Control Arm Bushing - Rear

This procedure covers the replacement of rear control arm bushings on a 1994-2007 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD with the 5.9L Cummins diesel engine, requiring removal of the control arms and pressing in new bushings.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing set (upper or lower as needed) × 2 — Moog K200836 or equivalent for lower, K200835 for upper
• Cotter pins (ball joint) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on ground (do not remove)
4. Raise rear of vehicle and support frame rails with jack stands - do NOT place stands under axle
5. Remove rear wheels completely
6. Apply penetrating lubricant to all control arm bolts and ball joint nuts, allow to soak 15-20 minutes
7. Identify which control arm (upper or lower) requires bushing replacement and verify correct replacement bushings are available

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear axle
   Position a floor jack under the rear axle housing near the control arm being serviced. Raise jack until it just contacts the axle but does not lift it. The axle must be supported to control its position when the control arm is disconnected, but should remain in a relaxed position to allow control arm removal.
2. 2

   Remove ball joint cotter pin and nut
   Locate the ball joint connection at the axle end of the control arm. Remove and discard the cotter pin using a cotter pin puller or side cutters. Using the appropriate socket, remove the ball joint nut completely. Note that some models may have a castle nut while others use a standard nylock nut.
3. 3

   Separate ball joint from axle
   Install a ball joint separator tool (pickle fork or dedicated separator) between the ball joint stud and the axle mounting point. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer or tighten the separator screw until the ball joint pops free from the taper. The separation will be sudden - maintain control of the tool. If using a pickle fork, note that this will likely destroy the ball joint boot.
   ⚠Ball joint will separate suddenly. Keep hands clear of pinch points between control arm and axle.
4. 4

   Remove frame-end control arm bolts
   Locate the control arm mounting bolts at the frame bracket. These are typically large bolts with nuts on the backside. Use a breaker bar and socket to remove both the front and rear mounting bolts (or single pivot bolt depending on arm design). Support the control arm as you remove the final bolt to prevent it from falling. The control arm can now be removed from the vehicle.
5. 5

   Inspect control arm and mark bushing orientation
   With control arm removed, thoroughly inspect it for cracks, bends, or damage. Clean the bushing mounting areas with a wire brush. Before pressing out old bushings, mark their orientation with a paint marker or take photos - some bushings have specific directional installation requirements. Note the position of any offset or void areas in the rubber.
6. 6

   Press out old bushings
   Using a hydraulic press or control arm bushing press kit, press the old bushings out of the control arm. Select the appropriate receiver cup that is slightly larger than the bushing outer diameter. Position the control arm on the press bed, align the driver on the bushing center, and slowly apply pressure. The bushing should press out smoothly - if excessive force is required, verify alignment. Repeat for all bushings on the arm.
   ⚠️Ensure control arm is properly supported and aligned in press. Misalignment can cause arm to shift suddenly under pressure.
7. 7

   Clean bushing bores
   With old bushings removed, clean the bushing mounting bores thoroughly with a wire brush and clean rag. Remove all rust, dirt, and old rubber residue. Inspect bores for damage or distortion. The new bushings must fit snugly but should not require excessive force to install if bores are clean and undamaged.
8. 8

   Press in new bushings
   Apply a light coating of dish soap or rubber lubricant to the outer sleeve of the new bushings (do NOT use petroleum-based lubricant). Align the bushing in the bore according to the orientation marks made during removal. Using the press, slowly drive the new bushing into the bore until it is fully seated and flush with the control arm mounting surface. Verify the bushing is centered and not cocked in the bore. Repeat for all bushings.
9. 9

   Reinstall control arm to frame
   Position the control arm back into the frame mounting brackets. Insert the frame-end mounting bolts but do NOT fully tighten them yet - only thread them enough to hold the arm in place. The bolts must remain loose until the vehicle is at ride height with weight on the suspension.
10. 10

    Connect ball joint to axle
    Lower or raise the axle using the floor jack to align the ball joint stud with the mounting hole in the axle. Insert the ball joint stud into the taper. Install the ball joint nut and tighten to specification. The nut must be torqued to 65 ft-lbs and a new cotter pin must be installed through the castle nut slots (or use new nylock nut if so equipped).
11. 11

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and thread lug nuts on by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground but the suspension is not yet compressed. Torque the lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs in a star pattern. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle completely so that full vehicle weight is on the suspension.
12. 12

    Final torque control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle on the ground at normal ride height, crawl under the vehicle and torque the control arm frame mounting bolts to 122 ft-lbs. This step is critical - torquing the bushing bolts with the suspension hanging will pre-load the bushings and cause premature failure. Ensure vehicle weight is fully on the wheels before final torque.
    ⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at ride height with vehicle weight on suspension. Failure to do so will twist bushings and cause premature wear.

Reassembly

1. Verify all fasteners have been torqued to specification
2. Confirm new cotter pins are installed and properly bent on ball joint nuts
3. Remove floor jack from under axle
4. Double-check wheel lug nuts are torqued to 100 ft-lbs in star pattern

Verification

• Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or abnormal noises from rear suspension
• Check for proper tracking and alignment - vehicle should drive straight with no pull
• After 50-100 miles, re-torque control arm bolts to 122 ft-lbs to account for bushing settling
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment as control arm removal may have affected rear axle positioning

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

More procedures for this vehicle