steering
Tie Rod Assembly
for 1970 AMC Rebel Machine 390ci V8 · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
14
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace outer and/or inner tie rod ends to restore steering linkage integrity and correct alignment issues on the 1970 AMC Rebel Machine.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands on solid, level ground.
⚠Tie rod removal requires significant force. Ensure the vehicle is stable and will not shift during tie rod separation.
⚠Tie rod adjustment affects wheel alignment. Have the vehicle aligned professionally after this repair.
ℹ️Mark or measure the position of tie rod ends before removal to maintain approximate toe setting.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Tie rod end puller or pickle forkEssential
Socket set (1/2 inch and 3/4 inch)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Grease gun with chassis greaseEssential
Tape measure or stringEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Outer tie rod end (driver side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Outer tie rod end (passenger side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Inner tie rod end (driver side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Inner tie rod end (passenger side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Castle nut for tie rod end × 4 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 4 — 1/8 inch diameter
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and set parking brake firmly
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at frame cross member or subframe
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at manufacturer-recommended jacking points
- Remove front wheels completely
- Spray all tie rod fasteners and threads with penetrating oil and allow 15-20 minutes to soak
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod position for referenceBefore removing any components, count and record the number of exposed threads on the outer tie rod end where it threads into the adjuster sleeve or inner tie rod. Alternatively, measure the overall length from the center of the inner tie rod ball joint to the center of the outer tie rod ball joint. Mark the tie rod adjuster sleeve position with paint or a scribe relative to both inner and outer tie rods. This preserves approximate toe setting.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end cotter pin and castle nutLocate the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut using pliers. Remove the castle nut using a 3/4 inch socket or appropriately sized wrench. Do not fully remove the nut yet - leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and prevent the tie rod from suddenly releasing.
- 3Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckleUsing a tie rod end puller or pickle fork, separate the tie rod end taper from the steering knuckle. Position the puller jaws around the tie rod housing and apply pressure. If using a pickle fork, tap it between the knuckle and tie rod housing with a hammer until the taper breaks free. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely and remove the outer tie rod end from the knuckle. Note: Using a pickle fork will likely damage the tie rod boot, acceptable only if replacing the tie rod.
- 4Remove outer tie rod end from adjuster sleeveLocate the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts or lock nuts on the tie rod adjuster sleeve. Loosen these fasteners but do not remove them completely. Using an adjustable wrench on the flats of the outer tie rod end, unscrew it from the adjuster sleeve while counting the turns. Record the number of turns for reference during reassembly. Remove the outer tie rod end completely.
- 5Remove inner tie rod end from center linkIf replacing the inner tie rod, locate where it connects to the steering center link (relay rod). Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut at this connection. Remove or loosen the castle nut, leaving it threaded on a few turns. Use the tie rod puller to separate the inner tie rod taper from the center link. Once separated, remove the castle nut and withdraw the inner tie rod end from the center link.
- 6Remove adjuster sleeve and inner tie rod assemblyWith both ends disconnected, remove the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts completely. Slide the adjuster sleeve off the inner tie rod. Remove the complete inner tie rod assembly if being replaced. Clean the threads on the center link and steering knuckle mounting points with a wire brush to remove corrosion and debris.
- 7Install new inner tie rod endIf the inner tie rod was removed, install the new inner tie rod end into the center link taper. Install a new castle nut and tighten firmly to seat the taper properly. Continue tightening to the next castle slot that aligns with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs to secure. Apply chassis grease to the grease fitting if equipped.
- 8Install adjuster sleeve and outer tie rod endSlide the adjuster sleeve onto the inner tie rod end, aligning it with your reference marks. Thread the new outer tie rod end into the adjuster sleeve the same number of turns that were counted during removal, or until the overall length matches your initial measurement. Do not tighten the adjuster sleeve clamps yet.
- 9Connect outer tie rod end to steering knuckleInsert the outer tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install a new castle nut and tighten firmly to properly seat the taper and eliminate any play. Continue tightening to the next castle slot that aligns with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud, then bend the legs securely to lock the nut in place.
- 10Adjust toe setting and secure adjuster sleeveVerify that the tie rod assembly length matches your original measurements. Make minor adjustments by turning the adjuster sleeve as needed. Once satisfied with the approximate toe setting, tighten the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts securely. Ensure the clamp openings are positioned away from the tie rod end boots to prevent interference. Apply chassis grease to all grease fittings using a grease gun until fresh grease appears at the boot seals.
- 11Repeat procedure for opposite sidePerform steps 1 through 10 for the opposite side tie rod assembly, maintaining the same measurement references and procedures to ensure both sides have similar toe settings.
Reassembly
- Reinstall front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern
- Lower vehicle from jack stands to the ground
- Torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer specification in a star pattern with vehicle weight on wheels
- Remove jack and jack stands, then remove wheel chocks
Verification
- Start engine and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock to verify smooth operation without binding or noise
- Check that all tie rod end castle nuts are tight and cotter pins are properly installed and bent
- Verify no excessive play exists in tie rod ends by attempting to move them by hand with wheels on ground
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to confirm steering response
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible, as the rough toe setting will not provide proper tire wear or handling characteristics