suspension

Lower Control Arm - Rear

for 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3L V8 EcoTec3 L83 · RWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.6 h
Tools
14
Steps
16
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear lower control arm on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with 5.3L V8 engine, including disconnecting the ball joint and control arm mounting bolts.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
Control arm bolts must be torqued with the vehicle weight on the suspension to avoid binding and premature bushing failure.
The ball joint separator can damage the ball joint boot. If reusing components, use a tie rod puller instead of a pickle fork.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake
  2. Chock the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement
  3. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on the ground (do not remove)
  4. Raise rear of vehicle and support with jack stands under the frame rails
  5. Remove the rear wheel on the side being serviced
  6. Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Support the rear axle
    Position a floor jack under the rear axle housing near the control arm mounting point. Raise jack until it just contacts the axle to support its weight but does not lift the vehicle. This prevents the axle from dropping when the control arm is disconnected.
  2. 2
    Remove the ball joint cotter pin
    Locate the ball joint nut where the lower control arm connects to the rear knuckle/spindle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers or a cotter pin removal tool. Discard the old cotter pin as a new one will be installed.
  3. 3
    Remove the ball joint nut
    Using a 21mm socket, remove the ball joint castle nut from the ball joint stud. Do not remove completely yet; leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and prevent the knuckle from dropping suddenly when the taper breaks.
  4. 4
    Separate the ball joint
    Insert a ball joint separator or pickle fork between the control arm and the knuckle at the ball joint. Strike the separator firmly with a hammer to break the tapered connection. Once the taper breaks, remove the ball joint nut completely and remove the separator. Lower the knuckle away from the control arm ball joint stud.
    Strike the separator tool, not the ball joint stud or control arm directly to avoid damage.
  5. 5
    Mark control arm position
    Before removing the control arm mounting bolts, mark the position of the control arm and any adjustment shims or cams with a paint marker. This helps maintain the rear suspension alignment during reinstallation.
  6. 6
    Remove front control arm bolt
    Using an 18mm socket and breaker bar, remove the front control arm mounting bolt that connects the control arm to the frame. Note the orientation of the bolt and any washers or spacers. You may need to use a wrench on the opposite side to hold the nut while removing the bolt.
  7. 7
    Remove rear control arm bolt
    Using an 18mm socket and breaker bar, remove the rear control arm mounting bolt that connects the control arm to the axle housing. Note the orientation of the bolt and any washers or spacers. Support the control arm as the last bolt is removed to prevent it from falling.
  8. 8
    Remove the control arm
    With both mounting bolts removed, maneuver the lower control arm out of the vehicle. Inspect the mounting points on the frame and axle housing for rust, damage, or debris. Clean mounting surfaces with a wire brush if needed.
  9. 9
    Prepare new control arm
    Compare the new control arm to the old one to verify correct part. Check that the ball joint moves freely but without excessive play. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the threads of the mounting bolts to prevent future corrosion.
  10. 10
    Install new control arm
    Position the new lower control arm into place, aligning it with the mounting points on the frame and axle housing. Ensure any alignment shims or cams are positioned as marked during removal. Insert both control arm mounting bolts finger-tight but do not torque yet.
  11. 11
    Connect ball joint to knuckle
    Raise the floor jack slightly to lift the knuckle and align the ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud through the knuckle. Thread the castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten until snug, ensuring the ball joint taper is properly seated.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Torque ball joint nut and install cotter pin
    Torque the ball joint castle nut to specification. The castle nut slots must align with the cotter pin hole in the stud. If alignment is not perfect, tighten the nut slightly more (never loosen) until the next slot aligns. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends to secure.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the rear wheel back onto the hub. Thread all lug nuts on by hand, then snug them in a star pattern with a socket. Do not torque the lug nuts yet.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Lower vehicle to load suspension
    Carefully raise the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands from under the frame. Lower the vehicle so the full weight is on the suspension and wheels are on the ground. Leave the floor jack under the vehicle but not supporting weight. This step is critical as the control arm bolts must be torqued with the suspension at normal ride height.
    Control arm bolts must be torqued at ride height. Torquing with suspension hanging will bind bushings and cause premature failure.
  15. 15
    Torque control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle weight on the suspension, torque both control arm mounting bolts (front and rear) to specification. Ensure a backup wrench is used on the nut side if necessary.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  16. 16
    Final torque wheel lug nuts
    Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Perform a final visual inspection of all connections and ensure no tools or parts are left under the vehicle.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts169 Nm (125 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification in the correct sequence
  2. Verify the new cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent removal
  3. Double-check that control arm bolts were torqued with vehicle weight on suspension

Verification

  • Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises or vibrations from the rear suspension
  • Inspect all connections for proper seating and torque after 50-100 miles of driving
  • Have a professional wheel alignment performed to ensure proper rear suspension geometry and tire wear characteristics

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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