Free API
suspension

Trailing Arm Bushing

for 1994–2007 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.5 h
Tools
14
Steps
14
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

Replace worn trailing arm bushings on the rear suspension to restore proper axle alignment and eliminate clunking noises.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use rated jack stands on solid, level ground.
Trailing arm bolt heads may be severely rusted on 1994-2007 models. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before starting if possible.
The rear axle assembly is heavy and will shift when trailing arms are disconnected. Ensure axle is properly supported.
ℹ️Pressing out old bushings requires significant force. A hydraulic press is strongly recommended over portable bushing tools.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface and chock front wheels
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  3. Raise rear of vehicle and support frame rails with jack stands rated for at least 3 tons each
  4. Remove rear wheels completely
  5. Support rear axle with floor jack positioned under differential housing to prevent axle from dropping
  6. Spray all trailing arm bolts and nuts with penetrating oil and allow to soak

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove sway bar link connection
    Locate the sway bar end link where it connects to the trailing arm bracket. Hold the stud with an Allen/hex key inserted in the stud end and use the appropriate socket to remove the nut. Disconnect the sway bar link from the trailing arm. This provides clearance to work on the trailing arm.
  2. 2
    Remove trailing arm to frame bolt
    Locate the large front mounting bolt connecting the trailing arm to the frame bracket. This is a large mounting bolt; verify head and nut sizes against factory service data before selecting sockets. Use a breaker bar to break loose the nut on the back side. Remove the bolt completely. The trailing arm will now pivot on the rear axle mount only.
    This bolt may be severely seized. Do not use heat near brake lines or fuel lines.
  3. 3
    Remove trailing arm to axle bolt
    Locate the rear mounting bolt connecting the trailing arm to the axle bracket. Verify head and nut sizes against factory service data before selecting sockets. Support the trailing arm with one hand or have an assistant hold it. Remove the bolt completely. The trailing arm is now free from the vehicle.
    The trailing arm will drop when the bolt is removed. Control its descent to avoid damaging brake lines or ABS wiring.
  4. 4
    Inspect trailing arm and mounting points
    With the trailing arm removed, inspect the arm itself for cracks, severe rust, or deformation. Check frame and axle mounting brackets for damage or excessive rust. Wire brush all mounting surfaces clean. If the trailing arm is bent or cracked, replacement is required rather than just bushing replacement.
  5. 5
    Press out old front bushing
    Position the trailing arm in a hydraulic press. The front bushing (frame end) is the larger of the two. Use an appropriately sized driver or socket that contacts only the outer metal shell of the bushing. Press the old bushing straight out of the trailing arm eye. If using a portable bushing tool, ensure it is centered and apply steady pressure with a C-clamp or threaded driver.
    Ensure press driver contacts only the bushing shell, not the trailing arm material, to avoid damaging the arm.
  6. 6
    Press out old rear bushing
    Reposition the trailing arm in the press to access the rear bushing (axle end). This is typically smaller than the front bushing. Press out the old bushing using the same technique. Clean the bushing bore thoroughly with a wire brush and inspect for damage or excessive wear that would prevent proper seating of new bushings.
  7. 7
    Install new front bushing
    Apply a thin coat of dish soap or bushing lubricant to the outer shell of the new front bushing (do not use petroleum-based lubricants). Align the bushing squarely with the trailing arm eye. Press the bushing in until it is fully seated and flush with both sides of the arm. The bushing should press in evenly without cocking to one side.
    ℹ️Some bushings have orientation marks or voids that must align with load direction. Check manufacturer instructions.
  8. 8
    Install new rear bushing
    Apply lubricant to the new rear bushing outer shell. Press into the rear eye of the trailing arm until fully seated. Verify the bushing is flush and evenly installed on both sides. Wipe away excess lubricant.
  9. 9
    Reinstall trailing arm to axle bracket
    Lift the trailing arm into position and align the rear eye with the axle mounting bracket. Insert the bolt from the front side through the bracket, bushing, and bracket. Start the nut on the back side but do not torque yet. Leave the connection loose enough for the arm to pivot.
  10. 10
    Reinstall trailing arm to frame bracket
    Pivot the trailing arm upward to align the front eye with the frame mounting bracket. You may need to use a pry bar or jack to align the holes. Insert the bolt through the bracket, bushing, and bracket. Start the nut on the back side but do not torque yet.
  11. 11
    Reconnect sway bar link
    Lift the sway bar end link into position and thread the nut onto the stud. Torque the sway bar link nut to specification while holding the stud with an Allen key to prevent spinning.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Lower vehicle to load suspension
    Remove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle until the full weight is on the wheels but wheels are still slightly off the ground (use blocks under tires). This loads the suspension to the proper ride height position before final torquing. The bushings must be torqued at ride height to prevent premature wear.
    Torquing suspension bushings with suspension hanging will cause binding and premature bushing failure.
  13. 13
    Torque trailing arm mounting bolts
    With the vehicle weight on the suspension at ride height, torque both the front frame bolt and rear axle bolt. Torque both the front frame bolt and rear axle bolt to the factory-specified value for your Ram 2500 (verify in the service manual, as these large suspension bolts commonly require high torque). Verify both nuts are tight and bolts do not spin.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Install wheels and final torque
    Raise vehicle slightly, install rear wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower vehicle completely to ground. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Repeat entire procedure for opposite side trailing arm if both sides require service
  2. Verify all fasteners are properly torqued and no tools or parts are left under vehicle
  3. Road test vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or unusual noises from rear suspension

Verification

  • Test drive vehicle and verify elimination of clunking noises over bumps
  • Check that vehicle tracks straight with no pulling to either side
  • Visually inspect trailing arm bolts after 50-100 miles to verify they remain tight
  • Consider alignment check if vehicle had significant bushing wear, as rear axle position may have shifted
🔧Stuck on this trailing arm bushing? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Dodge within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Built by master technician Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
🔓 LIBERATED FOREVER
The 1994–2007 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L I6 Cummins Diesel repair data is free for every DIYer and shop on earth, permanently, because Timmehster paid $99 to unlock it.
Mitchell1 charges $169/mo for this. ALLDATAdiy charges $30/yr per vehicle. Open Labor Project is free permanently, because of community sponsors like Timmehster.
Free another vehicle →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →