Flywheel Resurface

Remove the transmission and clutch assembly to access, remove, and resurface or replace the flywheel on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8, then reinstall all components.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Flywheel resurfacing service × 1 — Use qualified machine shop
• Clutch disc × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Clutch pressure plate × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Pilot bearing or bushing × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission input shaft seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Rear main seal (optional) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission fluid × 1 — Type F ATF

Fluids

• Type F ATF — 11 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at front crossmember and rear axle.
4. Mark driveshaft and rear axle yoke alignment with paint or marker for correct reinstallation.
5. Place drain pan under transmission and drain transmission fluid from drain plug.
6. Have transmission jack ready and positioned under transmission before beginning removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect driveshaft
   Remove the fasteners securing the rear U-joint to the rear axle pinion yoke (typically 2 U-bolts/straps with 4 nuts, or 4 bolts depending on configuration). Support the driveshaft and slide the front slip yoke rearward to disengage from the transmission output shaft. Lower the driveshaft and remove from vehicle. Inspect the output shaft seal for leakage.
2. 2

   Disconnect clutch linkage and cables
   Disconnect the clutch release fork from the clutch linkage. Remove the clutch linkage rod or cable from the clutch fork. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission by unscrewing the retaining ferrule. Verified detail (A 1972 Ford F-100 uses a mechanical clutch linkage (rod/Z-bar/equalizer bar), not a clutch cable. Referring to 'cables' is anachronistic for this platform; the speedometer cable is the only cable involved.): Disconnect clutch linkage
3. 3

   Remove transmission crossmember
   Position transmission jack under transmission pan and raise slightly to support transmission weight. Remove the 2 bolts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember. Remove the 6 bolts securing the crossmember to the frame rails. Lower and remove the crossmember from vehicle.
4. 4

   Remove transmission mounting bolts
   Remove the 4 bolts securing the transmission bellhousing to the engine block. Note bolt locations as they may be different lengths. Support the transmission with the transmission jack and carefully slide the transmission rearward approximately 1 inch to clear the clutch splines and pilot bearing, then lower and remove from vehicle.
5. 5

   Remove clutch pressure plate and disc
   Mark the pressure plate position relative to the flywheel for balanced reassembly. Using a large screwdriver or flywheel holding tool, prevent flywheel rotation. Gradually loosen the 6 pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern, turning each bolt 1-2 turns at a time to release spring tension evenly. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc as an assembly. Inspect clutch components for wear, hot spots, and oil contamination.
6. 6

   Remove flywheel
   Using a flywheel holding tool or large screwdriver wedged between flywheel teeth and block, prevent crankshaft rotation. Remove the 6 flywheel bolts securing the flywheel to the crankshaft flange. Note bolt locations if different lengths are used. Carefully remove the flywheel from the crankshaft, supporting its weight (approximately 25 pounds). Inspect the rear main seal for oil leakage. Verified detail (The Ford 302 V8 typically uses 6 flywheel bolts, not 8. Small block Ford engines (260, 289, 302, 351W) standardly use a 6-bolt flywheel pattern.): Remove the 6 flywheel bolts securing the flywheel to the crankshaft flange.
7. 7

   Inspect and clean flywheel
   Inspect flywheel friction surface for cracks, hot spots, glazing, hard spots, or deep scoring. Measure flywheel thickness with a micrometer if available. Clean the flywheel mounting surface and crankshaft flange thoroughly with brake cleaner and wire brush. Inspect the ring gear teeth for damage. If flywheel surface shows heat damage, excessive scoring beyond 0.030 inch depth, or cracks, it must be resurfaced or replaced.
8. 8

   Resurface flywheel at machine shop
   Take the flywheel to a qualified machine shop for resurfacing. Specify that the flywheel must maintain minimum thickness specifications and that no more than 0.030 inch should be removed from the friction surface. The machine shop will surface grind the flywheel to restore a flat, smooth surface for proper clutch engagement. After resurfacing, clean the flywheel thoroughly to remove all metal particles and grinding dust.
9. 9

   Replace pilot bearing and rear main seal
   Using a pilot bearing puller or slide hammer, remove the pilot bearing or bushing from the crankshaft. Clean the pilot bearing bore thoroughly. Install the new pilot bearing using a pilot bearing installation tool or socket that matches the bearing outer diameter, driving it in until flush with the crankshaft bore. If the rear main seal shows any oil leakage, replace it now using a seal installation tool to avoid damage.
10. 10

    Reinstall flywheel
    Clean the crankshaft flange and flywheel mounting surface with brake cleaner. Position the flywheel onto the crankshaft, aligning the dowel pin or offset bolt holes for correct orientation. Install the 6 flywheel bolts hand-tight. Using a flywheel holding tool, tighten the flywheel bolts in a crisscross pattern in three stages: first to 30 ft-lb, then to 50 ft-lb, and finally to 70.0 lb-ft (95.0 Nm). Verified detail (The Ford 302 V8 uses 6 flywheel bolts, not 8. The torque specification of 70.0 lb-ft (95.0 Nm) is plausible but should be verified; some sources indicate 75-85 ft-lb for Ford small blocks.): Install the 6 flywheel bolts hand-tight. Using a flywheel holding tool, tighten the flywheel bolts in a crisscross pattern in three stages: first to 30 ft-lb, then to 50 ft-lb, and finally to 70.0 lb-ft (95.0 Nm).
11. 11

    Install new clutch disc and pressure plate
    Clean the flywheel friction surface with brake cleaner and allow to dry completely. Position the new clutch disc against the flywheel with the cushion springs or marked side facing the pressure plate (away from flywheel). Insert the clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc hub and into the pilot bearing to center the disc. Position the new pressure plate over the clutch disc, aligning the pressure plate to the flywheel marks if reusing, or balancing as needed. Install the 6 pressure plate bolts hand-tight, then tighten gradually in a crisscross pattern to 15 ft-lb. Remove the alignment tool after all bolts are fully torqued.
12. 12

    Reinstall transmission
    Apply a light coat of high-temperature grease to the transmission input shaft splines and the clutch release bearing retainer. Position the transmission on the transmission jack and raise into position. Carefully guide the transmission input shaft through the clutch disc splines and into the pilot bearing, ensuring the transmission bellhousing locates on the engine block dowel pins. Install the 4 transmission bellhousing bolts and tighten to 50 ft-lb in a crisscross pattern.
13. 13

    Reinstall crossmember and linkage
    Raise the transmission slightly with the transmission jack. Position the crossmember onto the frame rails and install the 6 frame bolts hand-tight. Install the 2 transmission mount bolts and tighten to 48.0 lb-ft (65.0 Nm). Tighten the 6 crossmember-to-frame bolts to 45 ft-lb. Remove the transmission jack. Reconnect the clutch linkage and adjust as necessary for proper clutch pedal free play. Reconnect the speedometer cable.
14. 14

    Reinstall driveshaft and refill fluid
    Lubricate the transmission output shaft with transmission fluid. Align the driveshaft with the transmission output shaft and slide forward into engagement. Rotate the driveshaft as needed to align splines. Align the driveshaft U-joint with the rear axle yoke using the alignment marks made during disassembly. Install the 4 U-joint bolts and tighten to 15 ft-lb. Refill the transmission with approximately 1.5 quarts of SAE 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil through the transmission filler plug until fluid reaches the bottom of the filler plug hole. Verified detail (A 1972 F-100 with a manual transmission (this procedure assumes manual, and uses Type F ATF as fluid) would not hold 11 quarts. Manual transmissions of this era (e.g., 3-speed or 4-speed) typically hold roughly 3.5-4.5 pints (about 2-3.5 quarts), and are filled through a side fill plug to the level of the plug hole, not a dipstick tube. Also, many manual transmissions of this era use gear oil (GL-4), though some Ford units did spec Type F ATF.): Refill the transmission with the specified fluid through the side fill plug until fluid reaches the bottom of the fill plug hole. Manual transmission capacity is typically 3 to 4 pints; verify exact capacity and fluid type (Type F ATF or GL-4 gear oil) for your specific transmission before filling.

Reassembly

1. Verify all bolts are tightened to specification and no tools or parts are left in the work area.
2. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Lower the vehicle from jack stands.
4. Test clutch pedal operation for proper feel and engagement point before road testing.

Verification

• Start the engine with the clutch pedal depressed and verify smooth operation without abnormal noises.
• With engine running, verify the transmission shifts smoothly into all gears without grinding.
• Test drive the vehicle and verify smooth clutch engagement without chatter, slipping, or vibration.
• Verify no fluid leaks from the transmission, rear main seal, or driveshaft connection.
• Recheck transmission fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary.

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