steering
Tie Rod End - Inner
for 1970 AMC Rebel Machine 390ci V8 · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.5 h
Tools
14
Steps
15
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the inner tie rod end on a 1970 AMC Rebel Machine to restore proper steering linkage integrity and alignment capability.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Removing inner tie rods will affect wheel alignment. A professional alignment is required after this repair.
⚠The steering linkage is under load when the wheels are on the ground. Loosening components with wheels loaded can cause sudden movement.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Lug wrench or 3/4" socketEssential
Adjustable wrench or large pliersEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
Tape measure or rulerEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Inner tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification for AMC Rebel
- Outer tie rod end (if damaged during removal) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Tie rod adjusting sleeve clamp bolts × 2 — Replace if corroded
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Mark the current position of the outer tie rod end on the threads of the inner tie rod with paint or tape, and measure the exposed thread length for reference during reassembly
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-specified jacking point
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed under the frame rails
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced
Procedure
- 1Apply penetrating oil to tie rod connectionsSpray penetrating oil liberally on the outer tie rod castle nut, the tie rod adjusting sleeve clamp bolts, and the inner tie rod connection at the steering rack or center link. Allow to soak for 10-15 minutes if components appear rusty or corroded.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end from steering knuckleRemove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Use a tie rod end separator or pickle fork to separate the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle. Strike the separator tool sharply with a hammer to break the taper free. Note: This may damage the outer tie rod boot, so have a replacement available if needed.
- 3Loosen tie rod adjusting sleeve clampsLocate the adjusting sleeve that connects the inner and outer tie rod ends. Remove or loosen both clamp bolts on the adjusting sleeve. Do not remove the sleeve yet. The sleeve orientation should be marked for reference, noting the position of clamps relative to the front/rear of the vehicle.
- 4Separate outer tie rod from inner tie rodUsing the reference marks made during preparation, count the number of turns as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the adjusting sleeve. Record this number. Remove the outer tie rod end completely and set aside if reusing.
- 5Access the inner tie rod connectionLocate where the inner tie rod connects to the steering rack or center link (depending on steering system configuration). On 1970 Rebel models with center link steering, the inner tie rod connects to the center link with a threaded ball socket. Clean the connection area with a wire brush.
- 6Remove inner tie rod boot or bellowsIf equipped with a rubber boot covering the inner tie rod connection, loosen or cut the boot clamps and slide the boot away from the connection point to expose the inner tie rod jam nut or mounting hardware. Inspect the boot for damage; replace if torn.
- 7Remove the inner tie rod endUsing an inner tie rod removal tool (crow's foot style wrench), loosen the inner tie rod from the steering rack or center link. The tool fits between the flats on the tie rod body. Turn counterclockwise to remove. If a jam nut is present, loosen it first with an adjustable wrench while holding the tie rod stationary. Remove the inner tie rod assembly completely.
- 8Inspect steering componentsExamine the threads on the steering rack or center link for damage, stripped threads, or excessive wear. Check the adjusting sleeve for cracks or damage. Inspect the outer tie rod end for excessive play or torn boots. Replace any damaged components before proceeding.
- 9Install new inner tie rod endThread the new inner tie rod end into the steering rack or center link by hand until snug. Use the inner tie rod removal tool to tighten the inner tie rod securely. Apply thread-locking compound if specified by the manufacturer. Tighten firmly; typical specification is 70-80 ft-lbs, but verify with manufacturer data as no torque spec is provided in database.
- 10Reinstall tie rod bootSlide the rubber boot back over the inner tie rod connection, ensuring it seats properly in the grooves. Install new boot clamps and tighten securely to prevent dirt and moisture entry. Ensure the boot is not twisted or kinked.
- 11Attach adjusting sleeve to inner tie rodThread the adjusting sleeve onto the new inner tie rod end to approximately the same position as the old assembly, using your measurements and marks as reference. Leave the sleeve clamps loose for now.
- 12Reinstall outer tie rod endThread the outer tie rod end back into the adjusting sleeve, using the turn count recorded during disassembly to achieve approximately the same position. This will get the toe setting close to its original position. Insert the outer tie rod taper into the steering knuckle hole.
- 13Secure outer tie rod to steering knuckleInstall the castle nut onto the outer tie rod stud and tighten to specification (typically 35-40 ft-lbs for this application). Align the castle nut slots with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.
- 14Adjust and tighten sleeve clampsVerify that the adjusting sleeve clamps are positioned correctly with openings toward the rear or front as noted during disassembly. Tighten both clamp bolts securely (typically 15-20 ft-lbs). Ensure the clamps grip both the inner and outer tie rod threads properly.
- 15Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque lug nuts to 75-85 ft-lbs in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.
Reassembly
- Double-check that all fasteners are properly torqued, especially the outer tie rod castle nut and lug nuts
- Verify that the cotter pin is properly installed and secured on the outer tie rod castle nut
- Ensure the tie rod boot is properly seated and clamped to prevent contamination
Verification
- With vehicle on ground, turn steering wheel lock-to-lock and verify smooth operation with no binding or unusual noises
- Visually inspect all connections to ensure nothing is loose or leaking
- Verify that the outer tie rod castle nut cotter pin is secure
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to check for pulling or wandering; steering should feel stable
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible, as toe and possibly other alignment angles will be affected by this repair