1970 DODGE MONACO

Typical onset: 80,000-120,000 mi

Symptoms: Rattling noise on cold starts that disappears when warm, Rough idle or hesitation, Check timing and it's retarded 4-8 degrees despite setting distributor, Hard starting when hot

Fix: Replace timing chain, gears, and tensioner. Chrysler chains stretch notoriously on these engines. Budget 4-6 hours labor depending on accessories and A/C. Must verify camshaft end-play while in there. On 440s, check for worn cam lobes while accessible.

Estimated cost: $450-850

Symptoms: Black smoke on acceleration, Fuel smell in garage after sitting, Stumble off idle or during turns, Hard cold starts, flooding, Gas puddle in intake valley after sitting

Fix: Rebuild carb with quality kit (avoid cheap offshore kits). Carter AFB/AVS or Holley 2bbl depending on engine. Float levels critical—ethanol fuel destroys original cork floats and swells old rubber parts. Accelerator pump circuit often plugged. 2-3 hours bench work plus tuning time.

Estimated cost: $300-600

Typical onset: 70,000-150,000 mi

Symptoms: Clunking over bumps, Wandering steering, Uneven tire wear on inside edges, Ride height drops on one side, Loose or rattling feeling in front end

Fix: Lower control arm bushings rot out, especially rear pivot. Torsion bar hex adjusters corrode into crossmember—sometimes need torch and sawzall. Must inspect frame rails for rust-through before starting job. Plan 8-10 hours if you're replacing both LCAs, bushings, and dealing with seized adjusters. Alignment mandatory after.

Estimated cost: $800-1,400

Typical onset: 60,000-100,000 mi

Symptoms: Pedal slowly sinks to floor when held at stoplight, Brake fluid disappearing with no visible leaks, Spongy pedal that doesn't improve with bleeding, Fluid dripping on booster or inner fender

Fix: Original single-reservoir master cylinders leak internally past primary cup. Rebuild kits available but replacement recommended. Smart owners upgrade to dual-reservoir unit from '71-up for safety. 2-3 hours with bench bleeding and system purge. Check booster function while you're there.

Estimated cost: $250-450

Symptoms: Transmission won't downshift for passing, Late or early upshifts, Hanging in 2nd gear too long, Sluggish acceleration, Worn plastic pivot balls or bent rods

Fix: Worn or disconnected kickdown linkage prevents proper shift scheduling and TV pressure. Plastic ball joints crack, return springs break, or rods bend from careless mechanics. Adjustment critical—too tight causes late shifts and heat, too loose causes slip and flare. 1-2 hours to inspect, replace worn bits, and adjust properly.

Estimated cost: $150-300

Symptoms: Fuel gauge reads empty or pegged full regardless of level, Rust particles clogging fuel filter repeatedly, Stalling or hesitation after sitting, Visible rust flakes in filter or carb bowl

Fix: Original steel tanks rust from inside out, especially if car sat with old fuel. Sending unit float arms corrode and hang up. Tank removal requires dropping exhaust and fuel lines—plan 4-5 hours. Most owners replace with reproduction tank and new sending unit rather than cleaning. Consider inline filter upgrade.

Estimated cost: $500-900

Symptoms: Ammeter pegged or fluctuating wildly, Smell of burning plastic near firewall, Intermittent electrical failures, Melted or discolored bulkhead connector, Voltage drop under load

Fix: Factory ammeter design routes full alternator current through bulkhead connector and gauge. Connector terminals corrode or overheat, creating resistance and heat. Proper fix involves bypassing ammeter with voltmeter conversion and MAD Electrical-style relay setup. Half-measure: disassemble, clean, and dielectric grease all terminals. 3-5 hours for proper conversion.

Estimated cost: $200-500