engine
Main Bearings
for 2006 Dodge Viper 8.3L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
19.2 h
Tools
20
Steps
30
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Complete replacement of all main bearing shells and thrust washers in the 8.3L V10 engine, requiring engine removal from the vehicle and significant disassembly of internal engine components.
Warnings
⚠️Engine removal requires proper lifting equipment and procedures. Improper support can result in severe injury or death. Never work under an engine supported only by a hoist.
⚠️The crankshaft weighs over 70 pounds. Use proper lifting technique and have assistance available when rotating or manipulating the crankshaft.
⚠Main bearing clearances must be measured with Plastigage before final assembly. Improper clearances will result in immediate engine failure.
⚠All main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield (TTY) and must be replaced. Reusing TTY bolts will result in engine failure.
⚠Main bearing caps are numbered and directional. Installing caps incorrectly will destroy the engine. Mark cap positions and orientation before removal.
⚠Crankshaft journals must be measured for taper and out-of-round. Worn journals require machining or crankshaft replacement before new bearings are installed.
⚠This procedure assumes the crankshaft journals are within specification. If journals are damaged or out of specification, the crankshaft must be removed for grinding, requiring additional disassembly.
ℹ️Label and photograph all electrical connectors, hoses, and hardware during disassembly. The 8.3L V10 has numerous connections that must be reinstalled correctly.
ℹ️Drain all fluids with the engine cold to minimize risk of burns and fluid splashing.
Tools required
Engine stand rated for V10 weightEssential
Torque wrench (0-100 lb-ft range)Essential
Torque angle gaugeEssential
Inside micrometer or bore gaugeEssential
Pry bar setEssential
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wrench set (metric)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Engine oil filter wrenchEssential
Gasket scraper (plastic recommended)Essential
Assembly lube for bearingsEssential
Shop rags and cleanerEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Main bearing set (standard or appropriate oversize) × 1 — Use OEM specification - measure journals before ordering
- Thrust washer set × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Oil pan gasket/seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Rear main seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Oil pump pickup tube O-ring × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Engine oil filter × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Oil drain plug crush washer × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Valve cover gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Intake manifold gaskets × 1 — Use OEM specification if reused intake is removed
- Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Coolant hoses (replace any damaged during removal) × 1 — Inspect and replace as needed
- Engine coolant × 1 — Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50
- RTV sealant (oil pan corners) × 1 — Use OEM-approved RTV
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- 0W-40 full synthetic engine oil — 11 qt
- Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50 coolant — 19 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake. Allow engine to cool completely (minimum 2 hours after last operation).
- Disconnect negative battery cable and secure away from battery terminal.
- Drain engine coolant into appropriate container by opening radiator petcock and removing radiator cap.
- Drain engine oil by removing drain plug and oil filter. Dispose of fluids according to local regulations.
- Remove engine cover/beauty cover if equipped.
- Relieve fuel system pressure by removing fuel pump fuse and cranking engine until it stalls, then crank for an additional 5 seconds.
- Place appropriate drain pans and shop towels under the work area to catch residual fluids.
- Take detailed photographs of engine bay from multiple angles for reference during reassembly.
Procedure
- 1Remove hood and front accessoriesMark hood hinge positions with paint pen or marker for alignment during reinstallation. With an assistant, remove hood bolts and lift hood from vehicle. Remove air intake system including air filter housing, intake tubes, and mass airflow sensor. Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cable if equipped. Remove accessory drive belt by relieving tensioner. Remove power steering pump with lines attached and secure aside without disconnecting hydraulic lines. Remove alternator and bracket. Remove A/C compressor with lines attached and secure aside - do not disconnect refrigerant lines.
- 2Disconnect electrical and vacuum connectionsDisconnect all electrical connectors from engine including: fuel injector harness, ignition coil connectors, camshaft position sensors, crankshaft position sensor, oil pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensors, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and any other sensors. Label each connector with tape and marker indicating its position. Disconnect vacuum lines from intake manifold, brake booster, and PCV system. Photograph routing of all lines before disconnection.
- 3Disconnect fuel system and cooling systemDisconnect fuel supply and return lines at fuel rail using appropriate fuel line disconnect tools. Cap open fuel lines to prevent contamination. Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses from engine. Disconnect heater hoses at firewall. Disconnect transmission cooler lines if routing through engine area. Remove radiator and cooling fan assembly as a unit by removing mounting bolts and lifting straight up.
- 4Disconnect exhaust systemRaise vehicle on lift or support securely on jack stands at all four corners. Spray exhaust manifold flange bolts with penetrating oil and allow to soak. Disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust manifolds at the collector flanges. Support exhaust system with wire or strap to prevent damage. Remove oxygen sensor connectors if not already disconnected.
