brakes

Brake Hose - Front

for 1970 AMC Rebel Machine 390ci V8 · RWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
13
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replacement of the front brake hose(s) on a 1970 AMC Rebel Machine to restore safe brake hydraulic function and prevent brake failure.

Warnings

⚠️Brake system failure can cause complete loss of braking ability resulting in collision, injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have a professional mechanic perform this work.
⚠️Never reuse old brake fluid. Contaminated or air-laden brake fluid will cause brake failure.
⚠️Never allow brake fluid reservoir to run empty during bleeding or air will enter the system.
Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and toxic. Wear gloves and eye protection. Clean spills immediately with water.
Do not drive the vehicle until the brake system is properly bled and verified to be functioning correctly.
ℹ️The 1970 AMC Rebel Machine uses a single master cylinder system. Brake bleeding requires two people or a pressure bleeder.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • DOT 3 brake fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake firmly
  2. Chock rear wheels securely front and back
  3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
  5. Remove front wheels completely
  6. Inspect brake hoses for cracks, bulging, chafing, or fluid leakage to confirm replacement is needed
  7. Using turkey baster or fluid extractor, remove approximately half the brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow during hose removal
  8. If fittings are rusty, apply penetrating oil to hose mounting bracket and line fittings, allow to soak 15-20 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake line from hose at frame bracket
    Locate where the rubber brake hose connects to the steel brake line at the frame bracket. Using the appropriate flare nut wrench (typically 3/8" or 7/16"), carefully loosen and remove the steel brake line fitting from the brake hose. Position a catch pan below to collect dripping brake fluid. Do not twist the brake line itself; hold the hose fitting stationary with another wrench if necessary.
  2. 2
    Remove hose retaining clip from frame bracket
    The brake hose is secured to the frame bracket with a horseshoe-shaped retaining clip. Using pliers or a small flat screwdriver, carefully pry or pull the retaining clip from the bracket. Note the orientation of the clip for reinstallation. The brake hose should now be free to rotate and move at the frame bracket.
  3. 3
    Disconnect hose from wheel cylinder or caliper
    At the wheel end, the brake hose connects to either the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or caliper with a threaded fitting. Use the appropriate wrench to loosen and remove this connection. On some applications this may be a banjo bolt requiring a box-end wrench. Brake fluid will drain from the hose and component. Allow fluid to drain into catch pan.
  4. 4
    Remove old brake hose
    Once both ends are disconnected, remove the brake hose completely from the vehicle. Inspect the frame bracket and mounting points for corrosion or damage. If the bracket is rusted or damaged, it must be replaced or repaired before installing the new hose.
  5. 5
    Prepare new brake hose for installation
    Remove new brake hose from packaging and verify it matches the original in length and fitting type. If the hose uses banjo fittings, ensure new copper crush washers are ready (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Do not reuse old washers. Inspect the hose routing path to ensure proper clearance from suspension components, steering linkage, and tire throughout full range of motion.
  6. 6
    Install new hose at wheel cylinder or caliper
    Thread the new brake hose into the wheel cylinder or caliper fitting. If using a banjo bolt, position a new copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting. Hand-tighten first to ensure threads engage properly. Once fully seated by hand, tighten firmly with wrench. Do not over-tighten as this can strip the aluminum wheel cylinder or caliper threads.
  7. 7
    Install hose into frame bracket
    Route the brake hose through the frame bracket, ensuring the hose is not twisted. The hose should hang naturally without tension or sharp bends. Position the hose so the mounting tab on the hose body seats properly in the frame bracket slot. Install the retaining clip to secure the hose in the bracket.
  8. 8
    Connect steel brake line to new hose
    Thread the steel brake line fitting into the new brake hose at the frame bracket. Start the fitting by hand to ensure proper thread engagement and prevent cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use the flare nut wrench to tighten securely. Do not over-tighten as this can damage the flare fitting. The connection should be snug and leak-free.
  9. 9
    Verify hose routing and clearance
    With the hose installed, turn the steering wheel full lock to full lock (or have an assistant do so) while observing the brake hose. Verify the hose has adequate clearance from the tire, suspension components, and steering linkage at all positions. The hose should not be stretched tight or kinked at any point. Adjust routing or bracket position if necessary.
  10. 10
    Repeat for opposite side
    If replacing both front brake hoses, repeat steps 1 through 9 for the opposite side of the vehicle. Ensure both hoses are routed identically and have proper clearance.
  11. 11
    Refill master cylinder reservoir
    Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. Never reuse old brake fluid or use fluid from a previously opened container as it absorbs moisture and contaminates easily.
  12. 12
    Bleed brake system
    Bleed the front brake circuit completely to remove all air introduced during hose replacement. Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (typically right front, then left front). Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and hold pressure, then crack open the bleeder screw at the wheel cylinder or caliper while fluid flows into the catch tubing. Close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid. Monitor master cylinder level constantly and refill as needed to prevent introducing more air.
  13. 13
    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until wheels contact the ground but jack stands still support most of the weight. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

  1. Double-check all brake line connections are tight and properly seated
  2. Verify master cylinder reservoir is filled to proper level with fresh brake fluid
  3. Check for any brake fluid leaks at all connection points
  4. Ensure retaining clips are fully seated in frame brackets
  5. Confirm steering and suspension have full range of motion without hose interference

Verification

  • With engine off, pump brake pedal several times. Pedal should become firm and hold pressure without slowly sinking
  • Start engine (if power brakes equipped) and verify pedal drops slightly but remains firm
  • Inspect all brake hose connections for leaks while assistant applies firm brake pedal pressure
  • Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area, testing brakes at increasing speeds
  • Verify brake pedal feel is firm and responsive with no sponginess indicating air in system
  • After test drive, re-inspect all connections for signs of leakage
  • If pedal feels soft or spongy, re-bleed the brake system until firm pedal is achieved
  • Have brake system professionally inspected if any doubt exists about proper function
🔧Stuck on this brake hose - front? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR AMC within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
🔓 LIBERATED FOREVER
The 1970 AMC Rebel Machine 390ci V8 repair data is free for every DIYer and shop on earth, permanently, because Ronald Hackleman, Danville, IN paid $99 to unlock it.
Mitchell1 charges $169/mo for this. ALLDATAdiy charges $30/yr per vehicle. Open Labor Project is free permanently, because of community sponsors like Ronald.
Free another vehicle →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →