Brake Hose - Rear

Replace the rear brake hose on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette with 327ci V8, including bleeding the brake system to restore proper braking function.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake hose × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent rubber brake hose with correct end fittings
• Brake hose retaining clip × 1 — Spring clip for hose-to-bracket mount
• Copper brake line washers/gaskets × 2 — If hose uses banjo fittings

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place wheel chocks at front wheels.
2. Verify you have the correct replacement brake hose with proper end fittings for your specific Corvette rear brake configuration (some have frame-to-axle hoses, others frame-to-wheel cylinder).
3. Open a fresh container of DOT 4 brake fluid and keep sealed until needed.
4. If fittings appear corroded, spray with penetrating oil and allow 15-30 minutes to soak before beginning work.
5. Locate the master cylinder reservoir and remove the cap to relieve any pressure in the system.
6. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed under the frame rails.
7. Remove the rear wheel on the side where the brake hose is being replaced.

Procedure

1. 1

   Locate and inspect the rear brake hose
   Identify the flexible brake hose running from the chassis-mounted brake line to the rear axle or wheel cylinder. On the 1966 Corvette, this hose typically connects at a bracket on the frame and at the rear axle housing or backing plate. Inspect both connection points and the routing path. Note the position of any retaining clips or brackets.
2. 2

   Position drain pan and prepare fittings
   Place a drain pan beneath the brake hose connections to catch brake fluid. Use a wire brush to clean the hex flats on both the frame-side and axle-side brake line fittings. This will help prevent rounding of the fittings during removal.
3. 3

   Disconnect hose from frame-side brake line
   Using a flare nut wrench of appropriate size (typically 3/8" or 7/16"), carefully loosen the fitting connecting the flexible hose to the hard brake line at the frame bracket. Hold the brake hose end fitting with a backup wrench to prevent twisting the hose. Once loose, unscrew the fitting by hand and allow brake fluid to drain into the pan. Immediately plug or cap the hard line end to minimize fluid loss and contamination.
   ⚠Do not use an open-end wrench on brake line fittings - use only flare nut wrenches to prevent rounding off the soft brass or steel fittings.
4. 4

   Remove hose retaining clip from frame bracket
   Locate the spring clip or horseshoe clip that secures the brake hose to the frame-mounted bracket. Use pliers or a screwdriver to compress or pry the retaining clip out of the bracket. The hose should now be free to pull out of the bracket.
5. 5

   Disconnect hose from axle-side connection
   At the rear axle housing or wheel cylinder, use a flare nut wrench to loosen the fitting connecting the brake hose to the hard line or directly to the wheel cylinder. Again, use a backup wrench on the hose end or wheel cylinder fitting to prevent twisting. Remove the fitting completely and allow remaining fluid to drain. Cap or plug this connection as well.
   ⚠If the hose connects directly to the wheel cylinder on the backing plate, be especially careful not to twist or damage the wheel cylinder body.
6. 6

   Remove old brake hose
   With both ends disconnected and the retaining clip removed, pull the old brake hose free from the vehicle. Inspect the old hose for cracks, bulging, chafing, or internal deterioration. This confirms the need for replacement.
7. 7

   Prepare and inspect new brake hose
   Unpack the new brake hose and verify it matches the old hose in length, end fitting configuration, and bracket mounting style. Check that any included copper washers or gaskets are present. Do not remove protective caps from the hose ends until ready to install.
8. 8

   Install new hose into frame bracket
   Remove the protective cap from the frame-side end of the new brake hose. Insert the hose through the frame bracket in the same orientation as the original, ensuring the hose is not twisted. Install the new retaining clip to secure the hose in the bracket. The clip should snap firmly into place.
9. 9

   Connect new hose to frame-side brake line
   Thread the brake hose fitting onto the chassis-mounted hard brake line by hand, ensuring it starts cleanly without cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use a flare nut wrench to snug the fitting while holding the hose end with a backup wrench. Tighten firmly but do not over-torque - typical specification is 10-15 ft-lbs for brake hose fittings, though hand-tight plus 1/4 turn with a wrench is acceptable without a torque wrench.
10. 10

    Connect new hose to axle-side connection
    Route the new hose to the rear axle connection point, ensuring the hose has a natural curve without kinks or sharp bends. Remove the protective cap and thread the fitting onto the axle-side hard line or wheel cylinder by hand. Tighten using a flare nut wrench with backup wrench support, again to 10-15 ft-lbs or hand-tight plus 1/4 turn. Verify the hose does not contact the axle, suspension components, or tire during full suspension travel and steering.
11. 11

    Bleed the rear brake circuit
    Refill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid to the MAX line. Attach a clear bleeding hose to the bleeder screw on the rear wheel cylinder or caliper being serviced. Submerge the other end in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold firm pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 turn and observe fluid and air bubbles flowing through the clear hose. Close the bleeder before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream and only clean fluid flows. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding to prevent introducing air.
    ⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding or you will introduce air into the entire brake system, requiring bleeding of all four wheels.
12. 12

    Check for leaks and verify connections
    With the bleeding complete and the system pressurized, carefully inspect both brake hose connections for any sign of fluid leakage. Have an assistant apply firm brake pedal pressure while you observe the fittings. Wipe all connections clean and look for fresh fluid seepage. If any leak is detected, relieve pressure and re-tighten the affected fitting slightly.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to proper torque specification (typically 70-80 ft-lbs for 1966 Corvette). Remove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque lug nuts again once vehicle weight is on the wheels.
14. 14

    Final brake system check
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid and reinstall the reservoir cap. Start the engine and pump the brake pedal several times to build system pressure. The pedal should feel firm and not sink slowly to the floor. Check all connections one final time for leaks while the system is under pressure.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all brake line fittings are properly tightened and show no signs of leakage.
2. Verify the brake hose is properly secured in its mounting bracket with the retaining clip fully seated.
3. Confirm the brake hose has adequate clearance from suspension components, axle, and tire throughout full range of motion.
4. Dispose of old brake fluid properly - do not pour down drains or into the environment.

Verification

• With engine running, apply firm brake pedal pressure and verify the pedal feels solid and does not slowly sink to the floor over 30 seconds.
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area, applying brakes gently at first, then progressively harder to verify proper braking function and even braking side-to-side.
• After test drive, re-inspect all brake hose connections for any fluid leakage or seepage.
• Check master cylinder fluid level and top off if needed - any significant fluid loss indicates a leak that must be found and corrected.
• Re-check lug nut torque after the first 50 miles of driving.

More procedures for this vehicle