Replace the protective rubber boots on the steering rack and pinion assembly to prevent contamination and maintain proper lubrication of the steering mechanism.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rack and pinion boot kit (inner and outer boots with clamps) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Tie rod end castle nut (if damaged) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pins for castle nuts × 2 — 1/8" diameter

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Turn steering wheel to center position and lock steering column if possible
4. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
5. Raise front of vehicle using floor jack at approved front crossmember jacking point
6. Support vehicle on jack stands placed at frame rails near front suspension mounting points
7. Remove both front wheels completely
8. Spray penetrating oil on tie rod end castle nuts and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

1. 1

   Access the steering rack assembly
   From under the vehicle, locate the steering rack assembly mounted to the front crossmember or frame. Identify both inner and outer tie rod ends where the boots attach. Clean the area around the boots with a wire brush and shop rags to remove road debris and dirt that could contaminate the steering rack during boot replacement.
2. 2

   Mark tie rod position
   Before disconnecting any components, measure and record the exposed thread length on each tie rod end from the jam nut to the tie rod end. Use a marker or scribe to mark the position of the tie rod end relative to the tie rod shaft. This ensures proper alignment restoration and maintains current toe settings.
3. 3

   Remove outer tie rod end castle nuts
   Remove the cotter pins from both outer tie rod end castle nuts using needle-nose pliers. Unscrew the castle nuts from the tie rod ends but leave them threaded on a few turns to protect the threads. This also prevents the tie rod from falling when separated.
4. 4

   Separate tie rod ends from steering knuckles
   Using a tie rod end separator tool (pickle fork or ball joint separator), carefully separate each tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Position the separator between the knuckle and tie rod end taper. Strike the separator with a hammer or use the threaded type to apply pressure until the taper releases. Remove the castle nuts completely once the tie rod ends are free. Support the tie rod ends to prevent damage to the boots you are replacing.
5. 5

   Loosen tie rod jam nuts
   Using two wrenches, loosen the jam nuts that lock the outer tie rod ends to the inner tie rod shafts. One wrench holds the flat section on the inner tie rod while the other loosens the jam nut. Do not remove the jam nuts completely; loosen them just enough to allow tie rod end rotation.
6. 6

   Remove outer tie rod ends
   Count and record the number of turns as you unscrew each outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Thread the tie rod ends completely off while counting rotations. This information allows precise reassembly to maintain alignment settings. Typical count is 18-22 turns but varies by previous adjustment.
7. 7

   Remove old boot clamps
   Locate the boot clamps on both ends of each rack boot (one clamp at the rack housing, one at the inner tie rod). Cut or spread the clamps using boot clamp pliers or side cutters. Remove all old clamps completely. There are typically 4 clamps total for both sides (2 per boot).
8. 8

   Remove old boots
   Slide the old boots off the inner tie rod shafts toward the outer end. If boots are stuck due to dried grease or corrosion, carefully work them free using a flathead screwdriver, taking care not to damage the inner tie rod threads or the rack housing. Inspect the exposed rack housing and inner tie rod for damage, excessive wear, or leaking grease. If the rack is leaking from seals, this boot replacement will not solve the problem and rack rebuild or replacement is needed.
9. 9

   Clean rack components
   Thoroughly clean the exposed rack housing boot seat, inner tie rod shaft, and surrounding areas using shop rags. Remove all old grease, dirt, and debris. Inspect the inner tie rod ball socket for excessive play or damage. The inner tie rod should have minimal perceptible movement when pushed and pulled by hand. Wipe clean with solvent if necessary and allow to dry.
10. 10

    Install new boots and inner clamps
    Slide the new boots onto the inner tie rod shafts from the outer end, positioning them fully onto the rack housing boot seat. Ensure the boot lip seats properly in the groove on the rack housing. Install the inner clamps (those securing boot to rack housing) and position them over the boot in the designated clamp groove. Tighten the clamps securely using boot clamp pliers or the appropriate tool for your clamp style (crimp, screw, or spring type). The boot should be sealed completely with no gaps.
11. 11

    Apply grease if specified
    Some rack and pinion boot kits include grease packets or specify adding chassis grease to the boot cavity. If your kit includes grease or specifies this step, inject the specified amount of grease into the boot before sealing the outer end. This typically ranges from 0.5 to 1 ounce per boot. Do not overfill as this can cause the boot to split under pressure. If no grease is specified with the kit, skip this step as the rack should retain adequate internal lubrication.
12. 12

    Reinstall outer tie rod ends
    Thread the outer tie rod ends back onto the inner tie rod shafts, using the rotation count recorded during disassembly. Thread each tie rod end on for the exact number of turns recorded (typically 18-22 turns). This returns the tie rod to its approximate original length. Verify the alignment marks made earlier are reasonably close.
13. 13

    Install outer boot clamps
    Position the outer end of each boot over the inner tie rod shaft where it meets the outer tie rod end. Ensure the boot is not twisted and sits properly in any groove or seat designed for it. Install the outer clamps over the boot in the designated position and tighten securely. Verify both boots are sealed at both ends with all 4 clamps properly installed and tightened.
14. 14

    Reconnect tie rod ends to steering knuckles
    Insert each outer tie rod end taper into the steering knuckle hole. Install the castle nuts and tighten them to the rack manufacturer's specification (commonly 35-45 ft-lb for aftermarket rack conversions; verify with your specific rack manufacturer's documentation). Tighten the castle nut until the next slot aligns with the cotter pin hole in the tie rod stud. Install new cotter pins and bend the ends to secure.
15. 15

    Tighten jam nuts
    Using two wrenches, tighten the jam nuts against the outer tie rod ends to lock them in position. Hold the inner tie rod flat section with one wrench while tightening the jam nut with the other. Tighten to the jam nut torque listed in your rack manufacturer's documentation; this value varies by manufacturer and must be verified for your specific kit.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern
2. Lower vehicle from jack stands using the floor jack
3. Once vehicle weight is on wheels, torque lug nuts to 80 ft-lb in a star pattern
4. Remove jack stands and lower jack completely
5. Remove wheel chocks

Verification

• Start engine and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly while stationary, checking for any binding or unusual noises
• Visually inspect both new boots for proper seating and verify no gaps exist at clamp locations
• Check that boots flex smoothly without tearing or popping off as steering is turned
• Have front end alignment checked at a qualified shop as soon as possible to verify toe settings were maintained during the procedure
• Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area and verify steering responds normally with no pulling or unusual feedback

More procedures for this vehicle