1970 CHEVROLET CAMARO

Symptoms: Sagging front end or uneven ride height, Visible rust perforation under firewall or front frame rails, Cracking paint along torque boxes behind front wheels, Steering wander or alignment won't hold

Fix: Rust in subframe rails and torque boxes (structural reinforcements) is endemic on these unibodies, especially in humid or salt climates. Proper repair requires cutting out bad metal, welding in patch panels or full frame sections, and aligning the shell. 16-24 hours labor if caught early; 40+ hours for complete subframe replacement with shell on rotisserie.

Estimated cost: $3,000-12,000

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi

Symptoms: Slipping on 1-2 or 2-3 shift, Delayed engagement into gear, Burnt ATF smell or dark red/brown fluid, No movement in drive or reverse

Fix: Automatic transmissions from this era leak, overheat (no external coolers stock on many), and wear clutch packs and bands. TH350 is most common; rebuild includes hard parts inspection, new clutches, bands, seals, filter, and cooler flush. 8-12 hours labor for drop, rebuild, and reinstall. Add 2-3 hours if also replacing transmission mount (common) and installing external cooler.

Estimated cost: $1,800-3,200

Typical onset: 100,000-150,000 mi

Symptoms: Blue smoke on startup or deceleration, Excessive oil consumption (1 qt per 500-1000 mi), Low compression on multiple cylinders, Crankcase blow-by and oil in air cleaner

Fix: Original 307, 350, and 396/402 blocks wear rings and develop cylinder taper, especially if run on straight-weight oils or overheated. A proper fix is bore, hone, new pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets—essentially a short-block rebuild. Can often reuse heads if not cracked. Engine R&R plus machine work: 20-30 hours. Many owners opt for crate motors instead at similar cost.

Estimated cost: $3,500-6,500

Symptoms: Wet carpet that never dries, Visible holes in floor under seats or rear footwells, Trunk holds water after rain, Fuel smell in cabin (filler neck area rust)

Fix: Water traps in rocker drain holes and rear frame rails cause floor pans to rust from inside out. Trunk pans rust around spare tire well and under quarter panels. Requires cutting out old metal, welding in replacement pans, seam sealing, and undercoating. 12-20 hours labor depending on extent. DIY-friendly if you can weld, but body shop markup is steep.

Estimated cost: $2,000-5,000

Symptoms: Hard starting when hot, Engine dies at idle after highway run, Fuel smell or visible leaks at sender or lines, Rough idle or surging from rust debris

Fix: Steel fuel tanks rust internally after decades; original rubber hoses harden and crack. Vapor lock is common on hot days with mechanical fuel pumps running original routing near exhaust. Fix involves tank removal, cleaning or replacement, new sender, all rubber hoses, filter, and rerouting hard lines away from heat. 6-10 hours labor.

Estimated cost: $800-1,800

Typical onset: 60,000-100,000 mi

Symptoms: Excessive play at steering wheel (more than 2 inches), Wandering on highway requiring constant correction, Clunking over bumps from front end, Uneven tire wear on inside edges

Fix: Recirculating ball steering boxes wear internally; idler arms and tie rod ends develop slop. Original equipment rarely survives 50 years tight. Rebuild or replace steering box (4-6 hours), new idler arm and tie rods (2-3 hours), then align. Modern replacement boxes (AGR, Redhead) recommended over OE rebuilds.

Estimated cost: $1,200-2,200

Symptoms: Water dripping from under dash onto driver's feet, Musty smell and wet insulation, Rust visible at base of windshield or cowl vent area, Seized wiper pivots

Fix: Cowl drains clog with leaves and debris, causing water to pool and rust the cowl panel and windshield channel. Windshield must come out to properly fix. Requires cleaning drains, cutting out rusted cowl sections, welding patches, and resealing glass. 10-16 hours labor. Often discovered during windshield replacement.

Estimated cost: $1,500-3,500