Clutch Cable

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the clutch cable on a 1994-2007 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.9L Cummins diesel engine and manual transmission.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Clutch cable assembly × 1 — Use OEM Mopar or quality aftermarket
• Clutch cable firewall grommet × 1 — Often included with cable

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands
4. Allow engine to cool completely if recently driven

Procedure

1. 1

   Access clutch pedal assembly
   From inside the cab, locate the clutch pedal and cable connection point at the top of the pedal arm. Remove the driver's side lower dash panel if present for better access. Use a flashlight to identify the cable end and retaining clip at the pedal.
2. 2

   Disconnect cable from clutch pedal
   Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal arm by removing the retaining clip and pin at the pedal. Note that this is a hydraulic system, not a cable.
3. 3

   Remove firewall grommet
   From inside the cab, pull the rubber firewall grommet away from the firewall opening. Push the cable housing forward through the firewall into the engine compartment. You may need to rotate and manipulate the grommet to free it from the firewall.
4. 4

   Locate cable at transmission bell housing
   Working from underneath the vehicle, locate the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder mounted to the transmission bell housing, which actuates the clutch fork. Clean the area with a wire brush if corroded.
5. 5

   Disconnect cable from clutch fork
   Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder (or remove the slave cylinder mounting bolts from the bell housing bracket). Be prepared for hydraulic fluid loss.
6. 6

   Remove cable routing clips
   Trace the cable path from the transmission forward to the firewall. Remove any plastic clips, metal brackets, or ties securing the cable to the frame, transmission, or engine block. Common mounting points are along the driver's side frame rail and near the steering box.
7. 7

   Extract old cable
   Pull the cable forward and down from the engine compartment, carefully routing it away from the frame and steering components. Remove the cable completely from the vehicle. Inspect the routing path for any sharp edges or wear points that should be addressed.
8. 8

   Prepare new cable
   Compare the new clutch cable to the old one to verify correct length and end fittings. Install the new firewall grommet onto the cable housing if not pre-installed. Apply a light coating of grease to the cable end barrels.
9. 9

   Route new cable
   From underneath the vehicle, route the new cable from the transmission area forward along the driver's side frame rail, following the same path as the original. Ensure the cable does not contact the exhaust, driveshaft, or steering components. Insert the cable housing through the firewall opening from the engine compartment side.
10. 10

    Secure cable routing
    Reinstall all cable routing clips and brackets along the frame and transmission, ensuring the cable is properly supported and cannot contact moving or hot components. The cable should have minimal slack but not be stretched tight.
11. 11

    Connect cable to clutch fork
    At the transmission bell housing, reinstall the slave cylinder and reconnect the hydraulic line. Ensure mounting bolts and line fitting are secure.
12. 12

    Install firewall grommet
    From inside the cab, pull the cable housing through until the firewall grommet seats properly in the firewall opening. Ensure the grommet is fully seated and sealed to prevent water and exhaust intrusion.
13. 13

    Connect cable to clutch pedal
    Reconnect the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal arm and install the retaining pin and clip. After all hydraulic connections are made, bleed the clutch hydraulic system to remove air before testing pedal operation.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall driver's side lower dash panel if removed
2. Lower vehicle from jack stands
3. Remove wheel chocks

Verification

• Depress clutch pedal multiple times to verify smooth operation with no binding or excessive free play
• With engine off and transmission in neutral, verify clutch pedal returns fully to the top stop position
• Start engine and verify clutch disengages properly by shifting through all gears
• Check for proper clutch engagement point approximately 1-2 inches from full pedal release
• Inspect cable routing from underneath vehicle to ensure no contact with exhaust or moving parts
• Test drive vehicle to confirm smooth clutch operation and complete disengagement during shifts

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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