Dual Mass Flywheel

Complete procedure for removing and replacing the dual mass flywheel on a 1992 Dodge Viper, including transmission removal, clutch assembly access, and flywheel installation with proper torque sequence.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Dual mass flywheel assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or aftermarket equivalent rated for V10
• Clutch disc and pressure plate kit × 1 — Recommended replacement with flywheel
• Pilot bearing or bushing × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Flywheel bolt set × 1 — Often single-use TTY design
• Transmission drain plug washer × 1 — Copper or aluminum crush washer
• Transmission fill plug washer × 1 — Copper or aluminum crush washer
• Clutch hydraulic fluid × 1 — DOT 3 specification if bleeding required

Fluids

• Mopar MS-9224 or 75W-90 GL-4 — 4.2 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.
3. Allow exhaust system to cool completely if vehicle was recently operated.
4. Raise vehicle using floor jack and secure on jack stands at all four corners, providing adequate working clearance underneath.
5. Remove rear wheels to provide access and reduce weight on suspension.
6. Place transmission jack or equivalent support device in accessible position near transmission.

Procedure

1. 1

   Drain transmission fluid
   Locate the transmission drain plug on the bottom of the transmission bellhousing or case. Position a drain pan with at least 6-quart capacity beneath the plug. Using the appropriate socket, remove the drain plug and allow all fluid to drain completely. This will take several minutes. Inspect the drain plug washer for damage and replace with new washer. Reinstall drain plug hand-tight only at this stage to prevent cross-threading; final torque will be applied during reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Drain Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove driveshaft
   Mark the relationship between the driveshaft yoke and differential flange with paint or marker to maintain proper phasing during installation. Remove the 4 bolts securing the rear universal joint flange to the differential pinion flange. Support the driveshaft and carefully slide it rearward and down to clear the transmission output shaft. Be prepared for residual fluid spillage from the transmission tail housing. Cap or plug the transmission output opening with a clean rag to prevent contamination.
3. 3

   Disconnect exhaust system
   Locate the exhaust connection point ahead of the catalytic converters or at the closest practical point to the transmission. Remove the exhaust hanger bolts or clamps securing the exhaust pipes to the chassis hangers near the transmission. Support the exhaust with wire or a jack stand to prevent stress on forward components. If equipped with dual exhaust running alongside the transmission, both sides must be lowered or disconnected to provide adequate clearance.
4. 4

   Remove transmission cross member and mounting hardware
   Support the transmission securely with a transmission jack positioned at the balance point under the transmission case. Remove the 2 bolts securing the transmission mount to the cross member. Remove the 4 bolts securing the cross member to the frame rails. Carefully lower the cross member and set aside. The transmission is now supported only by the jack and the bellhousing-to-engine connection.
5. 5

   Disconnect electrical and hydraulic connections
   Disconnect the reverse light switch electrical connector located on the driver side of the transmission case. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor connector if equipped. Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line at the transmission bellhousing connection. Be prepared for brake fluid spillage; have a rag ready to catch drips. Cap or plug the hydraulic line to prevent further fluid loss and contamination. If the slave cylinder is internal to the bellhousing, the line will be disconnected at the external fitting.
6. 6

   Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts
   Working around the perimeter of the bellhousing, identify and remove all bellhousing-to-engine block mounting bolts. The 1992 Viper transmission bellhousing is secured with multiple bolts around the flange (verify exact count against factory service manual before removal). Start with the upper bolts, which may require access from above through the transmission tunnel or from the sides of the engine bay. Mark or photograph bolt locations as upper and lower bolts may be different lengths. Remove all 6 bolts and ensure no brackets, ground straps, or wire harness clips remain attached.
7. 7

   Separate and remove transmission assembly
   With the transmission securely supported on the jack, carefully slide the entire transmission assembly straight rearward away from the engine. The input shaft must disengage from the clutch disc and pilot bearing without binding. If resistance is encountered, verify all mounting bolts are removed and that the transmission is properly supported at the correct angle. Once the input shaft clears the clutch assembly, carefully lower the transmission jack and roll the transmission clear of the work area. The transmission assembly with bellhousing weighs approximately 135 lbs.
   ⚠Do not allow transmission weight to hang on input shaft. Keep transmission fully supported during separation to prevent clutch disc damage or pilot bearing failure.
8. 8

   Remove clutch pressure plate and disc
   Inspect the clutch disc friction material position and orientation for reference during installation. Insert a clutch alignment tool or spare input shaft through the clutch disc to prevent dropping when the pressure plate is released. Working in a star pattern, loosen each of the 6 pressure plate bolts gradually and evenly, approximately 1-2 turns at a time per bolt, to relieve spring tension without warping the pressure plate. Once all tension is released, remove the 6 bolts completely. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as an assembly, supporting the disc with the alignment tool. Inspect all components for wear, hot spots, or contamination.
9. 9

   Lock crankshaft and remove flywheel bolts
   The flywheel is secured to the crankshaft flange with a set of bolts (verify exact count against the factory service manual before removal). Install a flywheel holding tool through the starter opening or use a suitable locking method to prevent crankshaft rotation. Do not use the starter ring gear as a locking point. Using a breaker bar or impact wrench, remove all 8 flywheel bolts in a star pattern. Verify whether these bolts are torque-to-yield (TTY) design against the factory service manual; if so, they must be replaced with new hardware. Once all bolts are removed, the flywheel is free but will be very heavy. Have an assistant ready or position a support under the flywheel before removing the final bolts.
   ⚠️Dual mass flywheel weighs 45-55 lbs and will drop when final bolt is removed. Ensure adequate support or assistance is in place to prevent injury or damage to surrounding components.
   Torque spec

