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steering

Tie Rod End - Outer

for 2009 Aston Martin DB9 6.0L V12 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.2 h
Tools
13
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2009 Aston Martin DB9, including disconnection from the steering knuckle and separation from the inner tie rod assembly.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for vehicle weight (minimum 1800 kg per side). Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Tie rod end separation tools apply significant force and can cause the tool or component to release suddenly. Wear safety glasses and keep hands clear of pinch points.
⚠Removing the outer tie rod end will alter wheel alignment. A professional four-wheel alignment is required after this repair.
ℹ️This procedure covers one side only. If replacing both outer tie rod ends, repeat for the opposite side.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
  2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
  3. Loosen wheel lug nuts on the side being serviced while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
  4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-specified jacking point
  5. Support vehicle on jack stands placed at reinforced frame rails
  6. Remove wheel completely and set aside

Procedure

  1. 1
    Access and inspect outer tie rod end
    Locate the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. The ball stud will be secured with a retaining nut (verify whether it is a castle nut with cotter pin or a prevailing-torque lock nut per OEM data). Inspect the rubber dust boot for damage. Turn the steering wheel if necessary to improve access to the tie rod end (wheel can be turned with ignition off).
  2. 2
    Remove cotter pin and castle nut
    If the ball stud uses a castle nut with cotter pin, straighten the cotter pin legs using pliers and pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut. If the ball stud uses a prevailing-torque lock nut, no cotter pin is present and this step does not apply. If corroded, cut the cotter pin and extract the remnants. Use a wrench to remove the ball stud retaining nut from the tie rod end ball stud. Note the nut type (castle nut with cotter pin or prevailing-torque lock nut) and set it aside; a new nut (and cotter pin if applicable) should be used with the new tie rod end.
    ⚠Do not attempt to reuse the cotter pin. Always install a new cotter pin during reassembly.
  3. 3
    Mark tie rod position for alignment reference
    Before loosening the jam nut, use a marker or paint pen to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Make a reference line across both components. Additionally, count and record the number of exposed threads between the outer tie rod end and the jam nut. This will provide a baseline for approximate alignment during reinstallation.
    ℹ️These marks are reference only and do not substitute for professional alignment, but will minimize toe change and allow the vehicle to be driven safely to an alignment facility.
  4. 4
    Loosen jam nut
    Locate the jam nut (lock nut) on the inner tie rod where the outer tie rod end threads onto it. This nut locks the outer tie rod end in position. Use two wrenches: one to hold the outer tie rod end body and another to loosen the jam nut. Break the jam nut free but do not remove it completely yet. If the jam nut is seized, apply penetrating lubricant and allow it to soak.
  5. 5
    Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
    Position a tie rod end separator (ball joint fork or pickle fork style) between the steering knuckle and the tie rod end ball joint. Strike the separator tool with a hammer to break the taper fit, or use a screw-type separator to apply pressure until the ball stud releases from the knuckle. Once separated, the outer tie rod end ball stud will drop free from the knuckle bore.
    ⚠The tie rod end may release suddenly when the taper breaks. Support the component and keep hands clear.
    ℹ️Aggressive separation methods (pickle fork) will damage the dust boot. This is acceptable since the outer tie rod end is being replaced.
  6. 6
    Remove outer tie rod end from inner tie rod
    With the ball stud separated from the knuckle, unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod assembly by turning it counterclockwise. Count the number of full rotations required for removal and record this number as an additional reference for installation. Remove the jam nut from the old outer tie rod end.
  7. 7
    Clean inner tie rod threads
    Use a wire brush to clean the threads on the inner tie rod where the outer tie rod end mounts. Remove any rust, road debris, or old thread locking compound. Inspect the threads for damage. Apply a light coat of penetrating lubricant or anti-seize to the cleaned threads to prevent future seizure (avoid getting lubricant on the jam nut seating area).
  8. 8
    Install new outer tie rod end
    Thread the jam nut onto the inner tie rod first, positioning it approximately where it was on the old tie rod end. Apply a small amount of medium-strength thread locking compound to the inner tie rod threads. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod clockwise, using the rotation count and alignment marks from removal as a guide. Position the outer tie rod end to match the original marks as closely as possible.
    ℹ️Do not fully tighten the jam nut yet. It will be torqued after the tie rod end is secured to the knuckle and alignment reference is confirmed.
  9. 9
    Install tie rod end into steering knuckle
    Insert the ball stud of the new outer tie rod end into the tapered bore in the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud is fully seated. Thread the new castle nut onto the ball stud by hand until it contacts the knuckle.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut48 Nm (35 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Torque castle nut and install cotter pin
    Torque the tie rod end ball stud nut to the Aston Martin OEM-specified value (verify against factory service data before final torque). After reaching final torque, check the alignment of the castle nut slots with the hole in the ball stud. If the slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten the nut further (do not loosen) until the next slot aligns. Maximum additional tightening should not exceed 1/6 turn (60 degrees). Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud, then bend the legs of the cotter pin outward to secure it. Note: Torque the tie rod end castle nut to the Aston Martin DB9 OEM-specified value (verify against factory service data). Note: Torque the tie rod end castle nut to the OEM-specified value (verify against factory service documentation for the 2009 DB9). Note: Torque wrench (covering at least 20-200 Nm range to accommodate ball stud nut, jam nut, and ~150 Nm lug bolt torque)
    ⚠Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. Only tighten further if needed.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut48 Nm (35 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Tighten jam nut
    Using two wrenches (one holding the outer tie rod end body to prevent it from rotating), torque the jam nut to the Aston Martin DB9 OEM-specified value (verify against factory service data). This locks the outer tie rod end in position on the inner tie rod. Verify that the outer tie rod end did not rotate during jam nut tightening by checking your alignment marks. Note: torque the jam nut to the Aston Martin OEM-specified value (verify against factory service data). Note: torque the jam nut to the OEM-specified value (verify against factory service documentation for the 2009 DB9)
    ℹ️Hold the outer tie rod end firmly while torquing the jam nut to prevent changing the toe setting.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod Jam Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Position the wheel onto the hub, align the bolt holes, and thread all wheel bolts by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern until the wheel is snug against the hub but not fully torqued. Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. With the vehicle weight on the wheels, torque the lug nuts to the Aston Martin DB9 OEM-specified value (verify against factory service data, typically higher than 89 Nm) in a star pattern. Note: With the vehicle weight on the wheels, torque the lug bolts/nuts to the Aston Martin OEM-specified value (verify against factory service data for the 2009 DB9 wheel bolt torque specification) in a star pattern. Note: torque the lug nuts to the OEM-specified value (verify against factory documentation; DB9 wheel bolt torque is typically around 150 Nm / 110 lb-ft) in a star pattern
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts89 Nm (66 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reassembly is covered in the installation steps above
  2. Ensure the new cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent castle nut loosening
  3. Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification before operating the vehicle

Verification

  • Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to verify no binding or unusual noises from the tie rod assembly
  • Perform a test drive at low speed in a safe area and verify steering response is normal with no pulling to one side (minor pulling is expected until alignment is performed)
  • Visually inspect the tie rod end connection to the knuckle and verify the cotter pin is secure
  • Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after repair
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