Engine Rebuild

Complete engine rebuild for the 2005 Dodge Viper 8.3L V10, including engine removal, disassembly, inspection, replacement of wear components, reassembly, and reinstallation with timing, sealing, and break-in procedures.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Complete gasket set (head, intake, oil pan, valve covers) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cylinder head bolts (TTY) × 20 — Use OEM specification
• Main bearing cap bolts (TTY) × 12 — Use OEM specification
• Connecting rod bolts (TTY) × 20 — Use OEM specification
• Main bearing set (standard or oversized as measured) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Rod bearing set (standard or oversized as measured) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Piston ring set (all 10 cylinders) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Timing chain kit (double roller with guides and tensioners) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Oil pump assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Water pump × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Thermostat and housing gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Oil filter × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Spark plugs (10) × 10 — Use OEM specification
• Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Coolant hoses (upper, lower, heater) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Serpentine belt × 1 — Use OEM specification
• RTV sealant (high-temp, oil-resistant) × 2 — Mopar or equivalent
• Engine assembly lube × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Thread locker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 242 or equivalent
• Anti-seize compound × 1 — Copper or nickel-based
• Oil drain plug crush washer × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Freeze plugs (complete set) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• 0W-40 full synthetic engine oil — 11 qt
• Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50 coolant — 19 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake. Ensure adequate overhead clearance for engine removal (minimum 8 feet).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable and secure away from terminal.
3. Drain engine coolant completely into appropriate containers by opening petcock and removing radiator cap.
4. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
5. Remove engine covers and air intake system completely.
6. Label all electrical connectors, vacuum lines, fuel lines, and coolant hoses with tape and marker. Take extensive photographs from multiple angles.
7. Relieve fuel system pressure by removing fuel pump relay and cranking engine until it stops.
8. Support vehicle on jack stands rated for vehicle weight if underbody access is needed.
9. Clear workspace around vehicle for engine removal path and engine stand positioning.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove hood and front accessories
   With helper, remove hood by unbolting 4 hinge bolts and lifting away. Store in protected area. Remove radiator support cover panels. Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines (if applicable), and coolant overflow hose. Remove radiator fan shroud assembly by disconnecting electrical connector and removing mounting bolts. Remove radiator by lifting straight up. Remove serpentine belt by rotating tensioner in the direction that relieves tension (verify direction against belt routing diagram) and slipping belt off pulleys. Remove alternator (disconnect electrical connections and remove mounting bolts), power steering pump (unbolt and secure aside with lines attached), and A/C compressor (unbolt and secure aside with lines attached - do not disconnect refrigerant lines).
2. 2

   Disconnect engine electrical and fuel systems
   Disconnect all electrical connectors including: throttle body, fuel injectors (label each cylinder position), coil packs (all 10), crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensors (both banks), oil pressure sender, coolant temperature sensors, knock sensors, oxygen sensors, and main engine harness connectors at firewall. Disconnect fuel supply and return lines at fuel rail (use flare nut wrenches to prevent rounding). Cap open fuel lines. Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cable at throttle body. Remove engine harness by unclipping from valve covers and intake manifold - secure entire harness out of way or remove completely.
   ⚠Fuel system may still have residual pressure. Have shop towels ready and relieve pressure slowly.
3. 3

   Remove intake and exhaust systems
   Remove intake manifold plenum by disconnecting vacuum lines and PCV hoses, then removing intake manifold bolts working from outside toward center. Lift plenum assembly away. Disconnect fuel rail with injectors as complete assembly and secure aside. Remove intake manifold base by removing remaining bolts - note different bolt lengths and positions. Disconnect exhaust system at manifold flanges (spray penetrating oil on studs beforehand). Remove exhaust manifold heat shields. Remove exhaust manifolds from both cylinder banks by removing nuts working from manifold center outward to prevent warping. Inspect manifold studs for damage.
   Torque spec

   Intake Manifold Bolts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)

   Exhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove valve covers and cylinder heads
   Remove ignition coils from all 10 cylinders. Remove valve cover bolts from both banks and lift valve covers away - tap gently with dead blow hammer if stuck. Remove rocker/cam follower components per factory SOHC service procedure. Keep all valvetrain components organized by cylinder bank and position. Note: this is an overhead cam engine and does NOT use pushrods. Remove cylinder head bolts from both banks in reverse of tightening sequence (from outside toward inside). Use breaker bar as bolts are very tight. Lift cylinder heads straight up using lifting eyes or pry points at ends only (never pry between head and block surfaces). Place heads on padded surface. Note: Cylinder heads are heavy. Get assistance when lifting. (Verify actual head weight against factory service data before relying on this figure.)
   ⚠Cylinder heads are extremely heavy (approximately 50 lbs each). Get assistance when lifting.
   Torque spec

   Valve Cover Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

   Cylinder Head Bolts65 Nm (48 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove engine from vehicle
   From underneath vehicle, remove transmission-to-engine bolts (bell housing). Support transmission with transmission jack. Disconnect starter motor electrical connections and remove starter. Disconnect ground straps from engine block to chassis. Remove engine mount through-bolts on both sides. Attach engine hoist with load leveler to factory lifting eyes on cylinder heads using grade 8 bolts of appropriate thread size. Take up slack in hoist chain until engine weight is just supported. Double-check all connections are disconnected. Slowly lift engine while tilting slightly nose-up to clear transmission input shaft. Guide engine forward and up out of engine bay, watching for any remaining connections. Once clear, lower engine onto engine stand and secure with 4 engine stand bolts threaded into bell housing bolt holes.
   ⚠️Verify hoist and load leveler are properly rated and secured. Never work under suspended engine.
6. 6

   Remove front cover and timing components
   With engine on stand, remove harmonic balancer bolt using breaker bar (very tight). Use harmonic balancer puller to remove balancer from crankshaft - do not hammer on crankshaft. Remove water pump by removing bolts and separating from timing cover. Remove timing cover bolts (note different lengths and positions) and carefully pry cover away from block using designated pry points. Remove timing chain tensioners by first installing locking pins to compress tensioner plungers, then removing mounting bolts. Remove timing chain guides. Mark timing chain and sprocket alignment before removal - factory marks should align with TDC on cylinder 1. Remove camshaft sprocket bolts from both camshafts (verify exact sprocket bolt count against factory service data before removal) and slide sprockets and timing chain assembly forward off camshafts and crankshaft.
   ℹ️Take photographs of timing mark alignment from multiple angles for reference during reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Crankshaft Pulley Bolt180 Nm (133 lb-ft)

   Timing Chain Tensioner Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)

   Timing Chain Guide Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)

   Timing Cover Bolts - 8mm25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove camshafts and lifters
   Remove camshaft bearing cap bolts from both camshafts in reverse order (from outside toward center in multiple passes to avoid binding). Keep bearing caps in order with their respective camshaft. Carefully lift camshafts straight up from cylinder heads - do not allow camshaft to bind or scratch bearing surfaces. Remove the hydraulic lash adjusters and roller followers from the cylinder heads - keep them organized by cylinder position if reusing. Store components in a numbered container with oil if reusing to prevent draining.
   Torque spec

   Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove oil pan and oil pump
   Remove oil pan bolts working in crosshatch pattern from outside inward. Carefully separate oil pan from block using plastic scraper at RTV sealing points. Remove oil pump pickup tube by removing mounting bolts. Remove oil pump assembly by removing mounting bolts from front of engine block. Remove windage tray if equipped by removing mounting bolts.
   Torque spec

   Oil Pan Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)

   Oil Pump Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)

   Oil Pump Pickup Tube12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Remove pistons and connecting rods
   Rotate engine so crankshaft journals are accessible. Mark connecting rods and caps with cylinder number and orientation (use number stamps on non-thrust side). Check for ridge at top of cylinder bores - if present, use ridge reamer to remove before piston removal to prevent ring damage. Remove connecting rod cap bolts from all 10 cylinders and remove caps with bearing shells (keep caps with respective rods). Push pistons up and out through top of cylinder bores. Keep piston, rings, rod, bearings, and cap together as matched set for each cylinder.
   ⚠Protect crankshaft journals by covering with shop towels while removing pistons. Do not allow connecting rods to strike crankshaft.
   Torque spec

   Connecting Rod Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Remove crankshaft and main bearings
    Mark main bearing caps with position number and orientation arrow pointing toward front of engine. Remove main bearing cap bolts in sequence from outside caps toward center (caps 1, 5, 2, 4, then center cap 3). Remove main bearing caps using pry points if tight - tap gently with dead blow hammer if needed. Carefully lift crankshaft straight up from engine block - crankshaft weighs approximately 60 lbs. Remove main bearing shells from block and caps, keeping upper and lower shells matched by position. Remove rear main seal from block and rear main cap.
    ⚠Crankshaft is very heavy and has sharp edges. Use proper lifting technique and get assistance.
    Torque spec

    Main Bearing Cap Bolts75 Nm (55 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Clean and inspect all components
    Thoroughly clean engine block, cylinder heads, crankshaft, connecting rods, and all other components in parts washer or with solvent. Remove all gasket material using plastic scrapers (never metal on aluminum surfaces). Blow out all oil passages with compressed air. Inspect cylinder bores for scoring, taper, and out-of-round using bore gauge at top, middle, and bottom of stroke. Measure crankshaft main and rod journals for wear, taper, and out-of-round using micrometers. Inspect crankshaft for cracks using magnetic particle inspection. Measure camshaft lobe height, journal diameter, and runout. Inspect cylinder heads for cracks, especially between valve seats and around combustion chambers. Check deck surface flatness on both heads and block using precision straightedge and feeler gauges (maximum warpage 0.002 inches). Inspect connecting rods for straightness and twist using rod alignment fixture. Have machine shop perform any needed services: cylinder boring/honing, crankshaft grinding, connecting rod reconditioning, valve job, deck resurfacing.
    ℹ️Do not proceed with assembly if any component is out of specification. Machine work is required and attempting to assemble with worn parts will result in immediate engine failure.
12. 12

    Prepare cylinder block for assembly
    If cylinders were machined, perform final hone with 280-320 grit stones using drilling motion to create proper crosshatch pattern (45-50 degree angle). Clean bores thoroughly with hot soapy water, rinse, dry completely, and wipe with clean lint-free cloth dampened with light oil. Install new freeze plugs by coating outer edges with RTV and driving flush with block surface using appropriate size socket and hammer. Install new cam bearings (if removed) using cam bearing installation tool, ensuring oil holes align with block passages. Install new main bearing shells in block - ensure shells are correct size based on crankshaft journal measurements. Install bearing shells dry (without oil) for clearance checking. Ensure bearing tang slots engage block notches properly.
    ℹ️Cylinder bore finish is critical for ring seating. Improper honing will prevent proper break-in.
13. 13

    Install and check crankshaft clearances
    Wipe crankshaft main journals clean with lint-free cloth and solvent. Place crankshaft into block saddles, seating fully. Cut appropriate length of Plastigage and place across each main journal (one journal at a time). Install main bearing cap with bearing shell (dry, no oil) and torque cap bolts to specification in proper sequence. Do not rotate crankshaft with Plastigage in place. Remove cap and compare flattened Plastigage width to scale on package - clearance should be 0.0005-0.0025 inches. Record clearance for each journal. Repeat for all 5 main journals. If clearances are correct, remove bearings, wipe clean, and coat bearing surfaces with engine assembly lube. Reinstall crankshaft and bearings with assembly lube. Install main caps in correct positions with arrows pointing forward. Torque main bearing cap bolts in sequence to the factory-specified initial torque, then apply the factory-specified additional angle (verify both values against 2005 Viper 8.3L service data before assembly). Check crankshaft rotates freely by hand with smooth resistance.
    ⚠If bearing clearances are out of specification, engine assembly cannot proceed. Consult machine shop for crankshaft grinding and oversized bearings.
    Torque spec

    Main Bearing Cap Bolts75 Nm (55 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Prepare and install pistons and rings
    If pistons are original, remove old rings by spreading ring ends and lifting off. Clean ring grooves thoroughly with ring groove cleaner tool. Install new rings starting with oil control ring (expander and rails), then lower compression ring (marking facing down), then top compression ring (marking facing up). Check ring end gap by inserting each ring into cylinder bore, squaring with piston, and measuring gap with feeler gauge - gap should be 0.010-0.020 inches for compression rings. Stagger ring end gaps 120 degrees apart. Check ring side clearance in piston grooves with feeler gauge. Install rod bearings (new shells) in connecting rod and cap - coat with engine assembly lube. Install piston/rod assemblies by coating cylinder bores with assembly lube, compressing rings with ring compressor, ensuring rod orientation is correct (markings face away from adjacent cylinder), and gently tapping piston into bore with hammer handle while guiding rod onto crankshaft journal. Install rod cap with correct orientation, torque rod bolts to the factory-specified initial torque then apply the factory-specified additional angle (verify both values against 2005 Viper 8.3L service data). Repeat for all 10 cylinders. Verify each rod has side clearance of 0.004-0.014 inches on crankshaft journal using feeler gauge.
    ⚠Ring end gap is critical. Insufficient gap will cause rings to butt and score cylinders when engine reaches operating temperature.
    Torque spec

    Connecting Rod Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Install oil pump and oil pan
    Pack oil pump with petroleum jelly to prime pump before installation. Install oil pump to front of block using new gasket or RTV as specified, torque mounting bolts to specification. Install oil pump pickup tube with new O-ring, ensuring tube is positioned correctly in oil pan sump area, torque mounting bolts to specification. Install windage tray if equipped. Clean oil pan and block sealing surfaces thoroughly with solvent. Apply 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to oil pan flange, circling all bolt holes. Install oil pan within 10 minutes of applying RTV. Install oil pan bolts and torque in sequence (from center outward in crisscross pattern) to specification. Allow RTV to cure for 2 hours before adding oil.
    Torque spec

    Oil Pump Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)

    Oil Pump Pickup Tube12 Nm (9 lb-ft)

    Oil Pan Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
16. 16

    Install camshafts and lifters
    Coat all hydraulic lash adjuster bores and roller follower components with assembly lube. Install new or cleaned components into their respective positions in the cylinder heads (if reusing, install in original positions). Coat camshaft lobes and journals liberally with assembly lube. Carefully lower camshafts into position in cylinder heads, ensuring each cam is in correct head (intake vs exhaust if different). Coat camshaft bearing cap surfaces with assembly lube. Install bearing caps in correct positions and orientation. Install camshaft bearing cap bolts finger tight, then torque in the factory-specified sequence and multi-pass values (verify torque specs against 2005 Viper 8.3L service data). Verify camshafts rotate freely. Install new camshaft seals using seal driver.
    Torque spec

    Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
17. 17

    Install timing components
    Install camshaft sprockets onto camshafts with factory timing marks visible. Install crankshaft sprocket onto crankshaft snout. Rotate crankshaft to TDC position for cylinder 1 (keyway at 12 o'clock). Align camshaft sprocket marks with TDC indicators (marks should point toward each other at top). Install timing chain by looping around both camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket with factory marks aligned precisely. Install timing chain guides using new bolts with thread locker, torque to specification. Compress timing chain tensioners using appropriate tool and install locking pins. Install tensioners with bolts torqued to specification. Remove locking pins to activate tensioners. Verify timing marks remain aligned by rotating crankshaft two complete revolutions and rechecking TDC alignment - marks must return to exact positions. Clean timing cover and block surfaces. Apply thin bead of RTV to timing cover sealing surface. Install new crankshaft front seal in timing cover using seal driver. Install timing cover with new gasket, torque bolts in sequence to specification.
    ⚠Timing alignment is absolutely critical. Even one tooth off will cause severe engine damage. Verify alignment multiple times before proceeding.
    Torque spec

    Timing Chain Guide Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)

    Timing Chain Tensioner Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)

    Timing Cover Bolts - 8mm25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
18. 18

    Install cylinder heads and valve train
    Clean cylinder head and block deck surfaces thoroughly - remove all residue. Install new head gaskets on block, ensuring alignment with dowel pins and that 'TOP' marking faces up. Carefully lower cylinder heads onto block, aligning with dowel pins. Install new cylinder head bolts coated with engine oil on threads and under bolt heads. Torque head bolts in sequence (per factory tightening pattern) in the factory-specified multi-step sequence, then apply the factory-specified additional angle (verify all torque values, sequence, and angle against 2005 Viper 8.3L service data). Install the roller followers and hydraulic lash adjusters in their original positions per factory SOHC service procedure, ensuring each seats correctly. This engine does not use pushrods or rocker shafts. Adjust valve lash if required per factory specification (some models use hydraulic lifters with zero-lash preload). Install valve covers with new gaskets, torque bolts in sequence to specification.
    ⚠Head bolts are TTY and must be replaced with new hardware. Reusing old bolts will result in head gasket failure.
    Torque spec

    Cylinder Head Bolts65 Nm (48 lb-ft)

    Valve Cover Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
19. 19

    Install water pump, harmonic balancer, and front accessories
    Install water pump with new gasket, torque bolts to specification. Clean harmonic balancer hub and crankshaft snout with solvent. Apply thin coat of engine oil to crankshaft snout. Slide harmonic balancer onto crankshaft, aligning keyway. Install balancer bolt and torque to the factory-specified value using a torque wrench (verify torque spec against 2005 Viper 8.3L service data). Do not rely on an impact wrench for the final torque. Install A/C compressor to mounting brackets. Install power steering pump to mounting brackets. Install alternator to mounting brackets. Reconnect electrical connections to all three accessories. Install serpentine belt by routing around all pulleys per belt routing diagram, then rotating tensioner in the direction that relieves tension (verify against belt routing diagram) and slipping belt over final pulley. Verify belt is properly seated on all pulley grooves.
    Torque spec

    Crankshaft Pulley Bolt180 Nm (133 lb-ft)
20. 20

    Install exhaust and intake manifolds
    Apply anti-seize compound to exhaust manifold studs. Install exhaust manifolds with new gaskets on both cylinder banks, install nuts finger tight, then torque in sequence from center outward to specification. Install exhaust manifold heat shields. Connect exhaust system to manifold flanges with new gaskets and hardware. Install intake manifold base with new gaskets, ensuring port alignment is correct and coolant passages are sealed. Install intake manifold bolts and torque in sequence from center outward to specification. Install fuel rail with injectors as complete assembly. Install intake manifold plenum with new gasket, torque bolts to specification. Reconnect vacuum lines, PCV hoses, and throttle/cruise cables.
    Torque spec

    Exhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)

    Intake Manifold Bolts25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
21. 21

    Install engine into vehicle
    Attach engine hoist with load leveler to engine lifting eyes. Remove engine from engine stand. Carefully guide engine into engine bay at appropriate angle to clear body and align with transmission. Lower engine while tilting to engage transmission input shaft into clutch disc and pilot bearing. Continue lowering until engine mounts align with frame brackets. Install engine mount through-bolts on both sides. Install transmission-to-engine bell housing bolts and torque to specification. Install starter motor and reconnect electrical connections. Reconnect ground straps from engine to chassis. Remove engine hoist.
    ⚠Guide transmission input shaft carefully to avoid damaging clutch disc. May require rotation of crankshaft to align splines.
22. 22

    Reconnect all systems and fill fluids
    Reconnect engine wiring harness and all electrical connectors in reverse order of removal: main harness at firewall, throttle body, fuel injectors (verify correct cylinder position), coil packs, sensors (crank, cam, oil pressure, coolant temp, knock, O2). Reconnect fuel supply and return lines using new O-rings. Install new spark plugs gapped to specification and torque appropriately. Install ignition coils. Install radiator and secure with mounting bolts. Install radiator fan shroud assembly and reconnect electrical connector. Connect upper and lower radiator hoses. (Note: the 2005 Viper uses a manual transmission and has no transmission cooler lines.) Connect coolant overflow hose. Install new oil filter. Install oil drain plug with new crush washer and torque to specification. Fill engine with the factory-specified capacity and grade of full synthetic engine oil (verify oil capacity and viscosity against 2005 Viper 8.3L service data). Fill cooling system with the factory-specified capacity of Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50 coolant (verify capacity against 2005 Viper service data; use vacuum fill tool if available to eliminate air pockets). Check power steering fluid level and top off with ATF+4. Check brake fluid level. Install hood with helper, aligning with original hinge positions.
    Torque spec

    Oil Drain Plug35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
23. 23

    Initial startup and break-in procedure
    Reconnect negative battery cable. Turn ignition key to ON position without starting - verify oil pressure gauge shows pressure building (electric pump primes system). Start engine and immediately verify oil pressure gauge shows adequate pressure (20+ psi). Allow engine to idle at 1500-2000 RPM for first 20 minutes, varying RPM slightly to avoid hot spots. Monitor for leaks (oil, coolant, fuel) and unusual noises. Check that both cooling fans activate when coolant reaches operating temperature. Shut down engine and allow to cool for 30 minutes. Check all fluid levels and top off as needed. Recheck all fasteners for proper torque. Restart engine and perform test drive using break-in procedure: avoid sustained engine speeds, vary RPM between 2000-4000 for first 200 miles, avoid full throttle or high load conditions, change oil and filter at 500 miles, perform first extended highway drive to seat rings after 500 miles. Monitor oil consumption closely during first 1000 miles.
    ⚠️If oil pressure does not register within 10 seconds of startup, immediately shut down engine and investigate. Running without oil pressure will destroy engine instantly.
    ⚠Break-in procedure is critical for ring seating and bearing longevity. Do not skip break-in steps or engine life will be severely compromised.

Reassembly

1. Reassembly is covered in steps 12-23 as part of the rebuild process.
2. All gaskets and seals must be replaced with new components - never reuse gaskets.
3. All TTY bolts (head bolts, rod bolts, main cap bolts) must be replaced with new hardware.
4. Torque specifications and tightening sequences must be followed precisely - this is not optional.
5. Apply assembly lube liberally to all bearing surfaces, camshaft lobes, and lifters during assembly.
6. Use thread locker on timing chain guide and tensioner bolts as specified.
7. Allow RTV sealant to cure for minimum specified time before filling fluids or starting engine.

Verification

• Verify oil pressure gauge shows 20+ psi within 10 seconds of initial startup and maintains pressure at idle.
• Check for oil leaks at valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, and all oil galley plugs during initial run.
• Check for coolant leaks at water pump, thermostat housing, radiator hoses, and cylinder heads during warm-up.
• Verify no fuel leaks at injectors, fuel rail connections, or fuel lines.
• Listen for unusual noises: rod knock, lifter tick, timing chain noise - rebuilt engine should be mechanically quiet.
• Verify both cooling fans activate when coolant reaches operating temperature (approximately 195-210°F).
• Check that engine reaches operating temperature within 10-15 minutes and thermostat opens properly.
• Verify no exhaust leaks at manifold flanges or collector connections.
• Monitor oil consumption during first 500 miles - should stabilize after ring seating.
• Perform compression test after break-in period - all cylinders should be within 10% of each other and meet factory specification.
• Verify no check engine lights or trouble codes after initial startup and test drive.

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