1968 PLYMOUTH SATELLITE

225ci I6RWDAUTOMATICgas
5-Year Cost of Ownership
$35,428 maintenance + known platform issues
~$7,086/yr · 590¢/mile equivalent · $31,743 maintenance + $2,985 expected platform issues
Compare this engine
vs
318ci V8
vs
340ci V8
vs
360ci V8
Common Problems & Known Issues

The 1968 Plymouth Satellite is a solid B-body Mopar with excellent parts availability and straightforward maintenance, but suffers from aging electrical systems, carburetor issues on original setups, and typical torque-box rust that can compromise structural integrity if neglected.

Torque Box and Rear Frame Rail Rust-Through

Common · high severity
Symptoms: Visible rust perforation behind rear wheels, Soft or crumbling metal at rear spring mounting points, Rear suspension misalignment or sagging, Clunking from rear on rough roads
Fix: Requires cutting out rotted sections and welding in patch panels or full replacement torque boxes. Expect 12-16 hours labor for proper metalwork including surface prep and painting. DIY-friendly if you can weld, but critical for safety—rear suspension mounts here.
Estimated cost: $1,800-3,200

Timing Chain Stretch and Wear (All V8s)

Common · medium severity
Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi
Symptoms: Hard starting when hot, Backfiring through carburetor, Rough idle with erratic timing, Rattling from front of engine on cold start
Fix: Replace chain, gears, and timing cover gasket. While in there, do water pump and front seals. 4-6 hours labor for 318/340, add 1-2 hours for 383 due to larger accessories. Original nylon-tooth cam gears disintegrate—go steel.
Estimated cost: $450-850

Carburetor Flooding and Accelerator Pump Failure (Carter/Holley)

Common · low severity
Symptoms: Gas smell after parking, Black smoke on acceleration, Hesitation or stumble off idle, Hard starting when warm with visible fuel dripping
Fix: Usually needs full rebuild kit with needle/seat, accelerator pump, and float adjustment. Modern ethanol fuel destroys original rubber components. 2-3 hours for rebuild or swap to modern Edelbrock. Keep original Carter for originality if restoring.
Estimated cost: $180-400

Electrical System Voltage Drop and Ammeter Bypass Failure

Common · medium severity
Symptoms: Dim headlights at idle, Ammeter pegged or not moving, Burning smell from dash, Intermittent gauge operation, Battery won't charge consistently
Fix: The factory ammeter runs full alternator current through the dash—connections corrode and overheat. Bypass with external shunt or upgrade to voltmeter. Also clean/replace bulkhead connector (melts often). 3-5 hours to do it right with new wiring.
Estimated cost: $250-600

Torsion Bar Anchor Corrosion and Adjuster Seizure

Occasional · medium severity
Symptoms: Front end rides low on one or both sides, Adjuster bolt won't turn, Clunking over bumps, Uneven tire wear on front
Fix: Adjusters rust solid in their sockets. Requires heat, penetrant, and sometimes cutting off bolt to press out anchor. If socket threads are gone, need new lower control arms. 4-6 hours per side if anchor is destroyed. Torsion bars themselves rarely fail.
Estimated cost: $400-900

Differential Pinion Seal and Axle Bearing Failure (8.75" and 8.25" Rear)

Occasional · medium severity
Typical onset: 90,000-140,000 mi
Symptoms: Gear oil dripping from pinion yoke, Howling or whining from rear, speed-dependent, Clunking on acceleration/deceleration, Hot rear end smell after highway driving
Fix: Pinion seal is 1-2 hours and cheap. Bearing noise means carrier teardown, preload reset, often new crush sleeve. 6-8 hours for full bearing job plus setup. The 8.75" is bulletproof if maintained; the 8.25" behind sixes sees more wear.
Estimated cost: $150-300 (seal) / $800-1,400 (bearings)

Brake Master Cylinder Failure and Front Drum Shoe Contamination

Occasional · high severity
Typical onset: 70,000-110,000 mi
Symptoms: Brake pedal slowly sinks to floor, Fluid loss with no visible external leak, Rear brakes lock prematurely, Spongy pedal that won't firm up after bleeding
Fix: Single-reservoir master cylinders leak internally, dumping fluid into booster or out the rear seal. Replace master, flush system, rebuild or replace wheel cylinders. If disc conversion up front, upgrade to dual-reservoir for safety. 3-4 hours total.
Estimated cost: $300-650
Owner tips
  • Inspect torque boxes and rear frame rails BEFORE buying—cosmetic rust hides structural failure underneath
  • Replace timing chain every 80,000 miles or sooner if you hear rattling—prevents expensive valve train damage
  • Upgrade ammeter to voltmeter or install bypass—prevents underdash fires common on high-mileage B-bodies
  • Use non-ethanol fuel if carbureted, or rebuild carb every 3-5 years—ethanol eats Chrysler rubber parts
  • Grease torsion bar adjusters annually and keep them moving—once seized, replacement is the only fix
Absolutely—parts are cheap, design is simple, and rust is visible before you buy; just budget $2,000-3,000 for deferred maintenance on any survivor-grade example.
AI-assisted summary drawn from NHTSA recall data, our labor-times database, and platform knowledge. Not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection on a specific vehicle.
593 jobs across 17 categories
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 50 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included. Built by the same team.
Try ShopBase →