exhaust
Exhaust Manifold Studs
for 2000 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
4.2 h
Tools
14
Steps
14
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Removal and replacement of exhaust manifold studs on a 1992 Dodge Viper 8.0L V10, including manifold removal, stud extraction, and reinstallation with proper torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️Allow engine and exhaust system to cool completely before starting work. Exhaust components can cause severe burns for hours after engine shutdown.
⚠️Wear safety glasses when extracting broken studs. Metal fragments can cause eye injury.
⚠Exhaust studs on V10 engines are prone to breaking during removal. Plan for stud extraction procedures.
⚠Do not force manifold removal if studs are seized. Heat and penetrating oil are essential to prevent stud breakage.
ℹ️Work on one bank at a time to maintain some exhaust system support and facilitate reassembly.
Tools required
Socket set (metric and SAE)Essential
Torque wrench (10-50 lb-ft range)Essential
Stud extractor set or locking pliersEssential
Breaker barEssential
Wire brushEssential
Anti-seize compoundEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Exhaust manifold studs (M8 x 1.25 or M10 x 1.5) × 10 — Use OEM specification or ARP replacement studs
- Exhaust manifold nuts × 10 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification (bank-specific)
- Exhaust flange gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Heat shield bolts (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent accidental starter engagement
- Allow engine and exhaust system to cool completely (minimum 4 hours after operation)
- Raise and support vehicle securely on jack stands if accessing from below
- Place drip pans under work area to catch debris
- Apply penetrating oil to all exhaust manifold studs, nuts, and flange bolts. Allow to soak for at least 30 minutes before starting disassembly
Procedure
- 1Remove heat shieldsLocate and remove the heat shields covering the exhaust manifolds on both banks. Remove the heat shield mounting bolts and set shields aside. Note the orientation and location of any spacers or insulators for reassembly.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 2Remove oxygen sensorsIf equipped, use a 22mm or 7/8 inch oxygen sensor socket to remove the O2 sensor(s). Verify the exact number and location of O2 sensors for this specific vehicle before proceeding, as early 1992 Vipers may differ from later models. Apply additional penetrating oil if sensors are seized. Protect sensor tips from damage and contamination by placing them in a clean area away from work zone.⚠Do not allow O2 sensor tips to contact any contaminants including anti-seize, oil, or silicone. Contamination will destroy the sensor.Torque specO2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect exhaust system at manifold flangesWorking from below the vehicle, remove the exhaust flange bolts connecting the exhaust pipes to the manifold outlets on both banks. There are typically 2-3 bolts per flange. Support the exhaust pipes with wire or a jack to prevent stress on rear hangers once disconnected.Torque specExhaust Flange Bolt28 Nm (21 lb-ft)
- 4Remove exhaust manifold retaining nuts (first bank)Beginning with the passenger side (right bank), carefully remove all manifold nuts securing the manifold to the cylinder head (verify exact count for this bank against factory service manual). Work from the center outward, applying heat and additional penetrating oil to any stubborn nuts. If a stud begins to turn with the nut, stop immediately and apply more heat to break the bond.⚠If a stud begins rotating with the nut, stop and apply heat to the cylinder head area around the stud. Continued force will break the stud.Torque specManifold Nuts23 Nm (17 lb-ft)
- 5Remove first exhaust manifoldCarefully work the exhaust manifold free from the cylinder head studs. The manifold may be stuck to the head by corrosion. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the manifold loose if necessary. Do not pry against the gasket surface. Remove the old gasket material and inspect the manifold for cracks or warpage.ℹ️Manifolds are heavy (approximately 25-30 lbs each). Have a helper or suitable support ready.
- 6Extract or remove manifold studs (first bank)Assess each of the 10 studs on the first bank. For intact studs, use locking pliers or a stud removal tool to unthread them from the cylinder head. Apply heat to the cylinder head around seized studs. For broken studs, mark each location and use a screw extractor set: center punch the stud, drill a pilot hole using a bit smaller than the stud diameter, insert the extractor, and carefully back out the broken stud. If extraction fails, drill out the stud completely and re-tap the hole to the correct thread specification (confirm exact thread size and pitch from factory documentation before tapping).⚠When drilling out broken studs, ensure the drill is perfectly aligned with the original stud to avoid damaging the cylinder head threads.ℹ️Keep track of which holes required drilling and re-tapping for verification before reassembly.
