1968 DODGE CHARGER

Typical onset: 60,000-90,000 mi or unknown history

Symptoms: Rattling on cold start that fades after warm-up, Hard starting or won't stay running, Backfiring through carburetor, Loss of power and rough idle, Metal shavings in oil pan

Fix: Single-row factory chains stretch badly. Replace with double-roller timing set, new gears, and front seal while front cover is off. 318/340: 4-6 hours. 383/440: 5-7 hours. 426 Hemi: 8-12 hours due to complexity and clearance issues. Always inspect distributor gear and cam for wear.

Estimated cost: $800-1,500 (small-block); $1,200-2,800 (big-block); $2,500-5,000 (Hemi)

Symptoms: Front end sits noticeably low, uneven side-to-side, Clunking over bumps from loose adjuster bolts, Poor handling and excessive body roll, Surface rust or pitting visible on exposed bar ends

Fix: Torsion bars rust from road salt and moisture, losing tension over decades. Replacement requires supporting front end, unloading bars, removing lower control arm pivot, and sliding bars out rearward. Highly seized on original cars. 6-10 hours both sides including alignment. Upgrade bushings and ball joints while you're there.

Estimated cost: $1,200-2,200

Symptoms: Visible holes or soft spots in driver/passenger floor pans, Trunk floor deterioration around wheel wells and spare tire well, Rust jacking along rocker panels, Fuel tank strap failure from rusted mounting points

Fix: B-bodies rot from the bottom up, especially in salt states. Full floor pan replacement requires interior removal, cutting out old metal, welding in patch panels or full pan sections. Trunk floor and wheel well repair adds complexity. Quality work: 20-40+ hours depending on extent. This is structural—don't band-aid it with fiberglass.

Estimated cost: $3,500-8,000+ (depends heavily on rust extent)

Symptoms: Raw fuel smell in engine bay, Fuel weeping from bowl gaskets or accelerator pump, Hard starting when hot, Flat spots on acceleration, Black smoke and poor fuel economy

Fix: Original Carter carbs have aged gaskets, worn throttle shafts, and gunked passages. Full rebuild kit with proper ethanol-resistant parts: 3-5 hours including removal, cleaning, reassembly, and tuning on car. Many shops sub this out or recommend Edelbrock replacement (bolt-on, $400-600). Proper rebuild outlasts cheap rebuilds.

Estimated cost: $450-900 (rebuild); $650-1,100 (new Edelbrock installed)

Symptoms: Complete pedal loss with any hydraulic leak, Soft pedal that goes to floor, No braking safety redundancy, Master cylinder weeping brake fluid

Fix: 1968 was last year before dual-circuit systems. Any leak = total brake failure. Master cylinder rebuilds rarely hold; replacement is standard. Many owners convert to later dual-reservoir master with proportioning valve and residual valves. Stock replacement: 2-3 hours. Dual-circuit upgrade: 6-10 hours with line fabrication and bleeding.

Estimated cost: $350-700 (stock); $800-1,600 (dual upgrade)

Symptoms: Door alignment issues that worsen over time, Gaps between door and A-pillar changing, Stress cracks in windshield corners, Dashboard pulling away from A-pillars

Fix: The 1968-70 Charger dash frame is spot-welded to the firewall and can crack at stress points, especially on cars with heavy engines. Proper fix requires dash removal, reinforcement plating welded in. 12-20 hours. Often discovered during restoration. Not a daily-driver emergency but affects structural rigidity and resale.

Estimated cost: $1,800-3,500

Symptoms: Ammeter pegged or not working, Burning smell from dash, Bulkhead connector melting or discolored, Voltage fluctuations, Complete electrical loss

Fix: Factory ammeter routes full alternator output through dash gauge and bulkhead connector—both frequent failure points. Bulkhead terminals corrode and overheat under modern alternator loads. Proper fix: ammeter bypass with voltmeter conversion, bulkhead connector cleaning/re-pinning, and charging wire upgrade. 4-6 hours. Fire risk if ignored.

Estimated cost: $400-900