Brake Pads - Front

Replace front brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Viper, including caliper removal, hardware inspection, and proper lubrication of slide pins.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (4 pads total) × 1 — Use OEM specification or performance equivalent
• Brake pad hardware/anti-rattle clips × 1 — Often included with pad set

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake.
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while wheels are still on ground.
3. Lift front of vehicle using floor jack at designated front jacking point and secure on jack stands under front frame rails.
4. Remove front wheels completely and set aside.
5. Open hood and locate brake fluid reservoir. Check fluid level and remove approximately 2 oz of fluid if reservoir is at MAX line to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake system condition
   Before beginning disassembly, inspect the brake rotor surface for deep scoring, cracks, or excessive wear. Check brake hoses for cracks, bulging, or fluid leaks. Measure rotor thickness if possible and compare to minimum specification (typically stamped on rotor hat). If rotors are damaged or below minimum thickness, they must be replaced before installing new pads. Inspect caliper slide pins for torn dust boots or excessive corrosion.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   The Viper uses fixed, opposed-piston Brembo calipers, not sliding calipers. The caliper is retained by two mounting bolts securing it to the steering knuckle/upright. On many configurations the brake pads can be removed by extracting the retaining pin(s) and anti-rattle spring without fully removing the caliper. Verify the exact caliper mounting bolt size and pad retention method against the factory service manual before proceeding.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   If caliper removal is required, remove the two caliper mounting bolts from the steering knuckle and lift the fixed caliper off the rotor. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Immediately secure the caliper to the suspension or frame using a bungee cord or mechanic's wire, ensuring no tension is placed on the brake hose.
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads
   With the caliper removed, the brake pads should be accessible in the caliper bracket. Remove the outboard pad (closest to you) first, then the inboard pad (against the rotor). Note the position and orientation of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or hardware attached to the pads. Remove any hardware clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with pliers. Inspect all hardware for corrosion, bending, or damage.
5. 5

   Clean caliper bracket and inspect slide pins
   Use brake cleaning spray and a wire brush to thoroughly clean the brake pad mounting surfaces on the caliper bracket, removing all rust, debris, and old brake dust. Pay special attention to the pad abutment areas where the pad backing plates contact the bracket. Inspect the caliper pad retaining pins and anti-rattle springs/clips for corrosion or damage. Verify caliper pistons and dust boots are intact and there are no fluid leaks. Replace any damaged hardware.
6. 6

   Compress caliper pistons
   Before installing new pads, the caliper pistons must be compressed fully into their bores to accommodate the increased thickness of new pads. Because this is a fixed opposed-piston caliper, use a brake pad spreader or a wide flat tool to press the pistons on both sides evenly back into their bores. Do not force one side only. Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood - fluid level will rise as pistons are compressed. Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood - fluid level will rise as pistons are compressed. If fluid reaches MAX line, remove excess fluid to prevent overflow.
7. 7

   Lubricate slide pins and hardware
   Apply a small amount of silicone brake grease to the pad retaining pins and to the pad abutment/backing plate contact points - do NOT get grease on the friction surface of the pads or rotor. Apply a small amount of silicone brake grease to the pad abutment surfaces on the caliper bracket where the pad backing plates will contact - do NOT get grease on the friction surface of the pads or rotor.
8. 8

   Install new brake pad hardware
   Install new anti-rattle clips and hardware into the caliper bracket in the same positions as the original hardware. If new hardware was not included with the brake pads and the original hardware is in good condition (not bent, broken, or corroded), the original hardware may be reused. Ensure all clips are fully seated and secure in the bracket.
9. 9

   Install new brake pads
   Install the new inboard brake pad (the one with the piston contact area) into the caliper bracket, ensuring it seats properly against the rotor and any clips. Install the outboard brake pad into the bracket. Verify both pads are correctly positioned, fully seated in the hardware clips, and the friction material faces the rotor. The pads should fit snugly but not be forced.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the bungee cord or wire supporting the caliper. Carefully position the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor, aligning the slide pin bolt holes in the caliper with the slide pins in the bracket. Push the caliper fully onto the bracket, ensuring it seats completely and the slide pins enter the caliper bolt holes.
11. 11

    Install and torque slide pin bolts
    If the caliper was removed, reinstall the caliper mounting bolts (do not apply grease to the threads; use threadlocker if specified). Torque the caliper mounting bolts to the factory specification (verify in the service manual, typically around 110-130 Nm / 85-95 lb-ft for this Brembo installation) in an alternating pattern.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 1 through 11 for the opposite front wheel. Both front wheels must have pads replaced at the same time to ensure balanced braking performance. Never replace pads on only one side of the vehicle.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheels
    Position each wheel onto the hub, ensuring it seats fully against the hub face. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Using a torque wrench, tighten lug nuts to approximately 135 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern (alternating across the wheel) to ensure even seating; verify the exact factory specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts142.4 Nm (105 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Restore brake pedal and check fluid
    Lower vehicle from jack stands to the ground. Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times until it becomes firm. The first few pumps will feel soft as the caliper pistons extend to contact the new pads. Check brake fluid level in the reservoir and add the factory-specified brake fluid (verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 per the owner's manual/reservoir cap) if needed to bring level to MAX line. Replace reservoir cap securely.

Reassembly

1. Installation is the reverse of removal with the following notes: Always torque all fasteners to specification in the order listed.
2. Apply silicone brake grease to slide pins and contact surfaces, but never to friction surfaces.
3. Always replace brake pads in axle sets (both front wheels) to maintain balanced braking.
4. Pump brake pedal until firm before attempting to move vehicle.

Verification

• Brake pedal should feel firm and consistent after pumping 5-10 times. If pedal feels spongy, there may be air in the system requiring bleeding.
• With engine running, apply firm brake pressure and verify pedal does not slowly sink to floor, which would indicate a hydraulic leak.
• Test brakes at low speed (under 10 mph) in a safe area to verify proper operation before returning to normal driving.
• Check for unusual noises, vibrations, or pulling to one side during initial brake applications.
• Inspect brake fluid reservoir - level should be between MIN and MAX lines with no visible leaks.
• After 50-100 miles, recheck wheel lug nut torque to ensure proper retention.
• Avoid heavy braking for first 200 miles to allow proper pad break-in and bedding to rotors.

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