- 7Clean and prepare cylinder head stud holes (first bank)Use a wire brush and shop vacuum to remove all debris from the stud holes. Run the appropriate thread chaser or tap through each hole to clean the threads (verify thread size: typically M8 x 1.25 or M10 x 1.5). Blow out holes with compressed air. Inspect each hole for damage. Any holes that were re-tapped must be verified for proper thread engagement before installing new studs.⚠Ensure all aluminum chips and debris are completely removed from stud holes. Debris will prevent proper stud seating and torque.
- 8Install new studs (first bank)Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the threads of each new exhaust manifold stud (verify exact stud count per bank against factory service manual). Thread each stud into the cylinder head by hand to ensure proper engagement. Use a stud installer tool or double-nut method to tighten studs to approximately 15 lb-ft. Do not over-tighten; studs should be snug but not stressed. Verify all studs are seated flush and protrude evenly.ℹ️Stud installation torque is not specified by manufacturer. Use 15 lb-ft as a standard for M8-M10 steel studs in aluminum, ensuring snug seating without thread stripping.
- 9Install first manifold and gasketPlace a new exhaust manifold gasket on the cylinder head, aligning all ports and stud holes. Carefully position the exhaust manifold over the studs and press it firmly against the gasket. Install all manifold nuts finger-tight. Using a torque wrench and working from the center outward in a crisscross pattern, torque all nuts to factory specification in two stages (verify exact torque values and nut count for the 1992 Viper 8.0L V10 against factory documentation).Torque specManifold Nuts23 Nm (17 lb-ft)
- 10Repeat stud replacement for second bankRepeat steps 4 through 9 for the driver side (left bank) manifold. Remove manifold nuts, extract manifold, remove and extract old studs, clean and prepare stud holes, install new studs with anti-seize, and reinstall manifold with new gasket. Torque manifold nuts to specification using the same two-stage, center-outward pattern.Torque specManifold Nuts23 Nm (17 lb-ft)
- 11Reconnect exhaust systemPosition new exhaust flange gaskets between the manifold outlets and exhaust pipes. Install and hand-tighten all exhaust flange bolts. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads before installation. Torque all flange bolts to the factory-specified value, ensuring the exhaust pipes are properly aligned and not under stress (verify torque spec against factory documentation).Torque specExhaust Flange Bolt28 Nm (21 lb-ft)
- 12Reinstall oxygen sensorsApply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads of each O2 sensor (avoid getting any compound on the sensor tip). If equipped, thread sensors into the manifolds by hand, then torque to the manufacturer-specified value (typically around 30-33 lb-ft) using the oxygen sensor socket. Reconnect any O2 sensor electrical connectors (verify sensor configuration for this specific vehicle).⚠Apply anti-seize to threads only. Any contamination of the sensor tip will cause failure.Torque specO2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall heat shieldsPosition heat shields over the manifolds, ensuring all mounting points align. Install heat shield bolts and torque to the factory-specified value (verify against factory documentation). Verify shields do not contact any moving parts or wiring.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 14Reconnect battery and perform initial checksReconnect the negative battery cable. Lower vehicle from jack stands. Before starting engine, perform a visual inspection of all work: verify all nuts and bolts are installed and torqued, confirm no tools or parts are left in engine bay, and check that all electrical connections to O2 sensors are secure.
Reassembly
- Apply anti-seize compound to all exhaust component threads during reassembly to prevent future seizure
- Always use new exhaust manifold gaskets and flange gaskets; do not reuse old gaskets
- Torque all fasteners in the specified sequence (center outward for manifold nuts) to ensure even clamping force
- Ensure exhaust pipes are properly aligned and supported before final torque to prevent stress on manifold flanges
Verification
- Start engine and allow to idle. Listen for exhaust leaks at manifold gaskets and flange connections
- Inspect all manifold studs and nuts for signs of looseness or movement while engine is running
- Allow engine to reach operating temperature, then shut off and re-check all manifold nut torque values after cool-down (cold re-torque)
- Verify no exhaust smell in cabin and no visible exhaust leaks from underneath vehicle
- Test drive vehicle and verify no exhaust drone, rattles, or performance issues
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0013Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1P0014Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 1P0023Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 2P0024Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 2P0078Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)P0079Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)P0080Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 1)P0084Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)P0105Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO CircuitP0400Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) FlowP0407Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit LowP0470Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →