Brake Pads - Rear

Replace rear brake pads on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette equipped with rear disc brakes, including caliper service and proper bedding procedure.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake pad set (4 pads total, both sides) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake pad hardware kit (clips and shims) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake firmly
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground
3. Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack at differential or rear crossmember
4. Place jack stands under rear axle tubes near differential, ensuring stable support
5. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside
6. Remove approximately 1/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or syringe to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake system condition
   Before beginning disassembly, inspect the brake rotors for excessive wear, deep scoring, or heat cracks. Check brake fluid level and condition in master cylinder. Examine brake lines and hoses for leaks, cracks, or bulging. If rotors show damage beyond light surface rust or scoring deeper than 0.030 inches, rotor replacement or resurfacing is required before installing new pads.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the inboard side of the caliper. These bolts secure the caliper to the bracket. Using the appropriate socket, remove both slide pin bolts completely. Support the caliper with one hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
3. 3

   Pivot caliper away from rotor
   With the slide pin bolts removed, carefully pivot the caliper up and away from the brake rotor. The caliper will remain attached by the rubber brake hose—do NOT let the caliper hang by the hose. Support the caliper by hanging it from the suspension with a wire hook or bungee cord, ensuring no tension is placed on the brake line.
   ⚠Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose. The weight can damage the hose internally, leading to brake failure.
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads and hardware
   Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. They may be held by spring clips or simply sit in the bracket channels. Note the orientation and position of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or springs for reinstallation. Remove all pad hardware and set aside. Inspect the caliper bracket channels where the pad ears ride—these must be clean and smooth.
5. 5

   Clean caliper bracket and hardware
   Spray the caliper bracket thoroughly with brake cleaner, paying special attention to the pad slide channels and mounting points. Use a wire brush to remove rust, corrosion, and old grease from the bracket channels. Wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Clean the caliper slide pins and inspect their rubber boots for tears or damage. Replace boots if damaged.
6. 6

   Compress caliper piston
   Using a C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor, slowly compress the caliper piston back into its bore. Place the clamp against the back of the caliper body and a flat piece of wood or old brake pad against the piston face to distribute pressure evenly. Compress slowly and watch the master cylinder reservoir—it should not overflow. This step creates clearance for the thicker new brake pads.
   ⚠If the piston does not compress smoothly or binds, the caliper may be seized and require replacement or rebuild.
7. 7

   Install new pad hardware and lubricate
   Install the new anti-rattle clips, shims, and springs from the hardware kit into the caliper bracket in the same positions as removed. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to the caliper bracket pad slide channels and to the backs of the pad ears where they contact the bracket. Do NOT get grease on the friction surface of the pads or the rotor.
   ⚠Keep all grease and oil away from pad friction material and rotor surfaces. Contamination will cause brake failure.
8. 8

   Install new brake pads
   Install the new inner and outer brake pads into the caliper bracket. The friction material faces the rotor; the backing plates face outward. The inner pad (piston side) typically has a wear sensor tab or different profile than the outer pad. Ensure pads are fully seated in the bracket channels and that any retaining clips engage properly.
9. 9

   Lubricate and reinstall caliper
   Apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease to the caliper slide pins (the portions that ride in the rubber boots, not the threaded ends). Swing the caliper back down over the new brake pads and align the slide pin bolt holes with the bracket. Ensure the caliper is properly positioned and not binding on the pads.
10. 10

    Install and torque caliper slide pin bolts
    Thread both caliper slide pin bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Tighten both bolts to 30.0 Nm (22 lb-ft) using a torque wrench. Verify the caliper moves slightly on the slide pins when pushed—this indicates proper installation and lubrication. The caliper must float freely to apply pressure evenly.
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 2 through 10 for the opposite rear brake assembly. Both sides must be serviced to maintain balanced braking. Inspect the second side carefully for any differences in wear or damage compared to the first side, which could indicate alignment or caliper issues.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheels
    Install the rear wheels, threading lug nuts by hand to start. Tighten lug nuts snugly in a star pattern using the tire iron, but do NOT torque fully yet. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack until the tires just touch the ground with minimal weight.
13. 13

    Torque wheel lug nuts
    With the vehicle weight on the wheels but still supported partially by the jack, torque all rear wheel lug nuts to 140.0 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern to ensure even seating. Fully lower the vehicle and remove the jack. Verify all lug nuts are tight.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Restore brake pedal pressure
    With the vehicle still in Park or in gear with parking brake engaged, pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly 10-15 times until the pedal becomes firm and reaches normal height. This repositions the caliper pistons against the new pads. The first few pumps will feel soft—this is normal. Check master cylinder fluid level and top off with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid if needed, leaving 1/4 inch below the MAX line.
    ⚠️DO NOT attempt to drive the vehicle until the brake pedal is firm. Driving with an unpumped pedal will result in no braking action.
15. 15

    Perform initial brake test and bedding
    Perform initial brake tests at very low speed (under 5 mph) in a safe area to confirm brake function. Gradually increase test speed to 15-20 mph with gentle stops. For proper pad bedding, make 8-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 15 mph with 30-second cool-down periods between stops. Avoid coming to a complete stop during bedding if possible. After bedding, avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles except in emergencies.
    ⚠New pads may produce some noise and dust initially. Braking performance will improve after proper bedding.

Reassembly

1. Dispose of old brake pads and contaminated brake cleaner rags according to local hazardous waste regulations
2. Store remaining brake fluid in a sealed container away from heat and moisture
3. Document the date and mileage of brake pad replacement for maintenance records

Verification

• Brake pedal should be firm and at normal height with no excessive travel before reaching pressure
• No brake fluid leaks visible at calipers, hoses, or master cylinder
• All wheel lug nuts torqued to specification in star pattern
• Vehicle stops straight with no pulling to either side during moderate braking
• No grinding, squealing, or rubbing noises from rear brakes during slow-speed driving
• Both rear wheels spin freely by hand with no dragging when vehicle is raised
• Parking brake still engages and holds vehicle on an incline

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