suspension
Trailing Arm Bushing
for 1994–2007 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.5 h
Tools
14
Steps
14
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace worn trailing arm bushings on the rear suspension to restore proper axle alignment and eliminate clunking noises.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use rated jack stands on solid, level ground.
⚠Trailing arm bolt heads may be severely rusted on 1994-2007 models. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before starting if possible.
⚠The rear axle assembly is heavy and will shift when trailing arms are disconnected. Ensure axle is properly supported.
ℹ️Pressing out old bushings requires significant force. A hydraulic press is strongly recommended over portable bushing tools.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands rated for 3 tons minimumEssential
Torque wrench (0-200 lb-ft range)Essential
19mm socketEssential
21mm socketEssential
24mm socketEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry barEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
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Parts
- Trailing arm bushing kit (front and rear bushings) × 2 — Use OEM specification or Moog K200847
- Cotter pin × 2 — 1/8 inch diameter
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level concrete surface and chock front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support frame rails with jack stands rated for at least 3 tons each
- Remove rear wheels completely
- Support rear axle with floor jack positioned under differential housing to prevent axle from dropping
- Spray all trailing arm bolts and nuts with penetrating oil and allow to soak
Procedure
- 1Remove sway bar link connectionLocate the sway bar end link where it connects to the trailing arm bracket. Hold the stud with an Allen/hex key inserted in the stud end and use the appropriate socket to remove the nut. Disconnect the sway bar link from the trailing arm. This provides clearance to work on the trailing arm.
- 2Remove trailing arm to frame boltLocate the large front mounting bolt connecting the trailing arm to the frame bracket. This is a large mounting bolt; verify head and nut sizes against factory service data before selecting sockets. Use a breaker bar to break loose the nut on the back side. Remove the bolt completely. The trailing arm will now pivot on the rear axle mount only.⚠This bolt may be severely seized. Do not use heat near brake lines or fuel lines.
- 3Remove trailing arm to axle boltLocate the rear mounting bolt connecting the trailing arm to the axle bracket. Verify head and nut sizes against factory service data before selecting sockets. Support the trailing arm with one hand or have an assistant hold it. Remove the bolt completely. The trailing arm is now free from the vehicle.⚠The trailing arm will drop when the bolt is removed. Control its descent to avoid damaging brake lines or ABS wiring.
- 4Inspect trailing arm and mounting pointsWith the trailing arm removed, inspect the arm itself for cracks, severe rust, or deformation. Check frame and axle mounting brackets for damage or excessive rust. Wire brush all mounting surfaces clean. If the trailing arm is bent or cracked, replacement is required rather than just bushing replacement.
- 5Press out old front bushingPosition the trailing arm in a hydraulic press. The front bushing (frame end) is the larger of the two. Use an appropriately sized driver or socket that contacts only the outer metal shell of the bushing. Press the old bushing straight out of the trailing arm eye. If using a portable bushing tool, ensure it is centered and apply steady pressure with a C-clamp or threaded driver.⚠Ensure press driver contacts only the bushing shell, not the trailing arm material, to avoid damaging the arm.
- 6Press out old rear bushingReposition the trailing arm in the press to access the rear bushing (axle end). This is typically smaller than the front bushing. Press out the old bushing using the same technique. Clean the bushing bore thoroughly with a wire brush and inspect for damage or excessive wear that would prevent proper seating of new bushings.
- 7Install new front bushingApply a thin coat of dish soap or bushing lubricant to the outer shell of the new front bushing (do not use petroleum-based lubricants). Align the bushing squarely with the trailing arm eye. Press the bushing in until it is fully seated and flush with both sides of the arm. The bushing should press in evenly without cocking to one side.ℹ️Some bushings have orientation marks or voids that must align with load direction. Check manufacturer instructions.
- 8Install new rear bushingApply lubricant to the new rear bushing outer shell. Press into the rear eye of the trailing arm until fully seated. Verify the bushing is flush and evenly installed on both sides. Wipe away excess lubricant.
- 9Reinstall trailing arm to axle bracketLift the trailing arm into position and align the rear eye with the axle mounting bracket. Insert the bolt from the front side through the bracket, bushing, and bracket. Start the nut on the back side but do not torque yet. Leave the connection loose enough for the arm to pivot.
- 10Reinstall trailing arm to frame bracketPivot the trailing arm upward to align the front eye with the frame mounting bracket. You may need to use a pry bar or jack to align the holes. Insert the bolt through the bracket, bushing, and bracket. Start the nut on the back side but do not torque yet.
- 11Reconnect sway bar linkLift the sway bar end link into position and thread the nut onto the stud. Torque the sway bar link nut to specification while holding the stud with an Allen key to prevent spinning.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 12Lower vehicle to load suspensionRemove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle until the full weight is on the wheels but wheels are still slightly off the ground (use blocks under tires). This loads the suspension to the proper ride height position before final torquing. The bushings must be torqued at ride height to prevent premature wear.⚠Torquing suspension bushings with suspension hanging will cause binding and premature bushing failure.
- 13Torque trailing arm mounting boltsWith the vehicle weight on the suspension at ride height, torque both the front frame bolt and rear axle bolt. Torque both the front frame bolt and rear axle bolt to the factory-specified value for your Ram 2500 (verify in the service manual, as these large suspension bolts commonly require high torque). Verify both nuts are tight and bolts do not spin.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 14Install wheels and final torqueRaise vehicle slightly, install rear wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower vehicle completely to ground. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Repeat entire procedure for opposite side trailing arm if both sides require service
- Verify all fasteners are properly torqued and no tools or parts are left under vehicle
- Road test vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or unusual noises from rear suspension
Verification
- Test drive vehicle and verify elimination of clunking noises over bumps
- Check that vehicle tracks straight with no pulling to either side
- Visually inspect trailing arm bolts after 50-100 miles to verify they remain tight
- Consider alignment check if vehicle had significant bushing wear, as rear axle position may have shifted