- 5Remove transmission bellhousing bolts and separate transmissionSupport transmission with transmission jack or appropriate support. Remove starter motor by disconnecting electrical connections and removing mounting bolts. Mark flexplate/flywheel position relative to crankshaft for reinstallation alignment. Access the clutch and bellhousing; the Viper uses a manual transmission, so there is no torque converter. Remove the clutch slave/hydraulic connection as needed before separating the transmission. Remove all transmission-to-engine mounting bolts. Carefully slide transmission back approximately 2 inches to disengage torque converter from crankshaft, then lower transmission slightly while guiding clear of engine. Support transmission securely.Torque specTransmission-to-Engine Bolts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)Flywheel Bolts95 Nm (70 lb-ft)
- 6Remove engine mounts and prepare for extractionAttach engine hoist to factory lifting eyes or suitable lifting points on engine. Take up slack in hoist chain to support engine weight but do not lift yet. Remove engine mount through-bolts on both driver and passenger sides. Check that all hoses, wires, cables, and lines are disconnected from engine. Walk around vehicle and verify no connections remain between engine and chassis.
- 7Extract engine from vehicleSlowly lift engine with hoist while guiding it forward and up out of engine bay. An assistant should guide the engine and watch for any remaining connections or interference points. Once engine is clear of engine bay, continue lifting and position engine over engine stand. Lower engine onto engine stand and secure with appropriate bolts threaded into bellhousing mounting holes. Verify engine is securely mounted to stand before releasing hoist.
- 8Remove valve covers and upper engine componentsWith engine on stand, remove ignition coils and spark plug wires. Remove valve covers by removing perimeter bolts and lifting covers off. Remove spark plugs from all cylinders to reduce rotating resistance when turning crankshaft. If removing intake manifold is necessary for main bearing access, disconnect remaining vacuum lines and sensors, remove intake manifold bolts working from the center outward, and lift intake manifold from engine. Remove oil dipstick tube.
- 9Remove oil panRotate engine on stand to access oil pan from below. Remove all oil pan bolts working in a cross pattern from outside toward center. Carefully separate oil pan from engine block using a plastic scraper - do not pry between machined sealing surfaces. The pan may be sealed with RTV at the corners. Once pan is free, lower pan and remove from engine. Clean all old gasket material and RTV from oil pan and engine block sealing surfaces using plastic scraper and solvent. Inspect oil pan for cracks or damage.Torque specOil Pan Bolt12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
- 10Remove oil pump and pickup tubeRemove oil pump pickup tube mounting bolt and carefully remove pickup tube from oil pump. Remove oil pump mounting bolts and remove oil pump from front of engine block. Inspect oil pump drive gear engagement and shaft condition. Set oil pump aside for reinstallation or replacement. Note: Install oil pump onto front of engine block, aligning the pump rotor with the crankshaft snout.Torque specOil Pump Pickup Tube12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
- 11Mark and identify main bearing capsBefore removing any main bearing caps, verify each cap is already marked with its main bearing number and orientation arrow pointing toward front of engine (the V10 has 6 main bearing caps). If factory markings are not clear, use a center punch to mark each cap with its position number and an arrow indicating front orientation on the same side of the cap. Take photographs showing cap positions and orientations. The thrust bearing is typically at position 3 (center main). Note the location of the thrust washers.
- 12Remove main bearing capsCheck that all rod caps are still in place - do not remove connecting rods as part of this procedure. Beginning with cap 1 (front), remove main bearing cap bolts. Verify in the service manual whether the main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield (single-use) or reusable; replace bolts if the FSM specifies they must not be reused. Carefully tap cap with a rubber mallet if needed to break it free, then lift cap straight up from engine block. Keep the bearing shell with its cap if inspecting bearing condition. Repeat for the remaining caps (2 through 6). For the thrust bearing cap (verify exact position per FSM), remove cap and carefully extract thrust washers from either side of the main journal. Keep upper and lower thrust washers separate and labeled. Do not allow the crankshaft to drop or rotate excessively once bearing caps are removed.Torque specMain Bearing Cap Bolts75 Nm (55 lb-ft)
- 13Inspect crankshaft journals and measure clearancesWith bearing caps removed and crankshaft still in block, inspect all main bearing journals for scoring, discoloration, or damage. Use a micrometer to measure each main journal diameter at multiple points (90-degree intervals) to check for taper and out-of-round condition. Journals must be within 0.0002 inch taper and 0.0002 inch out-of-round. Record all measurements. Check crankshaft end play at thrust bearing location - excessive end play indicates thrust washer wear. If journals are damaged or out of specification, the crankshaft must be removed and machined, which is beyond the scope of this bearing replacement procedure. If journals are within specification, proceed with bearing replacement.
- 14Remove old bearing shells and clean surfacesRemove the lower bearing shells from each main bearing cap by pushing the locking tab out of its recess and sliding shell out. Remove upper bearing shells from engine block by rotating crankshaft carefully to expose the bearing shell tang, then push shell around and out using a bearing removal tool or brass drift. Do not scratch or gouge the bearing bore in the block or caps. Clean all bearing surfaces in block and caps with clean, lint-free shop towels and solvent. Inspect bearing bores for any damage or scoring. Blow out oil passages in crankshaft and block with compressed air - wear safety glasses. Wipe crankshaft journals with clean solvent and dry with lint-free cloth.
- 15Install new upper bearing shellsVerify new bearing shells are correct size (standard or appropriate oversize to match machined journals). Lubricate bearing bores in engine block with clean engine oil. Install new upper bearing shells into engine block by aligning the locking tang with the notch in the bearing saddle and pressing shell into place. Ensure shell seats fully with no gaps. The bearing shell with the oil hole must align with the oil passage in the block. Rotate crankshaft slightly as needed to facilitate installation but avoid excessive movement. Apply assembly lube generously to the inside surface of each new bearing shell.
- 16Install new lower bearing shells and thrust washersInstall new lower bearing shells into each main bearing cap using the same procedure - align locking tang and press into place. Apply assembly lube to bearing surfaces. For the thrust bearing position (typically cap 3), install new thrust washers on both sides of the main journal. The grooved side of the thrust washer faces the crankshaft thrust surface. Apply assembly lube to thrust washer surfaces.
- 17Check bearing clearances with PlastigageBefore final assembly, verify bearing clearances using Plastigage. Place a strip of Plastigage on each main bearing journal parallel to the crankshaft centerline. Install bearing caps in their correct positions and orientations without assembly lube on the Plastigage contact area. Install new main bearing cap bolts and torque to the exact value and angle specified in the 2005 Viper 8.3L service manual (verify torque and any torque-angle step in the FSM before proceeding). Do not rotate crankshaft with Plastigage in place. Remove caps and measure the width of the flattened Plastigage using the scale on the Plastigage envelope. Clearance should be 0.0008-0.0021 inch for main bearings. If clearance is outside specification, determine cause before proceeding. Remove all Plastigage material before final assembly.Torque specMain Bearing Cap Bolts75 Nm (55 lb-ft)
- 18Final main bearing cap installationWipe all Plastigage residue from bearings and journals. Reapply assembly lube to all bearing surfaces. Carefully lower each main bearing cap onto its corresponding main bearing saddle, ensuring correct position and orientation. Install new main bearing cap bolts (TTY bolts must not be reused). Hand-tighten all bolts first. Following the exact tightening sequence specified in the service manual for the 6 main bearing caps, torque main bearing cap bolts to the exact value and torque-angle specified in the 2005 Viper 8.3L service manual. Use a torque angle gauge for accurate measurement. After all caps are torqued, check crankshaft rotation by hand - it should rotate freely with moderate effort. If crankshaft binds, stop and diagnose the problem before proceeding.Torque specMain Bearing Cap Bolts75 Nm (55 lb-ft)
- 19Install oil pump and pickup tubeInstall oil pump onto front of engine block, aligning the pump rotor with the crankshaft snout. Install oil pump mounting bolts and torque to specification. Install new O-ring on oil pump pickup tube. Position pickup tube into oil pump and install mounting bolt, torquing to 9 lb-ft. Verify pickup tube is positioned correctly and will not contact oil pan when installed.Torque specOil Pump Pickup Tube12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
- 20Install oil panInstall new oil pan gasket according to manufacturer instructions. Apply small beads of RTV sealant at the corners where the front cover and rear main seal retainer meet the engine block. Position oil pan onto engine block and hand-start all oil pan bolts. Following the tightening sequence in the service manual (typically spiral pattern from center outward), torque oil pan bolts to 9 lb-ft. Allow RTV to cure for the time specified by the sealant manufacturer before adding oil.Torque specOil Pan Bolt12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
- 21Reinstall upper engine componentsInstall new valve cover gaskets onto valve covers. Position valve covers onto cylinder heads and install mounting bolts, torquing to specification working from center outward. Reinstall intake manifold if it was removed, using new gaskets and following proper torque sequence. Install spark plugs and torque to specification. Install ignition coils and reconnect coil connectors. Install oil dipstick tube.
- 22Prepare engine for installationRotate engine on stand to vertical orientation for installation. Attach engine hoist to lifting points and take up slack. Remove engine from stand and position engine for installation into vehicle. Verify flywheel and clutch assembly are properly positioned and oriented according to marks made during disassembly.
- 23Install engine into vehicleWith an assistant guiding, carefully lower engine into engine bay, aligning engine mounts with chassis mount brackets. Lower engine slowly while watching for interference with any chassis components. Once engine mount bosses are aligned with frame mounts, install engine mount through-bolts finger-tight but do not fully torque yet. Verify engine is sitting properly in chassis before releasing hoist tension.
- 24Reconnect transmissionWith transmission supported on transmission jack, raise transmission into position behind engine. Align torque converter hub with crankshaft and carefully slide transmission forward until bellhousing mates with engine block. Verify torque converter is fully seated in transmission (typically recessed 1/2 inch from bellhousing face). Install all transmission-to-engine bolts and torque to the value specified in the service manual. Rotate crankshaft to access torque converter bolt holes and install flexplate-to-torque converter bolts, aligning marks made during disassembly. Install the clutch and pressure plate assembly, aligning the clutch disc with a pilot tool, and torque the flywheel/pressure plate bolts to the value specified in the service manual in a star pattern. Install starter motor and reconnect electrical connections.Torque specTransmission-to-Engine Bolts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)Flywheel Bolts95 Nm (70 lb-ft)
- 25Reconnect exhaust system and complete undercar workReconnect exhaust pipes to exhaust manifolds using new gaskets. Torque exhaust flange bolts to specification. Reconnect oxygen sensor connectors. Torque engine mount through-bolts to specification. Install oil drain plug with new crush washer and torque to the value specified in the service manual. Install new oil filter and pre-fill with fresh 0W-40 synthetic oil. Lower vehicle from lift or jack stands.Torque specOil Drain Plug35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 26Reconnect cooling system and fuel systemInstall radiator and cooling fan assembly. Reconnect upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses. Reconnect transmission cooler lines if equipped. Reconnect fuel supply and return lines at fuel rail, ensuring proper engagement of quick-connect fittings. Install fuel pump fuse.
- 27Reconnect electrical and vacuum systemsReconnect all electrical connectors to engine using labels and photographs from disassembly as reference: fuel injector harness, ignition coil connectors, sensors, throttle position sensor, idle air control, and all other connectors. Reconnect vacuum lines to intake manifold, brake booster, and PCV system following routing documented during disassembly. Reconnect throttle cable and cruise control cable if equipped, adjusting as necessary.
- 28Install accessories and complete engine bay assemblyInstall A/C compressor and mounting bracket, torquing bolts to specification. Install alternator and bracket. Install power steering pump and torque mounting bolts. Install accessory drive belt following proper routing diagram. Install air intake system including mass airflow sensor, intake tubes, and air filter housing. Reinstall hood with assistant, aligning hood hinges with marks made during removal. Adjust hood alignment as necessary. Reconnect negative battery cable.
- 29Fill fluids and prepare for startupFill engine with 0W-40 full synthetic engine oil to the capacity specified in the service manual (verify capacity before filling). Verify oil level on dipstick. Fill cooling system with Zerex G-05 HOAT 50/50 coolant to the capacity specified in the service manual. Fill overflow reservoir to full mark. Check power steering fluid level and top off with ATF+4 if needed. Check all fluid levels and verify no drain plugs or fill caps were left off.
- 30Initial startup and break-in procedureVerify transmission is in Park or Neutral. Turn ignition key to ON position without starting engine and listen for fuel pump priming. Check for fuel leaks at all connections. Crank engine for 10-15 seconds to build oil pressure without starting by disabling ignition or fuel system. Observe oil pressure gauge or light. Once oil pressure is confirmed, enable ignition/fuel and start engine. Engine should start and idle. Immediately check for any fluid leaks, unusual noises, or warning lights. Allow engine to idle for 2-3 minutes while monitoring oil pressure and coolant temperature. Check for leaks around oil pan, main seal area, valve covers, and all connections. Shut off engine and recheck oil level - top off if necessary. Restart engine and allow to reach operating temperature while continuing to monitor for leaks or issues.
Reassembly
- Torque specifications are critical for main bearing cap bolts (TTY), oil pan bolts, and flexplate bolts - follow sequences precisely
- All main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced with new bolts
- Main bearing clearances must be verified with Plastigage before final assembly
- Use assembly lube on all bearing surfaces during installation
- Apply RTV sealant only at oil pan corners where specified - do not over-apply
- Allow RTV sealant to cure for the specified time before filling with oil
- Verify crankshaft rotates freely by hand after main bearing cap installation before proceeding
Verification
- Verify no fluid leaks from oil pan, rear main seal, or valve covers after initial startup and warm-up cycle
- Confirm oil pressure is within specification (typically 25-80 PSI depending on RPM and temperature)
- Listen for any abnormal engine noises such as knocking or ticking that could indicate bearing issues
- Check that engine idles smoothly and revs cleanly without hesitation
- Verify coolant temperature rises to normal operating range and cooling system maintains pressure
- After test drive, recheck oil level and inspect for any new leaks
- Monitor oil pressure and engine behavior over the first 100 miles - bearing wear-in period is critical
- Consider oil and filter change at 500 miles to remove any assembly residue or break-in debris