   Flywheel Bolts95 Nm (70 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Remove and inspect flywheel and crankshaft flange
    Carefully remove the dual mass flywheel from the crankshaft, supporting its full weight. Set the old flywheel aside on a stable surface. Inspect the crankshaft flange mounting surface for damage, scoring, cracks, or contamination. Clean the crankshaft flange thoroughly with brake cleaner and a clean rag, ensuring no oil, grease, or debris remains. Check the pilot bearing or bushing in the center of the crankshaft for wear or roughness. Remove and replace the pilot bearing using an appropriate puller or slide hammer if replacement is needed. Install the new pilot bearing using a suitable driver, ensuring it is fully seated and square in the crankshaft bore.
11. 11

    Install new dual mass flywheel
    Verify the new dual mass flywheel matches the original in all dimensions and bolt pattern. Verify whether the flywheel requires any indexing to the crankshaft (check for alignment dowel or reference marks) per the factory service manual. With assistance or adequate support, position the new flywheel onto the crankshaft flange, aligning all 8 bolt holes. Apply a small amount of medium-strength thread locker to the threads of the new flywheel bolts. Install all 8 new flywheel bolts hand-tight initially. Using the flywheel holding tool to prevent rotation, torque all flywheel bolts in a star pattern to the factory-specified torque (verify exact value against the 1992 Viper service manual). Make at least three progressive passes (30%, 60%, then 100% of final torque) to ensure even seating and prevent warping.
    ⚠New flywheel bolts are required. Reusing torque-to-yield flywheel bolts can result in bolt failure and catastrophic damage. Always use new hardware from a reputable source.
    Torque spec

    Flywheel Bolts95 Nm (70 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Install clutch disc and pressure plate
    Inspect the new clutch disc for correct orientation. The side marked 'flywheel side' or 'transmission side' must face the appropriate direction; typically the larger protruding hub faces the transmission. Insert a clutch alignment tool through the new clutch disc and into the pilot bearing to hold the disc centered. Position the new pressure plate over the clutch disc, aligning the dowel pins or alignment marks if present. Install the 6 pressure plate bolts hand-tight. Working in a star pattern, gradually tighten the bolts evenly, approximately 2-3 turns at a time per bolt, until the pressure plate is fully seated against the flywheel. Torque all 6 bolts to the manufacturer's specification in a final star pattern pass. Verify the clutch disc is centered by checking that the alignment tool can spin freely and remove the tool.
13. 13

    Reinstall transmission assembly
    Position the transmission on the transmission jack at the correct height and angle to align with the engine. Apply a small amount of high-temperature grease to the transmission input shaft splines. Carefully guide the transmission forward, aligning the input shaft with the clutch disc splines and pilot bearing. The input shaft must slide smoothly through the clutch disc without binding. If resistance is encountered, do not force; recheck alignment and clutch disc centering. Once the input shaft is fully engaged and the bellhousing flange contacts the engine block, install all 6 bellhousing-to-engine bolts hand-tight. Verify the bellhousing is flush against the engine block before tightening. Torque the bellhousing bolts to the specified value in a star pattern.
14. 14

    Reconnect electrical, hydraulic, and mechanical connections
    Reconnect the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line to the bellhousing fitting and tighten securely. Reconnect the reverse light switch electrical connector and vehicle speed sensor connector. Position the transmission cross member onto the frame rail mounting points and install the 4 cross member bolts, torquing to specification. Install the 2 transmission mount-to-cross member bolts and torque to specification. Remove the transmission jack once the transmission is fully supported by the mount. Reconnect the exhaust system hangers and tighten all clamps or bolts securely.
15. 15

    Reinstall driveshaft and refill transmission
    Clean the transmission output shaft splines and apply a light coating of gear oil. Carefully guide the driveshaft forward, aligning the slip yoke with the transmission output shaft and sliding fully into engagement. Align the driveshaft flange with the differential pinion flange using the alignment marks made during disassembly. Install the 4 flange bolts and torque to specification. Locate the transmission fill plug on the side of the transmission case and remove it. Using a gear oil pump or fluid transfer tool, add the factory-specified transmission fluid (verify exact spec — early T56 transmissions typically use ATF, not gear oil) until fluid begins to drip from the fill hole. Install the fill plug with a new washer and torque to specification. Torque the drain plug to final specification with its new washer.
    Torque spec

    Drain Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)

    Fill Plug34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
16. 16

    Bleed clutch hydraulic system
    Check the clutch master cylinder reservoir and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed. Locate the clutch bleeder valve on the transmission bellhousing or slave cylinder. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in a container of clean brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal slowly 5-10 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder valve to release fluid and air, then close before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until no air bubbles are visible in the discharged fluid and the clutch pedal feels firm with normal resistance. Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall rear wheels and torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
2. Remove jack stands and carefully lower vehicle to the ground.
3. Reconnect negative battery cable.
4. Check all fluid levels including clutch hydraulic reservoir and transmission.
5. Verify no tools or parts remain in the work area or under the vehicle.

Verification

• Start the engine and verify no abnormal noises from the flywheel or clutch area.
• With the engine running and transmission in neutral, depress the clutch pedal and verify smooth engagement without grinding or chattering.
• Test drive the vehicle in a safe area, checking for smooth clutch engagement and release through all gears.
• Verify no fluid leaks from transmission drain plug, fill plug, or hydraulic connections.
• Listen for proper dual mass flywheel operation; no rattling at idle or excessive vibration under load.
• Check clutch pedal feel and travel; should be firm with consistent engagement point approximately mid-travel.

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