Free API
suspension

Ball Joints - Upper and Lower

for 1994–2007 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both upper and lower ball joints on the front suspension of a 1994-2007 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.9L Cummins diesel engine and 4WD.

Warnings

⚠️This vehicle is extremely heavy. Ensure jack stands are rated for at least 3 tons each and are positioned on solid frame contact points. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
⚠️Suspension components are under tension and can release suddenly. Do not place any body parts in the path of suspension travel during disassembly.
⚠Ball joint pressing requires substantial force. Ensure the press is properly aligned to avoid component damage or personal injury.
ℹ️Replacing ball joints on one side may reveal wear on the opposite side. Inspect both sides carefully before beginning work.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  3. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands positioned under the frame rails
  4. Remove both front wheels
  5. Spray all ball joint nuts, control arm bolts, and related fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-30 minutes
  6. Position a floor jack under the lower control arm to support suspension weight during disassembly

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake caliper and rotor
    Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and hang the caliper from the frame using a wire or bungee cord to prevent strain on the brake hose. Do not let the caliper hang by the hose. Remove the brake rotor by pulling it straight off the hub. If rotor is stuck, use penetrating oil and tap with a hammer on the face while rotating.
  2. 2
    Disconnect tie rod end
    Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut. Loosen but do not remove the castle nut. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle. Remove the nut and swing the tie rod end out of the way. This provides clearance for knuckle movement.
  3. 3
    Support the knuckle assembly
    Position the floor jack directly under the axle tube near the knuckle to support the weight of the knuckle and hub assembly. Raise the jack slightly to compress the suspension and relieve tension on the upper ball joint. The jack must remain in place throughout the ball joint removal process.
    ⚠The knuckle assembly is heavy and will drop when ball joints are separated. Keep the jack positioned to catch the weight.
  4. 4
    Remove upper ball joint nut
    Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Using a breaker bar and appropriate socket, remove the upper ball joint nut completely. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper between the ball joint stud and the knuckle. Strike the separator firmly with a hammer until the joint releases. The knuckle will drop slightly onto the lower ball joint when the upper releases.
    ⚠Do not strike the ball joint stud threads with a hammer as this will damage the threads and prevent nut installation.
  5. 5
    Remove lower ball joint nut
    Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Remove the lower ball joint nut while supporting the knuckle with the floor jack. Use the ball joint separator to break the taper on the lower ball joint. Once separated, carefully lower the jack and remove the entire knuckle/hub assembly from the vehicle. Set aside on a clean work surface.
  6. 6
    Press out old upper ball joint
    Verify whether this axle uses press-fit or threaded (screw-in) ball joints before proceeding. For press-fit designs, position the component in the ball joint press with the joint supported from below, select the appropriate receiver cup, and press the joint out. For threaded upper ball joints (common on Dana 60 solid front axles), unscrew the upper joint using the correct socket/adapter rather than pressing. Clean the bore thoroughly with a wire brush after removal.ughly with a wire brush after removal.
    ⚠Ensure the control arm is properly supported in the press to prevent slipping or binding during the pressing operation.
  7. 7
    Press in new upper ball joint
    Inspect the control arm bore for damage or corrosion. Apply a thin coating of anti-seize to the outer diameter of the new ball joint housing (not the stud or taper). Position the new ball joint in the control arm bore with the grease fitting facing the correct direction (typically outward). Use the ball joint press to push the new joint into the bore until it is fully seated and bottoms out. The joint should be flush or slightly recessed per manufacturer specifications.
  8. 8
    Press out old lower ball joint
    Position the lower control arm in the ball joint press. The lower ball joint typically presses out from the top side downward. Select appropriate press adapters and receiver cups for the lower ball joint size. Press the old ball joint out of the control arm and clean the bore thoroughly with a wire brush and solvent.
  9. 9
    Press in new lower ball joint
    Apply anti-seize to the outer housing of the new lower ball joint. Position the ball joint in the control arm bore with the grease fitting oriented correctly. Press the new ball joint into place until fully seated. Verify that the ball joint housing is flush with the control arm and properly bottomed in the bore.
  10. 10
    Install knuckle to lower ball joint
    Position the floor jack under the lower control arm. Lift the knuckle assembly into position and align the lower ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar to align the holes. Thread the castle nut onto the lower ball joint stud and tighten to specification. The taper should seat properly as the nut is tightened.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Install knuckle to upper ball joint
    Raise the floor jack to compress the suspension and align the upper ball joint stud with the knuckle hole. Thread the castle nut onto the upper ball joint stud and tighten to specification. Verify that both upper and lower ball joint tapers are fully seated in the knuckle.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Install cotter pins
    Install new cotter pins through the castle nuts on both upper and lower ball joints. The castellations must align with the holes in the studs. If they do not align, tighten the nut slightly (never loosen) until a castellation aligns. Bend the cotter pin ends over to secure. Ensure cotter pins are fully engaged and cannot back out.
  13. 13
    Reconnect tie rod end
    Position the tie rod end stud into the knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure. Verify the tie rod boot is not damaged and is properly seated.
  14. 14
    Reinstall brake components
    Reinstall the brake rotor onto the hub. Remove the caliper from its support wire and position it over the rotor. Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque to specification. Pump the brake pedal several times to restore caliper piston position before moving the vehicle.
  15. 15
    Install wheels and torque lug nuts
    Install the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and perform a final torque check on all lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Repeat the entire procedure for the opposite side if replacing both sides
  2. Grease all ball joint fittings with a grease gun until new grease appears at the boot seal
  3. Inspect all suspension components for wear or damage while accessible
  4. Check that all cotter pins are properly installed and secured

Verification

  • Start the engine and turn the steering wheel full lock in both directions while stationary to verify no binding or interference
  • Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking, popping, or unusual noises from the front suspension
  • After the first 50-100 miles, re-torque all ball joint nuts and wheel lug nuts to specification
  • Have the front end alignment checked and adjusted by a qualified shop as ball joint replacement will affect alignment settings
  • Inspect for any leaking grease at ball joint boots indicating improper installation or damaged boots
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