This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the front wheel spindle (knuckle) assembly on a 1970 AMC Rebel Machine, including bearing and brake component disassembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front spindle/knuckle assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Inner wheel bearing race × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Outer wheel bearing race × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Wheel bearing grease seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pins (assorted) × 4 — 1/8 inch and 3/16 inch
• Wheel bearing grease × 1 — High-temperature wheel bearing grease
• Brake dust shield (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-specified lift point
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed under frame rails
6. Remove front wheel and tire assembly completely
7. Spray all fasteners to be removed with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-20 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper
   Using a C-clamp, compress the brake caliper piston slightly to relieve pressure. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts from the back side of the spindle. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with wire or a bungee cord attached to the suspension or frame. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose as this can damage the hose internally.
2. 2

   Remove brake rotor and dust cap
   Remove the dust cap from the center of the hub using a flat screwdriver or pry tool. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle nut and discard. Remove the castellated spindle nut and washer. Grasp the brake rotor firmly and pull it straight off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will come out with the rotor. Place the rotor with bearing in a clean area. If rotor is stuck, tap gently from behind with a rubber mallet.
3. 3

   Remove inner bearing and grease seal
   Using the grease seal puller or a suitable pry tool, carefully remove the inner grease seal from the back of the rotor hub. The inner wheel bearing will be exposed behind the seal. Remove the inner bearing and set aside with the outer bearing. Inspect both bearings and races for pitting, scoring, or discoloration indicating overheating. Clean bearings thoroughly with solvent if reusing.
4. 4

   Remove brake dust shield
   Locate the brake dust shield bolted to the spindle assembly. Remove the three or four bolts securing the dust shield to the spindle using appropriate socket or wrench. Remove the dust shield and set aside. Inspect shield for damage or excessive rust; replace if compromised.
5. 5

   Disconnect tie rod end
   Locate the tie rod end connection at the spindle steering arm. Remove the castle nut securing the tie rod end to the spindle arm and remove the cotter pin. Use the tie rod end puller to separate the tie rod end taper from the spindle arm. Do not hit the tie rod end with a hammer as this can damage the threads. Once separated, move the tie rod end out of the way.
6. 6

   Support the spindle assembly
   Position a floor jack or suitable support under the lower control arm near the ball joint to support the weight of the spindle and control arm assembly. Raise the jack just enough to take the load, but do not lift the vehicle. This prevents the assembly from falling when the ball joints are separated.
7. 7

   Disconnect upper ball joint
   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the upper ball joint stud where it passes through the top of the spindle. Use the ball joint separator tool to break the taper between the ball joint stud and the spindle. Apply steady pressure with the separator; the joint should pop free. If using a pickle fork, be aware this may damage the ball joint boot and require ball joint replacement.
8. 8

   Disconnect lower ball joint
   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint stud at the bottom of the spindle. Use the ball joint separator to break the taper between the lower ball joint stud and the spindle. With both ball joints disconnected, carefully lower the support jack and guide the spindle assembly away from the control arms. Remove the spindle from the vehicle.
9. 9

   Inspect and prepare new spindle
   With the old spindle removed, inspect the ball joint tapers in the new spindle for any damage or debris. Clean all mating surfaces with a wire brush and brake cleaner. If reusing the dust shield, clean it thoroughly. Inspect the bearing races in the rotor hub; if worn or pitted, drive out the old races and install new races using a brass drift and hammer, ensuring they seat fully and squarely in the hub.
10. 10

    Install spindle onto ball joints
    Raise the lower control arm with the floor jack to bring the ball joint studs into approximate alignment with the spindle. Guide the new spindle onto both the upper and lower ball joint studs, ensuring the steering arm is positioned correctly toward the front of the vehicle. Thread the castle nuts onto both ball joint studs hand-tight. Torque ball joint nuts to manufacturer specification (typically 75-90 ft-lbs upper, 90-110 ft-lbs lower, but verify in service manual). Align slots in castle nuts with cotter pin holes and install new cotter pins, bending ends to secure.
11. 11

    Reconnect tie rod end
    Insert the tie rod end stud into the spindle steering arm. Thread the castle nut onto the stud and torque to specification (typically 35-45 ft-lbs, but verify in service manual). Align the castle nut slots with the cotter pin hole and install a new cotter pin, spreading the ends to lock in place.
12. 12

    Install brake dust shield
    Position the brake dust shield onto the spindle and align the mounting holes. Install the dust shield mounting bolts and tighten securely. Ensure the shield does not contact any rotating components and provides adequate clearance for the brake rotor.
13. 13

    Pack bearings and install rotor
    Pack both the inner and outer wheel bearings completely with high-temperature wheel bearing grease, working grease into all rollers. Install the inner bearing into the inner race of the rotor hub. Install a new grease seal by carefully tapping it into place with a seal driver or suitable socket, ensuring it seats squarely and flush. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle shaft. Carefully slide the rotor and hub assembly onto the spindle, being careful not to damage the new grease seal. Install the outer bearing onto the spindle, followed by the washer and spindle nut.
14. 14

    Adjust wheel bearings
    Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the rotor forward to seat the bearings, torquing to 12 ft-lbs. Then back the nut off 1/4 turn (90 degrees) and retighten finger-tight only. The rotor should spin freely with slight drag. There should be 0.001-0.005 inches of endplay when pushing/pulling the rotor. Align the spindle nut slots with the cotter pin hole in the spindle, backing off slightly if needed (never tighten beyond finger-tight). Install new cotter pin and bend ends to secure. Install the dust cap by tapping gently into place.
15. 15

    Install brake caliper
    Remove the wire or support holding the brake caliper. Clean the caliper mounting surfaces and apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the caliper bolt threads (avoid getting any on brake components). Position the caliper over the rotor and align the mounting holes. Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque to specification (typically 30-35 ft-lbs, but verify in service manual). Pump the brake pedal several times to reseat the caliper piston against the pads before driving.

Reassembly

1. Install wheel and tire assembly, threading lug nuts by hand initially to avoid cross-threading
2. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts ground to prevent wheel rotation
3. Torque wheel lug nuts to 75-90 ft-lbs in a star pattern
4. Lower vehicle completely and remove jack stands
5. Double-check all fasteners for proper torque and cotter pin installation

Verification

• Start engine and pump brake pedal to verify firm pedal feel with no sponginess
• With vehicle still supported, spin the wheel by hand to verify no binding or unusual noise from bearings
• Grasp tire at top and bottom and attempt to rock it to check for excessive bearing play (minimal movement is acceptable)
• Visually inspect all connection points to verify cotter pins are installed and spread properly
• Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area, checking for pulling, vibration, or unusual noises
• After test drive, recheck all fastener torques and verify no fluid leaks
• Have front end alignment checked and adjusted as spindle replacement affects camber and caster settings

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