Replace damaged or broken wheel studs on a 1966 Chevrolet Corvette by removing the wheel hub, pressing out old studs, and installing new studs.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Wheel stud(s) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind wheels that will remain on the ground
3. Loosen lug nuts on the wheel where stud replacement is needed while vehicle is still on the ground (do not remove)
4. Raise vehicle with floor jack at appropriate jacking point for the corner being serviced
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
6. Remove loosened lug nuts and remove wheel

Procedure

1. 1

   Access the damaged wheel stud
   Rotate the hub assembly so the damaged stud is positioned for easiest access. On the front, you may need to turn the steering wheel to gain clearance. Inspect the stud to determine the extent of damage and confirm replacement is necessary.
2. 2

   Remove brake drum or rotor if necessary
   For rear wheels with drum brakes, note that on the 1966 Corvette the rear drum is retained over the axle flange/hub assembly; consult the service manual for the correct removal procedure as the rear axle/drum is not a simple slip-off design. For front disc brakes, the rotor can typically remain in place for stud replacement, but removing it provides better access. For front disc brakes, the rotor can typically remain in place for stud replacement, but removing it provides better access. If removing the front rotor, remove the two retaining screws and slide rotor off hub.
3. 3

   Support the hub assembly
   Position the hub assembly so the damaged stud can be driven out without damaging other components. Place a sturdy block of wood or metal under the hub to provide solid backing. Ensure the backside of the stud has clearance to pass through when driven out.
4. 4

   Drive out the damaged stud
   Using a ball peen hammer or small sledge, strike the front face of the stud firmly to drive it out through the back of the hub. The stud is press-fit with serrations and will require significant force. Continue striking until the stud is completely driven through and removed from the hub. If the stud is extremely tight, use a brass drift punch to drive the stud without damaging the hub bore while hammering.
5. 5

   Clean the stud hole
   Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the stud mounting hole in the hub, removing any rust, debris, or metal shavings. Inspect the hole for damage such as wallowing or cracks. The hole must be clean and undamaged for the new stud to seat properly.
6. 6

   Insert the new wheel stud
   Insert the new wheel stud through the back side of the hub, pushing it through by hand as far as possible. The serrated shoulder of the stud should begin to engage in the hub mounting hole. Ensure the stud is started straight and not cocked at an angle.
7. 7

   Press the new stud into place
   Using a wheel stud press tool or hydraulic press, draw or press the stud fully into the hub until the serrated shoulder is completely seated and flush against the back of the hub mounting flange. If using the lug nut method, thread 4 flat washers onto the stud, install a lug nut, and tighten progressively to draw the stud into place. Alternate method: use an impact wrench with washers and lug nut to pull stud in, but be careful not to damage threads. The stud must be fully seated with no gap between the shoulder and hub.
8. 8

   Verify stud installation
   Inspect the installed stud from both front and back to confirm the serrated shoulder is completely seated against the hub face with no visible gap. The stud should be perpendicular to the hub face and not cocked at an angle. Attempt to move the stud by hand - it should be completely solid with no play or rotation.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall brake drum or rotor if removed, ensuring it seats properly on the hub
2. Install wheel onto hub, threading lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading on the new stud
3. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to proper specification (typically 70-80 ft-lbs for 1966 Corvette, but verify for your specific application)
4. Lower vehicle from jack stands and remove stands
5. With vehicle weight on ground, perform final torque on all lug nuts in star pattern
6. Recheck lug nut torque after driving 50-100 miles to ensure new stud has not shifted

Verification

• Confirm new wheel stud is fully seated with no gap between shoulder and hub face
• Verify stud does not rotate or have any play when tested by hand
• Check that lug nuts thread smoothly onto new stud without binding or cross-threading
• Test drive vehicle and verify no unusual vibration or noise from the wheel
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving

More procedures for this vehicle