suspension
Trailing Arm
for 2006 Dodge Viper 8.3L V10 · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
11
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Remove and replace the rear trailing arm on a 2005 Dodge Viper, including disconnection from the hub assembly and chassis mount points.
Warnings
⚠️The Viper's rear suspension carries extreme loads. Never work under the vehicle without proper jack stands rated for the weight. A floor jack alone is not sufficient.
⚠Suspension components are under tension even when the vehicle is lifted. Control the release of fasteners to prevent sudden movement.
⚠If removing both trailing arms, mark left and right side components to ensure correct reinstallation.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 Nm)Essential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
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Parts
- Rear trailing arm × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Trailing arm mounting hardware kit (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on a level, solid surface and engage parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground.
- Lift the rear of the vehicle using a floor jack at the rear differential or approved jacking point.
- Support the vehicle on jack stands placed at the frame rails or designated lift points.
- Remove the rear wheel completely.
- Spray all trailing arm fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes if corrosion is present.
Procedure
- 1Support the rear hub assemblyPosition a floor jack with a wood block under the rear hub assembly to support the weight of the suspension. Raise the jack just enough to take up slack without lifting the vehicle off the jack stands. This prevents the suspension from dropping excessively when the trailing arm is disconnected.
- 2Remove trailing arm-to-hub mounting boltLocate the large through-bolt connecting the trailing arm to the rear hub assembly. This is typically a single horizontal bolt passing through the trailing arm and hub bracket. Remove the nut from the bolt end, then drive the bolt out using a brass drift or punch. Note the orientation and any shims or spacers present.
- 3Disconnect trailing arm from chassis mountMove to the front attachment point where the trailing arm connects to the chassis or subframe. Remove the mounting bolts (verify exact count per OEM service manual) securing the trailing arm bushing bracket to the chassis. These bolts may be vertical or horizontal depending on the mounting design. Support the trailing arm as you remove the final fasteners.
- 4Remove trailing arm from vehicleWith all mounting points disconnected, carefully lower the floor jack slightly to create clearance. Maneuver the trailing arm away from the hub assembly and forward out of the chassis mounting bracket. The trailing arm should now be free. Inspect the mounting bushings at both ends for wear, cracking, or deformation.
- 5Inspect and prepare new trailing armCompare the new trailing arm to the old unit to verify correct application. Check that all mounting bushings are properly seated and not damaged. Clean the hub mounting area and chassis bracket with a wire brush to remove corrosion and ensure proper fitment. Inspect the through-bolt for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
- 6Install trailing arm to chassis mountPosition the new trailing arm into the chassis mounting bracket, aligning the bushing bracket with the bolt holes. Insert the 2 mounting bolts and thread them by hand to ensure proper alignment. Do not fully torque at this time - leave fasteners finger-tight to allow for alignment adjustment.
- 7Connect trailing arm to hub assemblyRaise the floor jack under the hub assembly to align the trailing arm with the hub bracket. Insert the through-bolt from the appropriate direction (matching original orientation), ensuring any shims or spacers are in their correct positions. Install the nut on the bolt end and tighten by hand.
- 8Torque chassis mounting boltsWith the suspension at approximately ride height (floor jack supporting hub assembly), torque the 2 chassis mounting bolts to specification. Torque in a cross pattern if applicable to ensure even seating of the bushing bracket.
- 9Torque hub mounting hardwareTorque the trailing arm-to-hub through-bolt nut to the OEM-specified value with the suspension at ride height (verify exact spec in 2005 Viper factory service manual). This is critical for proper bushing function and suspension geometry. Verify the bolt does not rotate as you torque the nut.⚠This fastener must be torqued with the vehicle at ride height or normal suspension load. Torquing with suspension hanging can cause premature bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 10Remove support jack and reinstall wheelCarefully lower and remove the floor jack from under the hub assembly. Reinstall the rear wheel, threading lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but does not bear full weight.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 11Final torque wheel lug nutsWith the vehicle weight on the ground, torque the wheel lug nuts to the OEM-specified value (approximately 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft — verify per 2005 Viper service manual) in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reassembly is covered in the installation steps above.
- Ensure all suspension fasteners connected to bushings are torqued with the vehicle at ride height, not with suspension hanging.
- If both trailing arms were replaced, verify symmetry of installation before test driving.
Verification
- Perform a visual inspection of all mounting points to confirm fasteners are fully seated and torqued.
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area, checking for unusual noises, vibrations, or handling abnormalities.
- After 50-100 miles, re-torque all trailing arm fasteners to specification as bushings may settle.
- Have the vehicle alignment checked by a professional alignment shop, as trailing arm replacement affects rear toe and camber settings.