Brake Line - Single

Replace a single damaged or corroded brake line section on a 2005 Dodge Viper, including flaring, fitting, and bleeding the affected brake circuit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Brake line (steel, pre-bent if available or straight for custom fabrication) × 1 — Use OEM specification or NICOPP nickel-copper alloy
• Brake line fittings (if not included with line) × 2 — Match thread pitch to OEM (typically M10x1.0 or M12x1.0)
• Brake line clips/retainers × 2 — Replace any damaged during removal

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake firmly.
2. Chock wheels that will remain on the ground.
3. Locate the damaged brake line section and identify both connection points (e.g., brake hose to hard line, hard line to ABS module, hard line junction block).
4. If the damaged line serves a wheel, loosen wheel lug nuts before raising the vehicle.
5. Raise the vehicle using a floor jack at the manufacturer-specified lift points and secure on jack stands rated for vehicle weight.
6. Remove wheel(s) if necessary to access the brake line routing.
7. Clean the area around both line connection points with a wire brush to remove rust and debris.
8. Apply penetrating oil to both flare nut fittings and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes.
9. Prepare a catch pan to collect brake fluid spillage.

Procedure

1. 1

   Relieve brake system pressure
   With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum booster reserve. Note that the hydraulic lines are not under significant pressure at rest; fluid will simply drain when a fitting is opened, so have a catch pan ready.
2. 2

   Remove damaged brake line
   Using a flare nut wrench of the correct size (verify against the 2005 Viper service manual), loosen the flare nut at the upstream connection point (closest to the master cylinder). Turn counterclockwise slowly to avoid rounding the fitting. Once loose, unthread completely by hand. Expect brake fluid to drain from the line; position the catch pan accordingly. Repeat for the downstream connection point. If the line is secured to the chassis or suspension with clips or brackets, release these retainers and carefully route the old line out, noting its path and any mounting points for the replacement line.
3. 3

   Measure and fabricate replacement line
   If using a pre-bent line, verify it matches the routing of the original. If fabricating from straight brake line stock, measure the old line section carefully, accounting for bends and routing. Add 2-3 inches of extra length to allow for flaring and final fitment adjustments. Use a tube bender to replicate the bends in the original line, avoiding kinks or sharp radius bends that could restrict fluid flow. Cut the line to final length using a tubing cutter (not a hacksaw) to ensure a clean, square cut.
4. 4

   Create double flares on both ends
   Using a double flaring tool, create a double flare (also called an inverted flare or SAE flare) on both ends of the new brake line. Insert the line into the flaring bar with the appropriate amount of tubing protruding per the tool's instructions (typically 3/16 inch for 3/16 inch line). Clamp the bar tightly and follow the flaring tool procedure: first form the bubble, then invert it to create the double flare. Inspect each flare for cracks, uneven edges, or incomplete formation. A poor flare will leak under pressure and cause brake failure.
5. 5

   Install fittings on new line
   Thread the flare nut fittings onto each end of the new line with the threaded end facing outward (toward the connection point). Ensure the fittings move freely along the line and are not cross-threaded. If the new line came with fittings pre-installed, verify they are correctly oriented and not damaged.
6. 6

   Route and position new brake line
   Route the new brake line along the same path as the original, ensuring it does not contact sharp edges, moving suspension components, the exhaust system, or the driveshaft. Maintain factory clearances from heat sources (minimum 2 inches from exhaust components). Secure the line to the chassis or suspension using the original clips or new replacement clips at the factory mounting points. The line should be supported every 12-18 inches to prevent vibration and fatigue.
7. 7

   Connect upstream fitting
   Thread the upstream flare nut (closest to master cylinder) onto its mating connection by hand, turning clockwise. Ensure the fitting threads on smoothly without resistance (cross-threading will cause leaks). Once hand-tight, use a flare nut wrench to snug the fitting. Tighten to the factory-specified torque (verify against the 2005 Viper service manual; do not overtighten, as an over-torqued flare nut can distort the flare and cause a leak). The connection should feel firm but not require excessive force.
8. 8

   Connect downstream fitting
   Thread the downstream flare nut onto its mating connection by hand, turning clockwise. Verify smooth threading without cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use a flare nut wrench to snug the fitting to the factory-specified torque (verify against the 2005 Viper service manual). Double-check that the line is properly supported by all clips and does not contact any moving or hot components.
9. 9

   Bleed the affected brake circuit
   Open the brake fluid reservoir and fill to the MAX line with fresh brake fluid of the factory-specified grade (verify DOT rating against the reservoir cap marking and service manual). Locate the bleeder screw on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder served by the replaced line. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold firm pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn while the assistant maintains pedal pressure. Fluid and air will escape into the tubing. Close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tubing and only clean fluid flows. Check the reservoir level frequently and refill as needed to prevent introducing air from an empty reservoir. Tighten the bleeder screw to specification when complete.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Check for leaks at all connections
    With the system bled, have an assistant apply firm, steady pressure to the brake pedal (approximately 50-75 lbs of force) and hold for 30 seconds. Inspect both flare nut connections on the new brake line for any signs of fluid seepage or dripping. Also check the bleeder screw. If any leaks are detected, relieve pedal pressure, tighten the leaking fitting slightly (1/8 turn increments), and retest. If a connection continues to leak after moderate tightening, the flare may be defective and the line must be re-fabricated.
11. 11

    Perform pedal feel test
    With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times. The pedal should feel firm and consistent with a high, solid engagement point. If the pedal feels spongy, travels to the floor, or requires pumping to build pressure, air remains in the system and further bleeding is required. Repeat the bleeding process at the affected caliper and any other calipers in the same circuit until firm pedal feel is achieved.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall wheel(s) if removed, torquing lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle from jack stands and remove wheel chocks.
3. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
4. Dispose of old brake fluid and contaminated brake line according to local regulations.
5. Clean any brake fluid spills from the chassis, suspension, or wheel wells immediately with water to prevent paint damage.

Verification

• With the engine running (to activate vacuum assist), apply firm brake pedal pressure. The pedal should be firm and high, with consistent feel. It should not sink slowly or feel spongy.
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area (empty parking lot). Test brakes at 5-10 mph, verifying straight, even braking with no pulling to one side.
• After the test drive, re-inspect all brake line connections for leaks. Look for wet spots or fluid residue around the flare nuts.
• Check brake fluid level in the reservoir. It should be at or near the MAX line. A significant drop indicates a leak or insufficient bleeding.
• Before returning to normal driving, perform several moderate stops from 25-35 mph in a safe area to verify full braking performance and confirm no air remains in the system.
• If at any point the brake pedal feels abnormal, the vehicle pulls during braking, or you observe any fluid leaks, DO NOT drive the vehicle. Re-inspect all work and repeat bleeding procedures.

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