This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the lower ball joint on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette with independent rear suspension, requiring separation of the control arm from the steering knuckle and press-out/press-in of the ball joint.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Lower ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent K6136
• Lower ball joint castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pin (3/32" x 1.5") × 1 — Standard automotive cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Chock rear wheels front and rear to prevent rolling
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on the ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-approved lifting point on frame
5. Place jack stands under frame rails behind lower control arm mounting points
6. Remove front wheel completely
7. Spray penetrating oil on ball joint castle nut, control arm bolts, and any other fasteners to be removed; allow to soak 15-20 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper
   Remove the two bolts securing the brake caliper to the steering knuckle. Lift caliper off rotor and suspend it from the frame or upper control arm using wire or a bungee cord to avoid stress on the brake hose. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line.
2. 2

   Support lower control arm
   Position a floor jack under the lower control arm as close to the ball joint as possible without interfering with removal. Raise jack just enough to make contact and slightly compress the suspension spring (approximately 1/4 inch). This relieves load on the ball joint and stabilizes the control arm during disassembly.
3. 3

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut using pliers or side cutters. Remove the castle nut completely using an appropriate socket. The nut is a left-hand thread or right-hand thread depending on the side; turn counterclockwise to remove on passenger side, clockwise on driver side.
4. 4

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Insert a ball joint separator (pickle fork) between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the separator with a hammer to drive it into the joint, breaking the taper fit. Alternatively, use a tie rod puller-style separator for cleaner separation. The ball joint stud should pop free from the knuckle. If using a pickle fork, the ball joint boot will be destroyed.
5. 5

   Lower control arm and remove knuckle clearance
   Slowly lower the floor jack supporting the control arm to relieve spring tension. Lower only enough to allow the steering knuckle to pivot away from the ball joint stud (approximately 2-3 inches). The ball joint stud should now be completely free from the knuckle. Do not fully lower the control arm or remove the jack.
6. 6

   Remove ball joint rivets or retaining hardware
   The original ball joint is secured to the lower control arm with 4 rivets that must be drilled out or ground off. Use a 1/4-inch drill bit to drill through the rivet heads, then use a 3/8-inch bit to remove the rivet heads completely. Drive out the rivet shanks using a punch and hammer. If the ball joint was previously replaced, remove the 4 bolts and nuts securing it to the control arm instead.
7. 7

   Remove old ball joint from control arm
   Once all 4 rivets or bolts are removed, pull the old ball joint assembly down and out of the lower control arm. The ball joint housing should separate cleanly. If it binds, tap it gently with a dead blow hammer or use a pry bar for leverage.
8. 8

   Clean control arm mounting surface
   Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the ball joint mounting surface on the lower control arm. Remove all rust, dirt, and debris from the 4 bolt holes and the surrounding flat surface. Ensure the mounting surface is flat and free of burrs that could prevent proper seating of the new ball joint.
9. 9

   Install new ball joint to control arm
   Position the new ball joint into the lower control arm with the stud pointing downward through the control arm. Align the 4 bolt holes in the ball joint with the holes in the control arm. Insert the 4 bolts (supplied with replacement ball joint) from the top of the control arm down through the ball joint flange. Thread nuts onto bolts from below and hand-tighten all 4 fasteners.
10. 10

    Torque ball joint mounting bolts
    Torque the 4 ball joint mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern to the specification provided with the replacement ball joint (typically 25-35 ft-lb for the initial pass, then 50 ft-lb final). Ensure the ball joint seats flush against the control arm without any gaps.
11. 11

    Reconnect ball joint to steering knuckle
    Raise the floor jack under the lower control arm to lift the ball joint stud up into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Use a pry bar or C-clamp if needed to align the stud with the hole. Continue raising the jack until the stud protrudes through the top of the knuckle and the control arm is at approximately normal ride height.
12. 12

    Install and torque castle nut
    Thread the new castle nut onto the ball joint stud (left-hand thread or right-hand thread as original). Torque the castle nut to 50 ft-lb. If the slots in the castle nut do not align with the cotter pin hole in the stud, tighten the nut further (up to an additional 1/6 turn) until alignment is achieved. Never loosen the nut to align the cotter pin hole.
13. 13

    Install new cotter pin
    Insert a new cotter pin through the aligned slot in the castle nut and the hole in the ball joint stud. Bend the ends of the cotter pin in opposite directions around the castle nut to secure it. Ensure the cotter pin cannot work loose.
14. 14

    Reinstall brake caliper
    Remove the wire or bungee cord supporting the brake caliper. Position the caliper over the brake rotor and align the mounting holes. Install the 2 caliper mounting bolts and torque to 35-40 ft-lb.
15. 15

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts on by hand. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 80 ft-lb. Fully lower the vehicle and remove the jack. Remove wheel chocks.

Reassembly

1. After completing the procedure on one side, repeat all steps for the opposite side if both ball joints are being replaced
2. Verify that all fasteners are properly torqued and that no tools or parts were left in the wheel well
3. The ball joint grease fitting (if equipped) should be lubricated with chassis grease using a grease gun until new grease appears at the boot seal

Verification

• With vehicle on the ground, turn the steering wheel fully left and right to ensure full range of motion without binding or noise from the ball joint
• Grasp the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and attempt to rock it vertically; there should be no play or clunking from the ball joint
• Perform a test drive at low speed and verify normal steering response and no unusual noises or vibrations from the front suspension
• After 50-100 miles of driving, re-torque the ball joint castle nut and mounting bolts to verify they have not loosened

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