Brake Caliper - Rear

Remove and replace the rear brake caliper on a 1992 Dodge Viper, including bleeding the hydraulic system to restore safe braking function.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake line banjo bolt copper crush washers × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Fluids

• brake — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place wheel chocks on front wheels.
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts approximately 1/2 turn while vehicle is on the ground.
3. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated rear jacking point and secure with jack stands under rear suspension mounting points.
4. Remove rear wheel completely and set aside.
5. Place drip pan under brake caliper work area to catch brake fluid.
6. Locate master cylinder reservoir under hood and remove cap. Siphon or turkey-baster out approximately half the brake fluid to prevent overflow when caliper is removed (fluid level will rise when new caliper with retracted piston is installed).

Procedure

1. 1

   Clean brake line connection area
   Spray penetrating oil on the brake line banjo bolt at the caliper inlet and allow to soak for several minutes. Use a wire brush to clean corrosion and debris from around the banjo bolt and caliper body. This reduces risk of stripping the brake line fitting or introducing contamination into the hydraulic system.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hydraulic line
   Place drip pan directly under the caliper brake line connection. Using a flare nut wrench (typically 10mm or 11mm for the banjo bolt), loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper. Be prepared for brake fluid to drain from both the line and caliper. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo fitting. Immediately plug the open brake line with a rubber cap or wrap with plastic and rubber band to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt31 Nm (23 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove caliper slide pins or mounting bolts
   Locate the caliper mounting hardware. The rear caliper is secured by either slide pins or direct mounting bolts through the caliper body to the bracket. Remove the two fasteners securing the caliper to its mounting bracket. If corrosion is present, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak before applying force. The caliper is now free from the rotor and bracket.
4. 4

   Remove old caliper from vehicle
   Lift the caliper off the brake rotor and away from the mounting bracket. Inspect the caliper bracket, rotor surface, and pad hardware for damage or excessive wear. If bracket bolts will be removed for any reason, note that they require specific torque specifications and threadlocker upon reinstallation.
5. 5

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Remove the new caliper from packaging and verify it matches the old unit (left vs right side, mounting orientation, bleeder screw position). If the caliper piston is not fully retracted, use a C-clamp or piston compression tool to carefully compress it fully into the caliper bore. Ensure the dust boot is not pinched or damaged during compression. Remove the protective cap or plug from the caliper inlet port.
6. 6

   Install new caliper onto rotor and bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align the mounting holes with the bracket. Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper mounting fastener threads. Install and hand-tighten the two caliper mounting fasteners, then torque to specification using a torque wrench. Verify the caliper moves freely relative to the rotor without binding.
7. 7

   Reconnect brake hydraulic line
   Install one NEW copper crush washer on each side of the brake line banjo fitting. Position the banjo fitting into the caliper inlet port, ensuring the brake line is not twisted or kinked. Install the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread into the caliper by hand to avoid cross-threading. Torque the banjo bolt to the factory-specified value (verify in the service manual; typically in the range of 20-35 Nm / 15-26 lb-ft for a banjo fitting of this size) using a torque wrench. This is a critical safety specification—do not overtighten or undertighten.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt31 Nm (23 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Bleed rear brake caliper
   Locate the bleeder screw on the back of the caliper body (typically on the upper inboard side). Place a box-end wrench on the bleeder screw and attach clear tubing over the bleeder nipple, with the other end submerged in a clean catch bottle with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and hold. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn; fluid and air will flow through the tubing. Close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until clear, bubble-free fluid flows consistently (typically 5-10 pumps). Check and top off the master cylinder reservoir between every 3-4 bleeds to prevent introducing air. After final bleed, torque the bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft)—do not overtighten or the nipple will break. Note: Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding. Running the reservoir dry will introduce air into the master cylinder and lines, requiring a complete re-bleed of the affected circuit.
   ⚠Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding. Introducing air into the ABS hydraulic unit requires specialized scan tool bleeding procedures.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Check brake pedal feel and system integrity
   With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times. The pedal should become firm and hold steady pressure without sinking. If the pedal remains soft or sinks slowly, air remains in the system and further bleeding is required. Inspect all connections at the caliper for fluid leaks while assistant applies firm pedal pressure. Wipe all surfaces clean and recheck for weeping after 30 seconds of held pressure.
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel onto the hub, threading lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern until snug but not fully torqued. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification (typically 135 Nm / 100 lb-ft for Viper) in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.

Reassembly

1. Top off brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and reinstall reservoir cap.
2. If both rear calipers were replaced, bleed the opposite side following the same procedure in step 8.
3. System-wide bleeding order (if bleeding entire system): right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Verification

• Start the engine and pump the brake pedal several times. The pedal should feel firm and consistent with approximately 1-2 inches of travel before resistance.
• With the engine running, apply firm brake pressure and hold for 60 seconds. The pedal should not sink or feel spongy. If pedal sinks, air remains in the system or there is a hydraulic leak.
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (empty parking lot). At 5-10 mph, apply moderate brake pressure. The vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to one side.
• Perform 10-15 gentle brake applications from 25-30 mph to bed in the new caliper and ensure proper operation before returning to normal driving.
• After the first 50 miles of driving, recheck all brake line connections for leaks and verify brake fluid level has not dropped.

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