1967 PONTIAC TEMPEST

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi original, or anytime after 50+ years of sitting

Symptoms: Slipping between first and second gear under load, No engagement in reverse or delayed engagement when cold, Burnt transmission fluid smell, dark red or brown fluid, Clunking or harsh shifts, especially into drive

Fix: Full rebuild required in most cases—clutch packs are worn, seals are hard, and modulators fail. Expect 8-12 hours labor for removal, rebuild, and reinstall. Many shops source rebuilt units on exchange.

Estimated cost: $1,800-3,200

Symptoms: Clunking when shifting from park to drive or reverse to drive, Excessive drivetrain movement visible under hood during acceleration, Vibration at idle that changes when shifting into gear

Fix: Rubber mount separates from metal bracket or cracks completely after decades. Replacement is straightforward: support transmission, unbolt old mount, install new. 1-1.5 hours labor.

Estimated cost: $120-250

Typical onset: any—age and heat cycling are the enemies

Symptoms: Oil pooling under bellhousing area or dripping from oil pan seam, Oily residue coating underside of engine and transmission, Low oil level between changes if leak is significant

Fix: Rope-style rear main seal leaks are endemic on the I6. Proper fix requires transmission removal (5-6 hours). Oil pan gasket is easier, 2-3 hours with cork gasket and RTV. Many owners live with minor seepage.

Estimated cost: $400-900 rear main; $200-400 oil pan

Typical onset: 60,000-100,000 mi or after overheating episodes

Symptoms: Coolant seepage at intake valley or front/rear of manifold, Rough idle or vacuum leak symptoms—high idle, lean condition, Coolant mixing with oil (milky dipstick) in severe cases, White smoke from exhaust on startup if coolant enters cylinders

Fix: Cast-iron intake can warp from thermal stress. Gasket set plus machining/straightening if needed. 4-6 hours labor—drain coolant, remove carburetor/linkage, pull manifold, resurface if warped, reassemble with proper torque sequence.

Estimated cost: $500-1,200

Symptoms: Hard starting or stalling after engine warms up, Loss of fuel pressure—engine dies under load or at highway speed, Raw fuel smell if diaphragm ruptures and fuel leaks externally, Ticking or rattling from fuel pump area if pushrod is worn

Fix: Mechanical pump driven by eccentric on camshaft via pushrod. Diaphragm hardens or pushrod wears out of spec. Replace pump and inspect pushrod; 1-2 hours labor. Check cam lobe for wear if pushrod is badly worn.

Estimated cost: $150-350

Symptoms: Rough idle, stalling, or hesitation on acceleration, Black smoke from exhaust—overly rich condition, Fuel leaks from carb base or accelerator pump area, Hard starting, especially when hot—percolation from heat soak

Fix: Ethanol fuel degrades old gaskets, needles, and seats. Full rebuild kit with floats, needles, gaskets, and accelerator pump. 2-4 hours depending on carburetor type and condition. Clean all passages, reset float levels.

Estimated cost: $300-650

Symptoms: Dim headlights at idle, brightening with RPM (generator models), Battery not charging—warning light stays on or voltmeter shows discharge, Burnt wiring smell from ammeter or bulkhead connector, Intermittent electrical issues—gauges flicker, accessories cut out

Fix: Early '67s may still have generators; most have alternators. Brushes wear, voltage regulators fail, and ammeter circuits overheat. Upgrade to modern alternator recommended. Repair or replace: 2-3 hours including testing and wiring inspection.

Estimated cost: $250-600