Clutch Hydraulic Line

Replace the clutch hydraulic line connecting the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder, including bleeding the hydraulic system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Clutch hydraulic line × 1 — Use OEM Mopar specification
• Clutch slave cylinder (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Hydraulic line crush washers or seals × 1 — Check line fittings

Fluids

• brake — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-designated lift points.
4. Allow engine to cool completely if recently operated.
5. Verify you have fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container.
6. Locate the clutch master cylinder in the engine bay on the firewall, driver's side.
7. Locate the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing at the transmission.

Procedure

1. 1

   Access and inspect hydraulic line
   Open the hood and locate the clutch master cylinder mounted to the firewall on the driver's side. Trace the hydraulic line from the master cylinder down through the engine bay and underneath the vehicle to the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing. Inspect the entire length for obvious damage, leaks, or corrosion at fittings. Note the routing path and any clips or mounting points securing the line.
2. 2

   Drain fluid from master cylinder
   Using a turkey baster, syringe, or fluid transfer pump, remove as much fluid as possible from the clutch master cylinder reservoir. This minimizes spillage when disconnecting the line. Dispose of old brake fluid properly. Place clean towels and a catch pan beneath the master cylinder to catch any remaining fluid.
3. 3

   Disconnect line from master cylinder
   Using a flare nut wrench or line wrench (typically 11mm), carefully loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the clutch master cylinder outlet. Work slowly to avoid rounding the fitting. Once loose, unthread by hand and position a catch pan to collect draining fluid. Cap or plug the master cylinder outlet immediately to prevent contamination and further fluid loss.
4. 4

   Access slave cylinder from underneath
   Move to the underside of the vehicle. Locate the clutch slave cylinder mounted to the driver's side of the transmission bell housing. The hydraulic line connects to the inlet port on the slave cylinder body. Clean the area around the fitting with a shop towel to remove dirt and debris before loosening.
5. 5

   Disconnect line from slave cylinder
   Using a flare nut wrench (typically 10mm or 11mm depending on fitting), carefully loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the slave cylinder inlet. Support the slave cylinder body with one hand to prevent stress on the mounting. Once loose, unthread the fitting by hand. Position a catch pan beneath to collect residual fluid. Inspect the slave cylinder for signs of leakage or damage; if the dust boot is torn or fluid is present, replacement is recommended.
6. 6

   Release line from mounting clips
   Trace the entire hydraulic line path and release it from any mounting clips or brackets securing it to the chassis, frame rails, or firewall. The line is secured by mounting clips along its routing; count and note each clip location as you release them for accurate reinstallation. Some clips may be squeeze-release type, others may require gentle prying. Take photos or notes of the routing for reinstallation reference.
7. 7

   Remove hydraulic line
   Carefully withdraw the hydraulic line from the vehicle, feeding it through the engine bay and chassis routing path. Check that all fittings and clips have been released. Inspect the removed line for damage, wear, cracking in the rubber sections, or corrosion at metal fittings to confirm replacement is necessary.
8. 8

   Prepare and route new hydraulic line
   Inspect the new hydraulic line to ensure it matches the original in length, fitting types, and bend configuration. Check that new sealing washers or O-rings are included with the fittings. Route the new line through the chassis following the same path as the original, feeding from the slave cylinder end up through the engine bay to the master cylinder. Ensure the line does not contact sharp edges, exhaust components, or moving parts. Secure the line in the mounting clips as you route it.
9. 9

   Connect line to slave cylinder
   Install the new line to the clutch slave cylinder inlet port. If equipped with sealing washers, ensure a new washer is in place on both sides of the fitting. Thread the fitting by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a flare nut wrench. Torque to the factory specification (verify exact value in the service manual); tighten snugly but do not overtighten, as this can damage the soft brass fitting. Ensure the line is properly seated in the mounting clips near the slave cylinder.
10. 10

    Connect line to master cylinder
    At the engine bay, connect the hydraulic line to the clutch master cylinder outlet port. Remove any plugs or caps from the master cylinder. If equipped with sealing washers, use new washers. Thread the fitting by hand first, then tighten with a flare nut wrench to the factory specification (verify exact value in the service manual). Do not overtighten brass fittings. Verify all mounting clips along the line route are secured.
11. 11

    Fill master cylinder reservoir
    Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid of the factory-specified type (verify DOT rating in the owner's/service manual) from a sealed container. Fill to the MAX or FULL line indicated on the reservoir. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout the bleeding process to prevent air from entering the system. Use a clean funnel to avoid contamination.
12. 12

    Bleed clutch hydraulic system
    Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder (typically an 8mm or 10mm hex). Attach a clear hose to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in a container with clean brake fluid. Have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal fully and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve one-quarter to one-half turn; fluid and air will flow into the container. Close the bleeder valve before the pedal reaches the floor, then have the assistant release the pedal slowly. Repeat this process 8-12 times until no air bubbles appear in the clear hose and the fluid runs clear. Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off throughout bleeding. Close the bleeder valve snugly when complete.
13. 13

    Inspect for leaks
    With the clutch pedal released, carefully inspect all hydraulic line connections at both the master cylinder and slave cylinder for signs of fluid leakage. Wipe fittings dry with a clean towel, then have an assistant depress the clutch pedal several times while you observe for weeping or dripping. If leaks are present, slightly tighten the affected fitting; if leaks persist, verify the sealing washer is properly installed.
14. 14

    Test clutch pedal operation
    With the engine off, pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times. The pedal should feel firm with consistent resistance and return smoothly. There should be no sponginess, which would indicate air in the system. Check the master cylinder reservoir level; it should have dropped slightly as the system filled but should remain above the MIN line. Top off if necessary. If pedal feel is spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure.

Reassembly

1. Verify all hydraulic line mounting clips are secured and the line is not contacting any sharp edges or heat sources.
2. Ensure the master cylinder reservoir cap is tightly installed.
3. Lower the vehicle from jack stands and remove wheel chocks.
4. Dispose of used brake fluid according to local environmental regulations.

Verification

• Start the engine and verify the clutch pedal has firm, consistent pressure with no sponginess.
• With the engine running, depress the clutch pedal and shift through all gears to verify smooth engagement and disengagement.
• Inspect all hydraulic fittings one final time for leaks while the system is under pressure.
• Check the master cylinder fluid level after operation; it should remain stable between MIN and MAX lines.
• Test drive the vehicle in a safe area to confirm proper clutch operation under load, smooth shifts, and no slipping or dragging.

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