Clutch Cable

Replace the clutch hydraulic line (often referred to as clutch cable, though the 2008 Viper uses a hydraulic system) to restore clutch pedal feel and engagement.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Clutch hydraulic line × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Clutch slave cylinder retaining clip (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 4 brake fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake.
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
3. Allow engine to cool completely if recently driven.
4. Raise front of vehicle using jack and support securely on jack stands.
5. Remove driver side front wheel for better access to slave cylinder area.
6. Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and check fluid level; top off if below maximum line.

Procedure

1. 1

   Access clutch master cylinder
   Open the hood and locate the clutch master cylinder on the firewall, driver side, near the brake master cylinder. The hydraulic line runs from this cylinder down through the firewall to the transmission bell housing.
2. 2

   Disconnect hydraulic line at master cylinder
   Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the clutch master cylinder. Be prepared for brake fluid spillage. Use a shop towel to catch fluid. Once loosened, unthread the fitting by hand and carefully pull the line away from the master cylinder. Immediately plug the master cylinder port with a clean rubber cap or wrap with plastic and tape to minimize fluid loss.
3. 3

   Access slave cylinder from underneath
   From underneath the vehicle, locate the clutch slave cylinder mounted to the transmission bell housing on the driver side. The hydraulic line connects to the top of the slave cylinder.
4. 4

   Disconnect hydraulic line at slave cylinder
   Using a 13mm wrench, loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the slave cylinder. Position a catch pan below to capture brake fluid. Once loosened, unthread the fitting by hand. The hydraulic line is now free at both ends.
5. 5

   Remove line routing clips
   Trace the hydraulic line from master cylinder to slave cylinder and locate the routing clips that secure it to the chassis and body. There are typically 2-3 clips along the frame rail and inner fender. Use needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to release these clips and free the line completely.
6. 6

   Remove old hydraulic line
   Carefully extract the hydraulic line from the engine bay, following its routing path through the firewall area and down to the transmission. Note the exact routing for installation of the new line.
7. 7

   Install new hydraulic line
   Route the new hydraulic line from the transmission slave cylinder location up through the chassis, following the same path as the original line. Ensure the line does not contact any sharp edges, exhaust components, or moving parts. Loosely install the line into the routing clips.
8. 8

   Connect line at slave cylinder
   Thread the hydraulic line fitting into the slave cylinder by hand to avoid cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use a 13mm wrench to snug the fitting. Do not overtighten; these are flare fittings that seal on the mating surface, not by torque.
9. 9

   Connect line at master cylinder
   Remove the plug from the master cylinder port. Thread the hydraulic line fitting into the clutch master cylinder by hand, then snug with a 10mm wrench. Again, avoid overtightening the flare fitting.
10. 10

    Secure routing clips
    Fully seat all routing clips along the hydraulic line path to ensure the line is properly supported and will not vibrate or chafe during operation.
11. 11

    Bleed clutch hydraulic system
    Locate the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder and place the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times and hold it to the floor. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn; fluid and air will flow out. Close the bleeder before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream. Check and top off the brake fluid reservoir frequently during this process to prevent introducing air into the brake system.
12. 12

    Check for leaks
    With the system bled, inspect both fittings at the master cylinder and slave cylinder for any signs of brake fluid leakage. Wipe the fittings dry, then have an assistant press the clutch pedal firmly while you observe. Tighten fittings slightly if any seepage is observed.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall driver side front wheel and torque lug nuts to specification.
2. Lower vehicle from jack stands.
3. Top off brake fluid reservoir to maximum line with DOT 4 brake fluid.
4. Dispose of used brake fluid properly at a recycling center.

Verification

• Start the engine and depress the clutch pedal multiple times. Pedal should feel firm with normal resistance and return smoothly.
• With engine running, shift through all gears to verify proper clutch engagement and disengagement.
• Re-inspect all hydraulic fittings for leaks after test drive.
• Check brake fluid reservoir level after test drive; top off if necessary.
• Verify clutch pedal height and free play are within normal range (pedal should engage approximately halfway through travel).

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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