brakes
Brake Caliper - Rear
for 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3L V8 EcoTec3 L83 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
11
Steps
11
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L V8, including brake line disconnection, caliper removal, installation, bleeding, and verification.
Warnings
⚠️BRAKE SYSTEM: This is a safety-critical system. Improper repair can result in complete brake failure, causing severe injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, stop and seek professional assistance.
⚠️Never allow the brake master cylinder to run dry during this procedure. This will introduce air into the ABS system requiring specialized scan tool bleeding.
⚠️Do not drive the vehicle until brake system is fully bled, tested with pedal firmness check, and verified with a low-speed brake test in a safe area.
⚠DOT 4 brake fluid is corrosive to paint and toxic. Avoid skin contact and immediately flush any spills on painted surfaces with water.
⚠Use only new copper crush washers on brake line connections. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks.
ℹ️This procedure requires brake system bleeding. Have a helper available or use a one-person bleeding kit.
Tools required
Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)Essential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Thread locker (medium strength)Essential
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Parts
- Rear brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — ACDelco 18R12618 (left) or 18R12619 (right)
- Brake hose copper crush washers × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Caliper mounting bolts (if corroded) × 2 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- ACDelco DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground, place transmission in Park, and engage parking brake firmly
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight at frame rail jacking points
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Remove approximately half the brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or siphon to prevent overflow when compressing caliper piston
- Inspect brake rotor for excessive wear, warping, or scoring - replace if necessary while caliper is removed
- Have all replacement parts, new copper washers, and brake fluid ready before disconnecting brake lines
Procedure
- 1Position brake fluid catch containerPlace a catch container under the brake caliper area to capture brake fluid that will drain when the brake hose is disconnected. Position absorbent towels around the work area to catch any spills.
- 2Disconnect brake hose from caliperUsing a brake line wrench (flare nut wrench), carefully loosen the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the caliper. Hold the caliper steady to prevent twisting the brake hose. Once loose, remove the banjo bolt completely and pull the brake hose away from the caliper. Allow fluid to drain into the catch container. Discard the old copper crush washers - do not reuse them. Immediately plug the brake hose end with a clean rubber cap or tape to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.⚠Brake fluid will drain immediately when the banjo bolt is loosened. Keep catch container positioned correctly.
- 3Remove caliper mounting boltsLocate the two caliper mounting bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly (these secure the caliper to the bracket). Using an 18mm socket or wrench, remove both caliper bolts completely. These bolts thread into the caliper bracket from the rear. If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak before attempting removal.ℹ️On 2014-2018 Silverado rear calipers, the mounting bolts may have thread locker from factory and require more force to break free.
- 4Remove old caliperWith both mounting bolts removed, carefully lift the caliper off the brake rotor and bracket. The caliper will pivot upward and away from the rotor. Remove the caliper completely from the vehicle. Inspect the brake pads if they remain in the bracket - if replacing caliper due to seized piston, replace pads as well.
- 5Inspect caliper bracket and hardwareWith caliper removed, inspect the caliper bracket for damage, excessive rust, or wear. Check the caliper slide pin boots (if applicable to this caliper design) for tears or damage. Clean the bracket mounting surfaces with a wire brush. If bracket is damaged or excessively worn, it should be replaced.
- 6Prepare new caliper for installationRemove the new caliper from packaging. Verify it matches the old caliper (driver side vs passenger side - calipers are not interchangeable). If the caliper piston is not already retracted, use a C-clamp or caliper compression tool to fully compress the piston into the caliper bore. This creates clearance for installation over the brake pads and rotor. Ensure bleeder screw is closed (threaded in finger tight).
- 7Install new caliper onto bracketPosition the new caliper over the brake rotor and align with the caliper bracket mounting holes. Ensure brake pads are properly seated in the bracket if they were removed. The caliper should slide smoothly into position. If excessive force is needed, the piston may not be fully compressed.
- 8Install and torque caliper mounting boltsApply medium-strength thread locker to the threads of the caliper mounting bolts. Insert both bolts through the rear of the caliper into the bracket. Thread bolts in by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench and 18mm socket, torque both caliper mounting bolts to specification in an alternating pattern (tighten each bolt partially, then go back and torque to final spec).⚠Thread locker is required on caliper mounting bolts to prevent loosening from vibration. Do not skip this step.
- 9Connect brake hose to new caliperInstall NEW copper crush washers onto the banjo bolt (one washer on each side of the banjo fitting). Position the brake hose banjo fitting onto the caliper inlet port, ensuring proper alignment. Insert the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread into the caliper by hand. Using a brake line wrench and torque wrench, torque the banjo bolt to specification. Do not overtighten as this can strip the aluminum caliper threads.⚠New copper crush washers are mandatory. Old washers will not seal properly and will cause brake fluid leaks.
- 10Bleed rear brake caliperAttach clear tubing to the caliper bleeder screw and route into a clean brake fluid catch bottle. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure. Close bleeder screw before pedal reaches floor. Repeat this process until clear brake fluid with no air bubbles flows from the bleeder. Check master cylinder reservoir frequently and maintain fluid level above MIN mark throughout bleeding process. After bleeding is complete, torque bleeder screw to specification.⚠️Never allow master cylinder to run empty during bleeding. This introduces air into ABS system requiring specialized dealer equipment to bleed.⚠Bleeder screw is brass and easily damaged. Torque to specification - do not overtighten.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleClean wheel mounting surface on hub with wire brush. Position wheel onto hub and install all lug nuts by hand. Using a torque wrench, torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (tighten opposite nuts in sequence). Lower vehicle from jack stands to ground, then perform final lug nut torque verification in star pattern with vehicle on ground.
Reassembly
- Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh ACDelco DOT 4 brake fluid
- Pump brake pedal multiple times until firm pedal is achieved - pedal should not sink to floor
- Inspect all brake line connections at the caliper for any signs of fluid leakage
- Verify bleeder screw is fully tightened and not leaking
- Clean any spilled brake fluid from wheel, caliper, and rotor with water
Verification
- With vehicle still on jack stands or in safe position, verify brake pedal is firm with no sinking when pressure is applied for 30 seconds - sinking indicates air in system or leak
- Visually inspect brake hose banjo bolt connection and bleeder screw for any signs of brake fluid seepage or dripping
- Rotate the wheel by hand to ensure caliper is not dragging on rotor excessively (some light contact is normal)
- Start engine and pump brakes several times - pedal should remain firm with engine running
- Before driving, perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (empty parking lot) at 5-10 mph to verify brakes engage properly
- Test brakes at progressively higher speeds in safe area, verifying straight stops with no pulling to either side
- After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks and verify lug nuts are properly torqued
- Monitor brake pedal feel over the next several days - any change in pedal firmness indicates air in system or leak requiring immediate attention
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P1850Brake Band Apply Solenoid CircuitP3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →