1972 DODGE CORONET

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi original, or unknown on older rebuilds

Symptoms: Rattling noise from front of engine on cold start that quiets when warm, Rough idle, backfiring, difficulty starting, Check timing and find it's retarded 8-15 degrees despite distributor being correct, Metal shavings in oil pan, particularly bronze-colored from nylon cam gear teeth

Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and tensioner. Requires pulling water pump, harmonic balancer, timing cover. While you're in there, replace oil pump and front seal. 6-8 hours labor for experienced tech, 10-12 for DIY first-timer. Critical: use double-roller chain kit, not OEM single-roller replacement.

Estimated cost: $800-1,400

Typical onset: Not mileage-dependent—age and rust are the killers

Symptoms: Uneven ride height side-to-side, one corner sagging, Clunking over bumps from worn lower control arm bushings, Wandering steering, excessive play, Upper ball joints with visible play—dangerous when they separate

Fix: Full front end rebuild: upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, control arm bushings, torsion bar adjusters. Alignment mandatory afterward. The upper ball joints are load-bearing and WILL fail catastrophically—not an optional repair. 8-10 hours labor.

Estimated cost: $1,200-2,000

Symptoms: Hard starting when hot, requires excessive cranking, Stalling at idle or when coming to stops, Black smoke, fuel smell—flooding from worn needle/seat, Hesitation on acceleration, flat spots in power delivery, Thermoquad specific: warped phenolic float bowl causing massive fuel leaks

Fix: Rebuild kit with new gaskets, needle/seat, accelerator pump, and float adjustment gets most running right. Thermoquads often need replacement phenolic bowls or conversion to aluminum aftermarket. Figure 3-4 hours for experienced carb tech, or just swap to Edelbrock/Holley aftermarket for reliability. Adjustment and tuning critical.

Estimated cost: $300-700 rebuild, $400-900 aftermarket swap

Symptoms: Fuel gauge reads empty, erratic, or stuck at full, Fuel starvation under acceleration or at 1/4 tank despite fuel present, Visible rust particles in fuel filter, replacing filter every 500 miles, Fuel leaks along steel lines under body, especially at fittings, Smell of raw gas near tank after sitting

Fix: Complete fuel system overhaul common on survivors: new tank with modern ethanol-resistant sealer or replacement, sending unit, rubber hoses, steel line replacement (original rusts from inside out). Mechanical fuel pump replacement typical while you're at it. 8-12 hours depending on line corrosion and removal difficulty.

Estimated cost: $800-1,600

Symptoms: Intermittent electrical failures—lights, gauges, accessories cut out randomly, Ammeter shows wild swings or pegs one direction, Smell of burning plastic at firewall bulkhead connector, Melted/discolored plastic housing at firewall pass-through, Battery drains overnight or won't hold charge despite new battery/alternator

Fix: Bulkhead connector terminals corrode and overheat from high current draw—full charging system load passes through it. Clean and tighten all terminals, apply dielectric grease. Better solution: MAD electrical bypass (direct alternator-to-battery wire, remove ammeter from charging circuit). Prevents fires. 2-4 hours for bypass modification.

Estimated cost: $150-400

Symptoms: Transmission stays in lower gear too long, over-revving, Delayed or no downshift when flooring accelerator, Harsh, late upshifts under part throttle, Linkage disconnected, bent, or seized from corrosion

Fix: The rod-type kickdown linkage from carburetor to transmission is critical for proper shift points and trans longevity—incorrect adjustment causes clutch burn-up. Adjustment procedure is specific and must be exact. Often needs replacement if bent/corroded. 1-2 hours including adjustment and road test.

Estimated cost: $150-350

Typical onset: Not mileage-dependent—age and moisture contamination

Symptoms: Brake pedal slowly sinks to floor when holding at stop, Spongy pedal that doesn't firm up after bleeding, Brake fluid leak visible at rear of master cylinder into booster, Complete loss of braking—single circuit means total failure possible

Fix: Single-circuit master cylinders are dangerous by modern standards—internal leak means no brakes. Rebuild or replacement mandatory, strongly recommend upgrading to dual-circuit master from later B-body for safety. Includes full system bleed. 2-3 hours labor.

Estimated cost: $250-500