Free API
drivetrain

Axle Shaft - Rear

for 1966 Chevrolet Corvette 327ci V8 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
15
Steps
15
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear axle shaft on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette with independent rear suspension, including bearing and seal service.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
The 1966 Corvette uses an independent rear suspension with trailing arms. The axle shaft is under spring tension when the vehicle is loaded and can shift unexpectedly during removal.
Gear oil will drain when the differential cover is removed. Have a suitable drain pan positioned.
ℹ️The 1966 Corvette rear axle uses shims to set axle shaft endplay. Keep track of all shims during removal for proper reinstallation.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • 75W-90 GL-5 Gear Oil — 2 qt

Preparation

  1. Park the vehicle on a level, solid surface and engage the parking brake.
  2. Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels.
  3. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel corresponding to the axle shaft being replaced (do not remove yet).
  4. Raise the rear of the vehicle using a floor jack at the differential housing.
  5. Place jack stands under the frame rails near the rear suspension mounting points and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
  6. Remove the wheel and tire assembly completely.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake components
    Remove the brake caliper by removing the two mounting bolts. Support the caliper with wire or a bungee cord to avoid stressing the brake hose. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. Remove the brake rotor by pulling it straight off the hub. If stuck, use light taps with a rubber mallet on the back side.
  2. 2
    Disconnect the driveshaft from the spindle support
    Remove the four bolts connecting the inboard U-joint flange to the differential side yoke. Support the driveshaft and carefully move it aside, securing it to the suspension with wire to keep it out of the work area.
  3. 3
    Remove the spindle support mounting bolts
    Locate the spindle support assembly (also called the spindle knuckle) which houses the axle shaft bearing. Remove the three bolts that attach the spindle support to the trailing arm and strut rod bracket. Note the position of any shims between the spindle support and mounting surfaces.
  4. 4
    Drain the differential
    Position a drain pan under the differential. Remove the differential cover bolts (typically 10 bolts) and carefully pry the cover away from the housing. Allow all gear oil to drain completely into the pan. Clean the mating surfaces of both the cover and housing with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
  5. 5
    Remove the axle shaft C-clip
    Inside the differential, locate the pinion shaft lock bolt on the back side of the ring gear. Remove this bolt and carefully slide the pinion shaft out toward the side you are working on. Push the axle shaft inward slightly to expose the C-clip retainer at the inner end of the axle shaft splines. Use snap ring pliers to remove the C-clip and retain it if reusing.
  6. 6
    Extract the axle shaft
    Carefully pull the axle shaft outward from the differential housing. The shaft should slide out once the C-clip is removed. If resistance is met, gently rotate the shaft while pulling. Once the splined end clears the differential, continue pulling the shaft through the spindle support bearing until completely removed.
  7. 7
    Remove the bearing and seal from spindle support
    With the axle shaft removed, inspect the bearing in the spindle support housing. Use a slide hammer with internal bearing puller attachment to extract the bearing from the spindle support. Once the bearing is out, pry out the old seal from the inboard side of the housing using a seal pick or screwdriver. Clean the bearing bore thoroughly.
  8. 8
    Install new bearing and seal
    Pack the new bearing with fresh gear oil before installation. Using a bearing race driver or appropriately sized socket, drive the new bearing into the spindle support housing until it seats fully against the internal shoulder. Install the new seal with the lip facing inward (toward the differential) using a seal driver, ensuring it seats flush with the housing face.
  9. 9
    Install the new axle shaft
    Lightly coat the axle shaft bearing surface with gear oil. Carefully insert the axle shaft through the spindle support bearing, guiding it into the differential housing. Align the splines and push the shaft inward until it engages fully with the differential side gears. Push the shaft in as far as possible to allow C-clip installation.
  10. 10
    Install the C-clip and pinion shaft
    Install the C-clip into the groove at the inner end of the axle shaft splines. Pull the axle shaft outward slightly to seat the C-clip against the differential side gear. Reinstall the pinion shaft through the differential case and side gears, ensuring it passes through the side gear opening. Install and tighten the pinion shaft lock bolt.
  11. 11
    Reinstall the differential cover
    Install a new gasket or apply a thin bead of RTV silicone to the differential cover mating surface. Position the cover onto the housing and install all cover bolts finger-tight. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure even gasket compression. Allow RTV to cure per manufacturer instructions before refilling if used.
  12. 12
    Refill the differential
    Locate the differential fill plug on the front or side of the housing. Remove the plug and fill the differential with 2.0 quarts of 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil through the fill hole until oil reaches the bottom of the fill plug hole. Reinstall and tighten the fill plug.
  13. 13
    Reinstall the spindle support assembly
    Position the spindle support assembly back onto the trailing arm and strut rod bracket. Install any shims that were removed in their original positions. Install the three mounting bolts and tighten them securely. Proper shim positioning is critical for correct axle shaft endplay.
  14. 14
    Reconnect the driveshaft
    Position the inboard U-joint flange back onto the differential side yoke. Install the four flange bolts and tighten them securely. Ensure the U-joint moves freely without binding.
  15. 15
    Reinstall brake components
    Slide the brake rotor back onto the hub. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and install the two caliper mounting bolts, tightening them securely. Pump the brake pedal several times to reseat the caliper pistons before driving.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly, threading the lug nuts on by hand first.
  2. Raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands using the floor jack, remove the stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
  3. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
  4. Test drive the vehicle at low speed to verify proper operation and listen for any unusual noises from the rear axle.

Verification

  • Check for gear oil leaks around the differential cover and axle shaft seal after the first drive.
  • Verify smooth operation with no clicking, popping, or grinding noises from the rear axle during acceleration and turning.
  • Check that the brake pedal feels firm and that the brakes engage properly on the repaired side.
  • Verify proper axle shaft endplay by grasping the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and checking for excessive vertical movement (should be minimal with proper shimming).
🔧Stuck on this axle shaft - rear? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Chevrolet within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
🔓 LIBERATED FOREVER
The 1966 Chevrolet Corvette 327ci V8 repair data is free for every DIYer and shop on earth, permanently, because Integrity Motorsports Group, Mooresville NC paid $99 to unlock it.
Mitchell1 charges $169/mo for this. ALLDATAdiy charges $30/yr per vehicle. Open Labor Project is free permanently, because of community sponsors like Integrity.
Free another vehicle →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →