Crankshaft R&R

Complete removal and reinstallation of the crankshaft from a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8 engine, including engine removal, disassembly of all bottom-end components, crankshaft extraction, and reassembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Main bearing set (standard or appropriate oversize) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Rod bearing set (standard or appropriate oversize) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Rear main seal (rope or 2-piece) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Front crankshaft seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Oil pan gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Timing cover gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Oil pump × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Timing chain set (chain, gears, and hardware) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Main cap bolts (if reuse not recommended) × 10 — Use OEM specification
• Rod cap bolts (if reuse not recommended) × 16 — Use OEM specification
• Valve cover gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Intake manifold gasket set × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Engine oil filter × 1 — FL-1A or equivalent
• Antifreeze/coolant × 1 — Ethylene glycol green 50/50

Fluids

• 10W-30 or 10W-40 conventional engine oil — 5 qt
• Ethylene glycol green 50/50 coolant — 15 qt
• Type F ATF (automatic transmission) — 11 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and chock rear wheels securely
2. Disconnect negative battery cable
3. Drain engine oil completely into suitable container
4. Drain cooling system at radiator petcock and engine block drain plugs
5. Remove hood by unbolting hinge bolts (requires assistant)
6. Relieve fuel system pressure if applicable and disconnect fuel lines
7. Label and disconnect all vacuum lines, electrical connectors, and control cables
8. Remove air cleaner assembly and carburetor linkage
9. Remove radiator, fan shroud, and fan assembly
10. Mark driveshaft-to-pinion flange orientation and remove driveshaft
11. Support transmission with floor jack and remove transmission-to-engine bolts
12. Attach engine hoist chains to engine lifting points on intake manifold
13. Clear workspace around vehicle for engine removal and stand mounting

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove engine from vehicle
   With engine hoist attached to proper lifting points, slowly raise engine while guiding it forward to clear transmission input shaft. Lift engine clear of engine bay and carefully lower onto engine stand. Bolt engine stand to the rear bellhousing mounting bolt holes on the block using 4 bolts (flywheel/flexplate must be removed first). Ensure engine is securely mounted before releasing hoist tension.
2. 2

   Remove external components
   Remove the following components from engine: alternator and brackets, power steering pump and brackets, A/C compressor (if equipped, set aside without disconnecting refrigerant lines), water pump, harmonic balancer using puller tool, timing cover (typically 7-8 bolts, verify exact count for your application), valve covers, intake manifold with intake bolts (verify count for the specific manifold; typically 12 on the 302), exhaust manifolds with 6 bolts per side, distributor, fuel pump, starter, and flywheel or flexplate with 6 bolts (verify count for the specific application). Mark flywheel orientation to crankshaft flange before removal.
3. 3

   Remove oil pan and oil pump
   Remove oil pan by extracting bolts around perimeter (typically 14-16 bolts for this application). Lower oil pan and gasket. Remove oil pump pickup tube with 2 bolts. Remove oil pump by extracting 2 bolts securing pump body to main bearing cap. Remove oil pump intermediate shaft by pulling straight out from rear of block.
4. 4

   Remove timing chain and gears
   The factory 1972 302 timing chain does not use a tensioner; proceed to remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Remove camshaft sprocket bolt (single bolt at center of cam gear). Slide timing chain and both sprockets forward off their respective shafts as an assembly. Note timing marks alignment for reassembly reference.
5. 5

   Mark and remove connecting rod caps
   Rotate crankshaft to position cylinder 1 and 2 rods at bottom dead center for easy access. Using punch or paint pen, mark each connecting rod and cap with cylinder number (1-8) and orientation toward front of engine. Remove rod cap nuts (2 per rod, 16 total) and carefully remove rod caps, keeping bearings with their respective caps. Push pistons up into bores slightly to clear crankshaft journals.
6. 6

   Mark and remove main bearing caps
   Using punch or paint pen, mark each main bearing cap with its journal number (1-5, front to rear) and orientation arrow pointing toward front of engine. The main caps are numbered from factory but verify markings are visible. Remove main cap bolts (2 per cap, 10 total). Note that center main cap (number 3) may have thrust bearing surfaces on sides. Carefully remove main caps using soft mallet taps if needed, keeping bearings with their respective caps.
7. 7

   Remove crankshaft
   Carefully lift crankshaft straight up and out of block. Crankshaft weighs approximately 60 pounds, so use proper lifting technique. Rotate slightly if needed to clear connecting rods. Place crankshaft on clean, padded surface. Remove upper main bearing shells from block saddles and keep organized with their respective caps for inspection.
8. 8

   Inspect crankshaft and bearing surfaces
   Clean all crankshaft journals thoroughly with solvent and compressed air. Using micrometer, measure each main journal (5 total) and rod journal (8 total) in multiple positions to check for out-of-round (maximum 0.001 inch) and taper (maximum 0.001 inch). Inspect journals for scoring, heat discoloration, or cracks. Measure main journal diameter (Ford 302 standard approximately 2.2482-2.2490 inches) and rod journals (approximately 2.1228-2.1236 inches); verify against 1972 Ford shop manual specifications. Visually inspect block bearing bores for scoring, damage, or cracks. Use dial bore gauge to measure main bearing bore diameter and check for out-of-round condition.
9. 9

   Clean and prepare block
   With crankshaft removed, thoroughly clean all bearing saddles in block and main caps using solvent and shop rags. Clean all oil passages with rifle brushes and compressed air, paying special attention to main oil gallery and lifter oil passages. Inspect thrust surfaces on center main bearing saddle (number 3) for wear or scoring. Ensure all bearing surfaces are completely clean, dry, and free of debris before proceeding.
10. 10

    Install new main bearings and check clearances
    Install new upper main bearing shells into block saddles, ensuring bearing tang engages slot in saddle. Do not use any lubricant at this stage. Install new lower bearing shells into main caps with tangs properly engaged. Place Plastigage strips across each main journal on crankshaft. Carefully lower crankshaft into block. Install main caps in correct position and orientation as marked. Install and tighten main cap bolts to Ford spec (302 typically 60-70 ft-lb; verify against 1972 shop manual). Remove caps carefully without rotating crankshaft and measure crushed Plastigage width using scale on package. Desired clearance is 0.0005-0.0024 inches for main bearings. If clearance is incorrect, verify journal diameter and select appropriate bearing size. Verified detail (The 1972 Ford 302ci V8 main bearing cap bolts should be torqued to 60-70 ft-lb, with 65 ft-lb being the most commonly cited specification. The range of 60-65 ft-lb is slightly low on the upper end.): Install and tighten main cap bolts to 60-70 ft-lb (65 ft-lb typical for 1972 302ci - verify in factory service manual).
11. 11

    Install crankshaft with lubricated bearings
    Remove Plastigage residue from journals completely. Remove bearings and coat each bearing surface liberally with moly-based assembly lube. Reinstall upper main bearings in block and lower bearings in caps with lube applied. Coat all main journals on crankshaft with assembly lube. Carefully install crankshaft into block. Install main caps in correct numerical order and orientation, verifying marks align. Install main cap bolts and tighten in sequence per Ford service manual, generally working from the center cap outward (verify exact sequence). Tighten to Ford spec for 302 main caps (typically 60-70 ft-lb; verify against shop manual). Check crankshaft rotates freely by hand after each cap is torqued. Verified detail (Same as step 10 - the specification should be 60-70 ft-lb with 65 ft-lb being typical, not a range ending at 65.): Tighten to 60-70 ft-lb (65 ft-lb typical) for 302ci engine main caps.
12. 12

    Check crankshaft endplay
    Install dial indicator against crankshaft snout. Pry crankshaft fully forward and zero dial indicator. Pry crankshaft fully rearward and note endplay reading. Specification is 0.004-0.008 inches. Endplay is controlled by thrust bearing surfaces on center main bearing (number 3). If endplay is incorrect, verify thrust bearing installation and consider oversized thrust washers if needed.
13. 13

    Install connecting rod bearings and check clearances
    Rotate crankshaft to position number 1 and 2 rod journals at bottom dead center. Install new upper rod bearing shells into connecting rods (already installed in pistons from previous disassembly). Install new lower bearing shells into rod caps. Place Plastigage on each rod journal. Pull piston/rod assemblies down and install rod caps in correct position and orientation. Tighten rod cap nuts to Ford spec (302 typically 19-24 ft-lb; verify against shop manual). Remove caps and measure Plastigage. Desired rod bearing clearance is 0.0008-0.0026 inches. Repeat for all 8 connecting rods, rotating crankshaft as needed for access.
14. 14

    Final connecting rod installation
    Remove Plastigage residue from all rod journals. Apply assembly lube to all rod bearing surfaces and rod journals. Install rod bearings with lube applied. Pull each piston/rod assembly down to its journal and install rod cap in correct position with match marks aligned. Tighten rod cap nuts to approximately 19-24 ft-lb following a cross-pattern (one side, then opposite side). Verify crankshaft still rotates freely. Repeat for all 8 cylinders.
15. 15

    Install rear main seal
    Install new rear main seal into rear main cap and block. The 1972 302ci uses rope-style or 2-piece seal depending on production date. For rope seal: carefully pack seal sections into grooves using seal installation tool or wooden dowel, allowing slight protrusion (approximately 0.005 inches) above cap parting line, then trim flush after cap installation. The 1972 302 uses a rope-style rear main seal; carefully pack seal sections into the cap and block grooves per the rope seal instructions above (2-piece rubber seals were not factory for this engine). Apply small amount of RTV to seal parting lines at cap interface.
16. 16

    Install timing components
    Apply assembly lube to camshaft gear and crankshaft gear. Align timing marks (dot on crank sprocket to dot on cam sprocket, positioned toward each other) and slide both gears onto their respective shafts simultaneously with chain engaged. Timing marks on both gears should align with each other when crankshaft is at TDC number 1. Install camshaft gear bolt and tighten to Ford spec (302 typically 40-45 ft-lb; verify against shop manual). Verify timing alignment is correct before proceeding. Install timing chain tensioner if equipped. Verified detail (The 1972 Ford 302ci V8 camshaft sprocket bolt is typically torqued to 40-45 ft-lb, which appears correct for this application.): 40.0 lb-ft (54.0 Nm)
17. 17

    Install oil pump and oil pan
    Install oil pump driveshaft into the block, engaging it with the distributor drive; install oil pump and engage the driveshaft into the pump. Apply assembly lube to oil pump gears. Install oil pump with new gasket onto main cap, engaging intermediate shaft into pump. Install 2 oil pump mounting bolts and tighten securely. Install oil pump pickup tube with new gasket or O-ring using 2 bolts. Apply thin bead of RTV sealant to oil pan rail on block and to timing cover mating area. Install new oil pan gasket. Install oil pan and insert all bolts finger tight (typically 14-16 bolts). Tighten oil pan bolts in cross-pattern to approximately 10-12 ft-lb.
18. 18

    Install front timing cover and seal
    Install new front crankshaft seal into timing cover using seal driver or appropriate socket. Apply RTV sealant to timing cover gasket surfaces and install new gasket. Position timing cover onto block, ensuring crankshaft snout passes through seal. Install timing cover bolts (typically 7-8 bolts) and tighten in cross-pattern to approximately 12-15 ft-lb. Install harmonic balancer onto crankshaft snout using installation tool (never hammer onto crank). Install balancer bolt and tighten to Ford spec (302 typically 70-90 ft-lb; verify against shop manual).
19. 19

    Install external components and prepare for installation
    Reinstall all external components in reverse order of removal: water pump, exhaust manifolds with new gaskets, intake manifold with new gaskets, valve covers with new gaskets, distributor (do not time yet), fuel pump, starter, flywheel or flexplate (aligned with marks made during removal), alternator and brackets, power steering pump, A/C compressor. Install new oil filter. Verify all bolts are properly torqued and all components are secure.
20. 20

    Reinstall engine into vehicle
    Remove engine from stand and attach to engine hoist. Carefully lower engine into engine bay, aligning with transmission bellhousing. Guide transmission input shaft into pilot bushing and clutch disc (manual) or flexplate alignment (automatic). Install engine mount bolts and transmission-to-engine bolts. Reconnect all electrical connectors, vacuum lines, fuel lines, control cables, and coolant hoses. Install driveshaft with marks aligned. Install radiator, fan, and shroud. Fill cooling system with the correct capacity of 50/50 coolant mixture (verify capacity for the 302 F-100; approximately 14-16 quarts). Fill engine with 5 quarts of fresh 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil. Reconnect battery.

Reassembly

1. Torque specifications must be verified for main cap bolts, rod cap nuts, harmonic balancer bolt, and camshaft gear bolt before final assembly
2. All fasteners should be verified as torque-to-yield or reusable before installation
3. Bearing clearances must be within specification before final assembly; do not skip Plastigage verification
4. Crankshaft must rotate freely by hand after each bearing cap installation; binding indicates improper installation or damaged components
5. Prime oil system before initial start by cranking engine with coil wire disconnected until oil pressure registers on gauge

Verification

• Verify crankshaft rotates smoothly by hand through two complete rotations with spark plugs removed
• Verify oil pressure builds to at least 40 psi within 15 seconds of engine start at idle when warm
• Check for oil leaks at pan gasket, timing cover, rear main seal, and all external component mounting points after initial start
• Listen for abnormal bearing noise (knocking or ticking) during initial break-in period; any noise indicates improper assembly
• Verify no coolant or oil mixing (check dipstick for milky appearance and coolant reservoir for oil film)
• Road test vehicle under light load for first 50 miles; avoid sustained high RPM or heavy load during break-in
• Re-check oil level after first test drive and inspect for leaks

More procedures for this vehicle