fuel
Fuel Injectors - All
for 1966 Chevrolet Corvette 327ci V8 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
5.5 h
Tools
17
Steps
17
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Removal and replacement of all eight fuel injectors on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette 327ci V8 equipped with Rochester fuel injection system.
Warnings
⚠️Gasoline is extremely flammable. Work in a well-ventilated area with no open flames, sparks, or lit cigarettes. Have a fire extinguisher rated for fuel fires immediately available.
⚠️The Rochester fuel injection system operates at high pressure (approximately 18-20 psi). Fuel will spray forcefully if lines are disconnected without proper depressurization. Relieve fuel pressure completely before disconnecting any fuel lines.
⚠The 1966 Corvette fuel injection system is a mechanical unit that requires precise calibration. Mark all linkage positions and vacuum line connections before removal to ensure proper reassembly.
⚠Do not allow dirt or debris to enter the fuel system or intake manifold. Cover all open ports immediately after disconnection.
ℹ️This procedure applies specifically to 1966 Corvettes equipped with the Rochester fuel injection system (option code 327/350hp). Carbureted models do not have fuel injectors.
Tools required
Fuel pressure gaugeEssential
Combination wrench set (SAE)Essential
Torque wrench (inch-pounds)Essential
Torque wrench (foot-pounds)Essential
Flat blade screwdriver setEssential
Phillips screwdriver setEssential
Needle nose pliersEssential
Wire brushEssential
Shop towelsEssential
Safety glassesEssential
Nitrile glovesEssential
Fire extinguisherEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Fuel injector (Rochester type) × 8 — Use OEM specification
- Injector O-ring seal kit × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Fuel rail gasket set × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Throttle body gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Fuel filter × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Vacuum line assortment (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Ensure the engine is completely cold before beginning work
- Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent electrical shorts and fuel pump activation
- Place a large drip pan under the vehicle to catch any fuel spillage
- Have multiple shop towels ready to absorb fuel spills immediately
- Photograph or sketch all vacuum line routing and linkage positions from multiple angles for reassembly reference
- Label each vacuum line with tape and marker before disconnection
- Remove the engine air cleaner assembly and set aside in a clean area
- Clean the exterior of the fuel injection unit with a degreaser to prevent dirt entry during disassembly
Procedure
- 1Relieve fuel system pressureRemove the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the fuel pump relay if equipped. Attempt to start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls from fuel starvation. Crank the engine for 5 seconds after stalling to ensure complete depressurization. On this mechanical system, also open the fuel line at the filter slowly using two wrenches to relieve any remaining pressure. Catch fuel in a drip pan.
- 2Disconnect fuel supply and return linesLocate the fuel inlet line at the fuel meter body on the front of the injection unit. Use two wrenches (one to hold, one to loosen) to disconnect the fuel inlet line. Disconnect the fuel return line at the pressure regulator. Cap or plug all open fuel lines immediately to prevent contamination and fuel leakage. Expect residual fuel to drain from lines.
- 3Disconnect electrical connectionsDisconnect the electrical connector from each of the eight fuel injectors by squeezing the locking tab and pulling straight up. Label each connector with tape indicating its cylinder position (driver front, driver rear, etc.) to ensure correct reconnection. On this mechanical system, also disconnect any electrical connections to the cold start valve if equipped.
- 4Remove throttle linkage and control cablesDisconnect the throttle linkage rod at the throttle lever by removing the cotter pin and clevis pin. Remove the throttle return spring. If equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect the kickdown cable at the throttle lever. Remove the choke cable if equipped. Mark the exact position of all linkage adjustment points before disconnection.
- 5Disconnect vacuum linesCarefully disconnect all vacuum lines from the fuel meter body, throttle body, and manifold vacuum fittings. The Rochester system uses approximately 10 vacuum connections including distributor advance, power brake booster, PCV system, and fuel pressure regulator. Follow your labeled diagram created during preparation. Use needle nose pliers to loosen stuck hoses without tearing.
- 6Remove fuel meter body mounting boltsRemove the 4 bolts securing the fuel meter body (distribution block) to the intake manifold plenum. These are located at the corners of the rectangular meter body casting. Support the meter body as you remove the final bolt to prevent it from falling and damaging injectors or linkage.
