Clutch Slave Cylinder

Replace the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder on a 1992 Dodge Viper by removing the transmission to access the clutch bell housing mounted unit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Clutch slave cylinder × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission drain plug washer × 1 — Copper or aluminum crush washer
• Hydraulic line sealing washers × 2 — Banjo bolt washers if applicable

Fluids

• transmission_manual — 4.2 qt
• brake — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cable
3. Allow exhaust system to cool completely if vehicle was recently driven
4. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at all four corners
5. Remove both rear wheels to improve access to transmission and exhaust components
6. Place drain pan under transmission drain plug

Procedure

1. 1

   Drain transmission fluid
   Locate the transmission drain plug on the bottom of the transmission case. Remove the drain plug and allow fluid to drain completely into the drain pan. Inspect the condition of the drain plug washer and replace if damaged or reused previously.
2. 2

   Disconnect driveshaft
   Mark the relationship between the driveshaft and rear differential flange for reinstallation alignment. Remove the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft to the rear differential. Support the driveshaft and carefully lower it, sliding it rearward to disengage from the transmission output shaft. Support or secure the driveshaft out of the work area.
3. 3

   Remove exhaust components
   Disconnect the exhaust system at the connection point forward of the transmission. This typically involves removing clamps or flange bolts at the collector area. Support the exhaust system and lower it enough to provide clearance for transmission removal. The exact disconnection point may vary; locate the most accessible separation point that allows transmission clearance.
4. 4

   Disconnect shift linkage
   Locate the shift linkage connection at the side of the transmission. Remove the linkage retaining hardware and disconnect the shift rod from the transmission. Note the position and orientation of any spacers or washers for reassembly.
5. 5

   Disconnect hydraulic clutch line at slave cylinder
   Locate the hydraulic line connection at the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing. Using a flare nut wrench to prevent line damage, carefully loosen and remove the hydraulic line fitting. Be prepared for residual brake fluid to drain. Cap or plug the line to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Note whether the connection uses a banjo bolt with sealing washers or a threaded fitting.
6. 6

   Disconnect electrical connections
   Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor and any other electrical connectors on the transmission. The reverse light switch connector should be accessible from underneath. Press the connector release tabs and carefully separate each connector.
7. 7

   Support transmission
   Position a transmission jack or equivalent support device under the transmission pan. Raise the jack until it just contacts the transmission, supporting its weight but not lifting the transmission off its mounts. Secure the transmission to the jack with a safety chain or strap.
8. 8

   Remove transmission crossmember
   Remove the bolts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember, then remove the bolts securing the crossmember to the frame. There are typically 4 crossmember-to-frame bolts. Carefully lower and remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
9. 9

   Remove bell housing bolts
   Remove all bell housing bolts securing the transmission to the engine block. There are 6 bell housing bolts on this application. Access may require working from multiple angles underneath the vehicle. Ensure all bolts are removed before attempting to separate the transmission.
   Torque spec

   Bell Housing Bolts68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Separate and lower transmission
    With the transmission jack supporting the weight, carefully pull the transmission straight back away from the engine. The input shaft must disengage from the clutch disc splines. Move slowly and keep the transmission level to avoid binding. Once the input shaft clears the bell housing, carefully lower the transmission on the jack and roll it out from under the vehicle.
    ⚠Do not allow the transmission weight to hang on the input shaft. This can damage the clutch disc or pilot bearing.
11. 11

    Inspect clutch assembly
    With the transmission removed, inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel for wear, hot spots, or damage. Check the pilot bearing condition. This is the ideal time to replace the clutch assembly if wear is evident, as the labor to access it again is identical to this procedure.
12. 12

    Remove failed slave cylinder
    Locate the clutch slave cylinder mounted to the bell housing. Remove the 2 bolts securing the slave cylinder to the bell housing. Pull the slave cylinder and pushrod assembly away from the bell housing. Note the orientation of the pushrod and any dust boots or seals.
    Torque spec

    Slave Cylinder Bolts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install new slave cylinder
    Clean the mounting surface on the bell housing. Position the new slave cylinder with pushrod into the bell housing opening, ensuring the pushrod engages correctly with the clutch release fork or bearing. Install the 2 mounting bolts and torque to specification. Ensure the hydraulic line port is oriented for easy connection.
    Torque spec

    Slave Cylinder Bolts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reinstall transmission
    Apply a thin film of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines. Position the transmission on the jack and raise it into position. Align the input shaft with the clutch disc splines (use the clutch alignment tool if the clutch was disturbed). Carefully push the transmission forward, ensuring the input shaft engages the pilot bearing and the bell housing mates flush with the engine block. Do not use bell housing bolts to draw the transmission into position.
15. 15

    Install bell housing bolts
    Install all 6 bell housing bolts finger-tight first, then torque in a crossing pattern to specification. This ensures even mating pressure between the transmission and engine block.
    Torque spec

    Bell Housing Bolts68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
16. 16

    Reinstall crossmember and mount
    Raise the transmission slightly if needed to align the mount. Position the crossmember and install the frame mounting bolts. Install the transmission mount-to-crossmember bolts. Torque all fasteners to specification. Remove the transmission jack once the crossmember is secured.
17. 17

    Reconnect hydraulic line
    Connect the hydraulic line to the new slave cylinder. If using a banjo bolt connection, install new sealing washers on both sides of the banjo fitting. Torque the hydraulic line connection to specification using a flare nut wrench or appropriate wrench.
    Torque spec

    Hydraulic Line15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
18. 18

    Reconnect remaining components
    Reconnect all electrical connectors (vehicle speed sensor, reverse light switch). Reconnect the shift linkage, ensuring proper alignment and installation of any spacers or washers. Reinstall the exhaust system connection and secure all clamps or flange bolts. Align the driveshaft marks made during removal and install the 4 driveshaft-to-differential bolts, torquing to specification.
19. 19

    Refill transmission
    Install a new drain plug washer and reinstall the drain plug, torquing to specification. Locate the transmission fill plug on the side of the transmission case. Remove the fill plug and add the specified transmission fluid (Mopar MS-9224 or 75W-90 GL-4) until fluid begins to run out of the fill hole. The capacity is 4.2 quarts. Reinstall the fill plug and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Drain Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)

    Fill Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
20. 20

    Bleed clutch hydraulic system
    Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as needed. Locate the clutch hydraulic bleeder valve (typically at the slave cylinder or near the bell housing). Attach a clear hose to the bleeder and submerge the other end in a container of fresh brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal several times and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve, allow fluid and air to escape, then close the bleeder before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the discharged fluid. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout the bleeding process.
21. 21

    Final checks and wheel installation
    Double-check all fastener torque values, electrical connections, and fluid levels. Verify no tools or parts were left in the work area. Reinstall both rear wheels and torque lug nuts to specification. Lower the vehicle from jack stands.

Reassembly

1. Reassembly follows removal in reverse order
2. Always use new sealing washers for hydraulic connections and transmission drain plug
3. Ensure transmission input shaft splines are lightly greased before installation
4. Torque all fasteners to specification in the order listed
5. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system thoroughly to remove all air

Verification

• Start the engine and verify no fluid leaks from the transmission, slave cylinder, or hydraulic line connections
• With engine running, depress the clutch pedal and verify smooth engagement into all gears
• Test drive the vehicle and confirm normal clutch operation with no slipping, dragging, or unusual pedal feel
• Verify the clutch pedal returns fully and does not feel spongy (indicating air in the system)
• Recheck transmission fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary
• Inspect underneath for any fluid leaks after test drive

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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