Fix: Ethanol fuel eats old gaskets and destroys pot metal castings over time. Most carbs on these cars need full rebuild kits (2-3 hours) or replacement with modern Edelbrock/Holley units. Accelerator pump diaphragms fail frequently. If original, assume vacuum secondaries are stuck and power valve is blown. Budget for fuel pressure regulator if installing modern carb—original mechanical pumps run 6-7 PSI.

Estimated cost: $300-700

Typical onset: 60,000+ mi or unknown

Symptoms: Oil coating rear brake drums and backing plates, Dripping from pinion seal or axle tubes, Rear differential cover weeping at gasket, Burning oil smell from rear brakes after driving

Fix: Axle seals require pulling axles (C-clip design on 8.75" and Dana 60)—2 hours per side including brake cleanup. Pinion seal is another 2 hours and requires marking driveshaft, pinion nut torque is critical to preload. Cover gasket leaks are easy (1 hour) but often symptom of overfilled housing or clogged vent. Check gear oil for metal—posi clutches wear.

Estimated cost: $250-600

Symptoms: Intermittent no-start, cranks but won't fire, Stalling when hot, restarts when cooled down, Weak spark, missing at idle, Melted or corroded wiring at firewall connections

Fix: The dual-point or early electronic ignition systems are simple but 50-year-old wiring and corroded bulkhead connectors kill them. Ballast resistor failures strand you instantly—carry a spare (15 minutes, $12 part). Full ignition system refresh with new harness, coil, ECU (if electronic), and distributor rebuild runs 3-4 hours. Convert to later orange box electronic if still points.

Estimated cost: $200-500