1968 PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA

170ci I6RWDMANUALgas
5-Year Cost of Ownership
$37,980 maintenance + known platform issues
~$7,596/yr · 630¢/mile equivalent · $31,743 maintenance + $5,537 expected platform issues
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225ci I6
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318ci V8
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340ci V8
Common Problems & Known Issues

The 1968 Barracuda is a first-gen A-body with solid bones but typical 50+ year-old mopar issues. The unibody rusts predictably, electrical gremlins are endemic, and the small-block V8s are generally bulletproof if the timing chain gets attention.

Floor Pan and Torque Box Rust-Through

Common · high severity
Symptoms: soft or cracked floor under carpet, visible daylight through floor, jack stands punching through torque boxes, seatbelt mounts loose or pulling free
Fix: Full floor pan replacement requires body-off or extensive interior removal, cutting out old metal, welding in AMD or Goodmark panels. Budget 20-30 hours for both sides plus torque boxes. Requires skilled metalwork—not a beginner job.
Estimated cost: $3,000-6,500

Timing Chain Stretch and Gear Wear (273/318/340 V8s)

Common · high severity
Typical onset: 60,000-100,000 mi
Symptoms: rough idle that worsens when warm, backfiring through carburetor, loss of power under load, metallic rattling from timing cover at startup
Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and tensioner with double-roller set. Requires water pump and harmonic balancer removal. 4-6 hours labor. Use Cloyes or Melling true roller sets—avoid cheap single-row chains.
Estimated cost: $450-850

Torsion Bar Anchor Corrosion and Failure

Occasional · high severity
Symptoms: one front corner sagging noticeably, popping sound from front suspension over bumps, steering pull to one side, visible rust through frame rail behind lower control arm
Fix: Torsion bar anchors rust out where they mount in the K-frame. Requires new anchor assembly, possible K-frame reinforcement or replacement. 8-12 hours if welding reinforcements. Some cars need entire front subframe work.
Estimated cost: $1,200-3,000

Bulkhead Connector Meltdown

Common · medium severity
Symptoms: ammeter swinging wildly, burning plastic smell in cabin, headlights dimming, electrical accessories cutting in and out, melted or discolored firewall connector
Fix: The single 10-gauge feed wire through the firewall connector can't handle modern alternator loads. Clean terminals, replace connector, or better yet bypass with MAD Electrical or similar retrofit kit. 3-5 hours including soldering and heat-shrink work.
Estimated cost: $250-600

Rear Leaf Spring Center Pin Shear

Occasional · medium severity
Typical onset: 70,000-120,000 mi
Symptoms: clunking from rear on acceleration or braking, rear axle feels like it shifts side-to-side, visible offset in spring pack, uneven tire wear on rear
Fix: Center pin breaks, letting spring leaves shift. Replace leaf springs with new or re-arched units. 4-6 hours for both sides including U-bolt replacement. Good time to upgrade to XHD or aftermarket springs.
Estimated cost: $600-1,200

Fuel Tank Rust and Sender Failure

Common · medium severity
Symptoms: fuel gauge reads empty regardless of fill level, fuel starvation or sputtering under acceleration, visible rust flakes in fuel filter, strong gas smell from trunk area
Fix: Original 18-gallon tank rusts from inside out. Drop tank (4 hours), replace with new unit and sending unit. Flush lines, replace rubber hoses and filter. Stainless tanks available but cost double.
Estimated cost: $500-900

Steering Box Wear and Play (Manual or Power)

Occasional · medium severity
Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi
Symptoms: excessive play at center—more than 2 inches at wheel rim, wandering on highway, clunking when reversing steering direction, leaking fluid from sector shaft (power steering)
Fix: Rebuild or replace steering box. Manual boxes can often be adjusted first (30 minutes), but worn boxes need rebuild kits or reman units. Power steering boxes typically replaced. 3-5 hours labor plus alignment.
Estimated cost: $400-1,000
Owner tips
  • Inspect torque boxes and frame rails with a screwdriver before buying—structural rust is the deal-killer
  • Replace timing chain as preventive maintenance at 60k if history unknown; saves you from valve-to-piston contact
  • Upgrade to electronic ignition (Mopar Performance or Pertronix) for reliability—points are finicky on these
  • Flush brake system and replace rubber flex lines every 3-5 years—originals swell internally and cause dragging
  • Undercoat religiously if driven in salt states; these A-bodies rust faster than B-bodies due to thinner metal
Buy one if the body is solid and you can wrench—mechanicals are straightforward, but rust repair costs more than the car's worth.
AI-assisted summary drawn from NHTSA recall data, our labor-times database, and platform knowledge. Not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection on a specific vehicle.
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