- 7Remove fuel meter body and injector assemblyCarefully lift the fuel meter body assembly straight up and away from the intake manifold. The eight injectors will remain inserted in the manifold ports initially. Work slowly to avoid bending fuel lines or damaging injector tips. Place the assembly on a clean workbench protected with shop towels.
- 8Extract injectors from intake manifoldEach injector is held in its intake manifold port by an O-ring seal and may be stuck due to fuel varnish. Grasp each injector firmly and pull straight up with a twisting motion. If injectors are severely stuck, use an injector puller tool hooked under the electrical connector flange. Do not pry against the injector body or tip as damage will result. Remove all eight injectors and immediately cover the open intake ports with clean shop towels to prevent debris entry.
- 9Remove injectors from fuel meter bodyEach injector connects to the fuel meter body via a fuel line and mounting bracket. Remove the small retaining clip or bracket bolt securing each injector to the meter body. Disconnect the fuel supply tube from each injector using two wrenches to prevent twisting the injector body. Keep injectors organized by cylinder position.
- 10Inspect and clean intake portsInspect each intake manifold injector port for carbon buildup, damage, or corrosion. Use a wire brush to clean the port opening without allowing debris to fall into the manifold. Wipe clean with shop towels. Inspect the O-ring sealing surface for scratches or damage that could cause vacuum leaks.
- 11Prepare new injectors for installationRemove new injectors from packaging. Lubricate all new O-rings with clean engine oil or petroleum jelly. Install new O-rings on each injector at both the tip seal and upper body seal positions. Inspect each new injector tip for damage and ensure the pintle moves freely.
- 12Install injectors into intake manifoldInstall each new injector into its corresponding intake manifold port by pushing straight down with a gentle twisting motion until the injector seats fully against the manifold. The O-ring should compress and the injector should sit flush or slightly below the manifold deck surface. Install all eight injectors before proceeding.
- 13Connect injectors to fuel meter bodyPosition the fuel meter body above the installed injectors. Connect each injector fuel supply tube to its corresponding fitting on the fuel meter body using two wrenches. Install the retaining clips or bracket bolts to secure each injector to the meter body structure. Ensure all connections are tight but do not overtighten and damage the brass fittings.
- 14Install fuel meter body assemblyInstall a new gasket on the intake manifold plenum surface where the fuel meter body mounts. Carefully lower the fuel meter body assembly with all injectors attached onto the intake manifold, guiding each injector into its port simultaneously. This requires patience and may need a helper. Install the 4 mounting bolts finger-tight, then tighten in a cross pattern to ensure even seating.
- 15Reconnect vacuum lines and linkageReconnect all vacuum lines according to your labeled diagram and photographs. Ensure each connection is fully seated and secure. Reconnect the throttle linkage, return spring, kickdown cable, and choke cable. Adjust throttle linkage to achieve full throttle opening and proper idle position. Install new cotter pins on clevis pin connections.
- 16Reconnect electrical and fuel connectionsReconnect the electrical connector to each fuel injector according to your cylinder position labels. Each connector should click into place when fully seated. Reconnect the fuel supply and return lines using two wrenches. Ensure connections are tight without overtightening.
- 17Prime fuel system and check for leaksReconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the ON position without starting the engine. On this mechanical system, the fuel pump will run continuously, so monitor carefully. Inspect all fuel connections for leaks. Turn the key OFF if any leaks are detected. Tighten connections as needed. Once leak-free, turn the key ON again and observe fuel pressure stabilize.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the engine air cleaner assembly with a new filter element
- Double-check all vacuum line connections against your reference photographs
- Verify throttle linkage achieves full range of motion without binding
- Ensure all electrical connectors are fully seated and locked
- Verify no tools or shop towels were left in the engine compartment
Verification
- Start the engine and listen for smooth idle operation without misfires or rough running
- Observe fuel pressure gauge reading (should stabilize at 18-20 psi on this system)
- Inspect all fuel connections for leaks while the engine is running
- Test throttle response by slowly increasing engine speed and ensuring smooth acceleration without hesitation
- Allow engine to reach operating temperature and verify no vacuum leaks (rough idle or hissing sounds)
- Road test the vehicle to verify proper power delivery, smooth acceleration, and no fuel odor in the cabin
- Recheck all fuel connections for leaks after the test drive when the system is at full operating pressure