suspension
Trailing Arm Bushing
for 2009 Aston Martin DB9 6.0L V12 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the rear trailing arm bushings on a 2009 Aston Martin DB9, requiring removal of the trailing arm assembly to press out worn bushings and install new ones.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use properly rated jack stands on solid lifting points.
⚠Suspension components are under load. Control arm and trailing arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels to avoid preloading bushings in the wrong position.
⚠The trailing arm is heavy and awkward. Have an assistant or use a transmission jack to support it during removal.
ℹ️This procedure requires a four-wheel alignment after completion.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torx driver set (T25-T50)Essential
E-Torx socket set (E10-E18)Essential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
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Parts
- Trailing arm bushing kit (inner and outer) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Trailing arm mounting hardware kit (if corroded) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-approved jacking points
- Remove rear wheels
- Spray all trailing arm mounting fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-20 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove rear wheel speed sensorLocate the ABS wheel speed sensor mounted to the rear upright/knuckle assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the locking tab. Remove the single mounting fastener securing the sensor bracket (confirm fastener drive type against OEM documentation). Carefully pull the sensor from its bore and secure it out of the way with zip ties or wire to prevent damage during trailing arm removal. Note: Remove the single mounting fastener securing the sensor bracket (verify fastener type — commonly a Torx or hex head on this platform). Note: Remove the mounting fastener securing the sensor bracket (verify the exact fastener type and count against the Aston Martin workshop manual).
- 2Disconnect sway bar end linkLocate the rear sway bar end link connection to the trailing arm or lower control arm. Hold the ball stud shaft with an Allen key to prevent rotation. Remove the upper nut connecting the end link to the chassis or arm. Swing the end link out of the way or support it with wire.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 3Support trailing armPosition a floor jack with a rubber-faced pad under a reinforced point of the trailing arm near the hub/bushing boss (avoid loading the thin cast-aluminum midspan) to support the weight of the arm and take load off the mounting points. Raise the jack just enough to compress the suspension slightly and stabilize the arm.
- 4Remove trailing arm-to-hub mounting boltLocate the large through-bolt connecting the trailing arm to the rear hub/upright assembly at the outboard end. Verify the exact fastener type and size against the Aston Martin DB9 workshop manual before beginning — it may be a hex, Torx, or E-Torx head. Use a breaker bar to loosen and remove the bolt and any washers. Note the orientation of washers and spacers for reassembly. The trailing arm will now pivot on its inboard mounts only. Note: Confirm the fastener type before proceeding (it may be a standard hex-head bolt and nut rather than E-Torx/Torx on this platform). Note: The fastener type and size must be confirmed against the Aston Martin workshop manual before starting (likely a hex-head or Torx bolt). Note: Fastener type and size to be confirmed against Aston Martin DB9 workshop manual (do not assume E-Torx)
- 5Remove inboard trailing arm mounting boltsLocate the inboard mounting bolt(s) securing the trailing arm to the subframe or chassis at the inboard end (verify exact count and configuration — single pivot with one bolt or two separate pivot points — against the Aston Martin DB9 workshop manual). These pass through the bushings that are being replaced. Remove both bolts while supporting the trailing arm with the floor jack. Lower the jack slowly and guide the trailing arm down and rearward out of the vehicle. Have an assistant help control the arm as it is heavy and awkward.
- 6Inspect trailing arm and bushing boresWith the trailing arm removed, clean the bushing mounting area with a wire brush. Inspect the metal bores for cracks, elongation, or damage. Check that the bushing outer shells are firmly bonded in place or that the old bushings are ready for removal. Inspect the arm for any structural damage or corrosion that would require replacement of the entire arm.
- 7Press out old bushingsUsing a hydraulic press and appropriately sized bushing removal drifts or adapters, press out the old bushings from the trailing arm. Apply steady pressure and ensure the drift is centered on the bushing outer shell to avoid damaging the bore. If the bushing is bonded, you may need to use a reciprocating saw to cut the rubber portion and collapse the shell, or heat the area carefully with a torch to break the bond. Remove both bushings from the trailing arm (verify exact bushing locations and count against OEM documentation for the 2009 DB9).
- 8Clean bushing boresThoroughly clean the bushing bores in the trailing arm with a wire brush, removing all rust, old rubber remnants, and debris. Inspect the bore surfaces again for damage. Apply a light coat of soapy water or bushing installation lubricant to the bores to ease installation of the new bushings. Do not use petroleum-based lubricants as they can degrade rubber.
- 9Press in new bushingsPosition the new trailing arm bushings in their respective bores, ensuring correct orientation (note any offset or directional markings on the bushings). Using the hydraulic press and correctly sized installation drifts that contact only the outer shell of the bushing, press the new bushings into place until they are fully seated and flush with the trailing arm mounting surfaces. Verify that both bushings are centered and seated evenly.
- 10Reinstall trailing arm to chassisWith assistance or using a transmission jack, position the trailing arm back into place with the inboard end aligned to the subframe mounting points. Insert the inboard mounting bolts through the new bushings and thread them into the subframe by hand. Do not torque these bolts yet; leave them finger-tight. The bolts must be torqued with the vehicle at ride height to avoid preloading the bushings.
- 11Reconnect trailing arm to hubRaise the floor jack under the trailing arm to align the outboard end with the hub/upright mounting point. Install the through-bolt with any washers and spacers in their original orientation. Thread the bolt by hand, then snug it down with a wrench but do not torque yet. This will also be torqued at ride height.
- 12Reconnect sway bar end linkPosition the sway bar end link back into its mounting location. Install the mounting nut while holding the ball stud shaft with an Allen key to prevent rotation. Torque to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall wheel speed sensorClean the wheel speed sensor tip and its bore in the hub/upright with a clean cloth. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize or sensor-safe grease to the sensor body (not the tip). Insert the sensor into its bore and install the mounting fastener, tightening securely. Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
- 14Install wheels and lower vehicle to groundReinstall the rear wheels and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle so that the full weight is resting on the suspension (wheels on ground). This positions the suspension at ride height for final torquing.
- 15Torque all fasteners at ride heightWith the vehicle at normal ride height (full weight on wheels), torque the rear wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Working under the vehicle, torque the trailing arm inboard mounting bolts and the trailing arm-to-hub outboard bolt. Torque the trailing arm inboard and outboard bolts to the factory Aston Martin DB9 specification. The exact value must be obtained from the Aston Martin workshop manual and must not be assumed to match generic control arm bolt specs — do not apply any torque until the manufacturer-documented value is confirmed. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely. Note: Torque the trailing arm/lower control arm pivot bolts and the outboard bolt to the Aston Martin DB9 factory specification (verify exact values in the AM workshop manual before final torque — do not assume a generic control arm value). Note: Torque the trailing arm mounting bolts to the Aston Martin workshop-manual specification for this fastener; do not assume they match other control arm bolts — verify the exact value before final tightening.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts89 Nm (66 lb-ft)Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Repeat the procedure for the opposite side if both trailing arms require bushing replacement
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification with vehicle weight on suspension
- Verify no tools or parts are left in the wheel wells or under the vehicle
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking, knocking, or abnormal noises from the rear suspension
- Check that the vehicle tracks straight and there is no pull to either side
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible, as trailing arm bushing replacement affects rear toe and camber settings
- Re-torque all fasteners after 50-100 miles of driving to ensure they remain properly seated