suspension

Knuckle/Spindle - Rear

for 1972 Ford F-100 302ci V8 · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.5 h
Tools
15
Steps
15
🤖AI-drafted, AI fact-checked. An independent second model reviewed this procedure line by line and its corrections have been applied. Final sign-off by Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore is still pending. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear wheel spindle (knuckle) on a 1972 Ford F-100 with full-floating rear axle, including bearing and seal service.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
This procedure requires removal of brake components. Do not operate the vehicle until brakes are fully reassembled and tested.
If bearings or races show pitting, scoring, or discoloration, replace as a complete set. Mixing old and new components will cause premature failure.
ℹ️This procedure assumes a full-floating rear axle design typical of F-100 models. Semi-floating axles require different procedures.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and set parking brake firmly
  2. Chock front wheels securely
  3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground
  4. Raise rear of vehicle and support on jack stands at frame rails
  5. Remove rear wheel completely
  6. Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak 10-15 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake drum
    Remove the brake drum retaining screws if present. Pull the brake drum straight off the spindle. If drum is stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap around the outer edge. If severely rusted, use drum puller or back off brake adjustment through the access hole in the backing plate.
  2. 2
    Remove spindle nut assembly
    Straighten the bent tab on the spindle lock washer using a flat screwdriver. Using the spindle nut socket, remove the large spindle nut by turning counterclockwise. Remove the lock washer and set aside (replace during reassembly).
  3. 3
    Remove outer bearing and hub
    Pull the hub assembly straight off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing cone will typically come out with the hub. Remove the outer bearing cone from the hub and set aside. If the bearing stays on the spindle, remove it by hand.
  4. 4
    Remove inner bearing seal and bearing
    With the hub removed and facing you, use a seal puller or pry bar to carefully remove the inner grease seal from the back of the hub. Discard the old seal. Remove the inner bearing cone from the hub cavity and set aside for inspection.
  5. 5
    Remove backing plate and spindle assembly
    Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder using a flare nut wrench to prevent rounding. Cap or plug the brake line immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove the 4 spindle mounting bolts securing the backing plate and spindle to the axle housing flange. Carefully pull the entire spindle and backing plate assembly off the axle housing.
  6. 6
    Separate spindle from backing plate
    Remove the 4 bolts securing the spindle to the brake backing plate. Separate the spindle from the backing plate. Inspect the spindle for damage, scoring, cracks, or excessive wear. Replace if any defects are found.
  7. 7
    Remove bearing races from hub
    Using a brass drift and hammer, drive out the inner and outer bearing races from inside the hub. Work around the race in a circular pattern, tapping alternately on opposite sides to prevent cocking. Clean the hub bore thoroughly with brake cleaner and inspect for cracks or damage.
  8. 8
    Install new bearing races
    Place the new outer bearing race squarely into the hub bore and drive it in using a bearing race driver or large socket that contacts only the outer edge of the race. Drive until fully seated and flush. Repeat for the inner bearing race. Ensure both races are fully seated with no gaps.
  9. 9
    Pack wheel bearings with grease
    Clean new bearings with brake cleaner and dry thoroughly. Using a bearing packer or by hand, pack high-temperature wheel bearing grease into the bearing cage, working grease between all rollers until grease appears on the opposite side. Coat the entire bearing thoroughly. Pack both inner and outer bearings.
  10. 10
    Install inner bearing and seal
    Place a thin coat of grease in the hub cavity. Install the packed inner bearing cone into the hub. Apply grease to the outer edge and seal surface of the new grease seal. Using a seal driver or large socket, carefully drive the new seal straight into the hub until flush with the hub face. Ensure seal is not cocked or damaged during installation.
  11. 11
    Attach spindle to backing plate
    Mount the new or cleaned spindle to the brake backing plate using the 4 mounting bolts. Torque bolts in a cross pattern to ensure even seating. Verify spindle is square to backing plate and all mounting surfaces are clean.
  12. 12
    Install spindle assembly to axle housing
    Clean the axle housing flange surface thoroughly. Position the backing plate gasket (if used) on the axle housing flange. Carefully slide the spindle and backing plate assembly onto the axle housing, aligning the 4 bolt holes. Install the spindle mounting bolts (verify exact count) and torque in a cross pattern to the factory specification (verify — approximately 45-65 ft-lb pending manual confirmation).
  13. 13
    Reconnect brake line
    Reconnect the brake line to the wheel cylinder using a flare nut wrench. Torque to proper specification to prevent leaks but avoid over-tightening which can damage the flare.
  14. 14
    Install hub and adjust bearings
    Pack additional grease onto the spindle bearing surface. Slide the hub assembly onto the spindle, being careful not to damage the inner seal. Install the packed outer bearing cone into the hub. Install the lock washer and spindle nut. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the hub to seat the bearings. Torque the spindle nut to the seating value specified in the Ford shop manual while rotating the hub to seat the bearings, then back off and re-adjust to achieve the manufacturer-specified end play (verify exact spec). Bend one tab of the lock washer into the spindle nut slot. The hub should rotate freely with only slight drag and have the factory-specified endplay (typically 0.001-0.010 inch — verify against manual).
  15. 15
    Install brake drum and wheel
    Clean the brake drum mating surface and hub face. Install the brake drum and secure with retaining screws if equipped. Install the wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower vehicle until tire just touches ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the factory specification (verify — typically 85-115 ft-lb for a 1972 F-100). Verified detail (Torque specification for wheel lug nuts on 1972 Ford F-100): 103.0 lb-ft (140.0 Nm)

Reassembly

  1. Bleed brake system completely at all four wheels following proper bleeding sequence
  2. Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid to proper level
  3. Pump brake pedal several times and verify firm pedal feel before moving vehicle
  4. Test drive in safe area at low speed to verify proper brake operation and no wheel bearing noise
  5. Recheck wheel bearing adjustment after first 50-100 miles of driving

Verification

  • Spin wheel by hand - should rotate freely with only slight drag from brakes
  • Check for excessive wheel endplay by grasping tire at top and bottom and attempting to rock - should have minimal play
  • Verify no grinding, clicking, or humming noises during test drive
  • Confirm brake pedal is firm and brakes operate normally with no pulling or pulsation
  • Check for any fluid leaks at brake line connection and spindle seal
  • Verify all fasteners are properly torqued and safety devices (lock washers) are properly installed
🔧Stuck on this knuckle/spindle - rear? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Ford within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
🔓 LIBERATED FOREVER
The 1972 Ford F-100 302ci V8 repair data is free for every DIYer and shop on earth, permanently, because Anonymous Sponsor paid $99 to unlock it.
Mitchell1 charges $169/mo for this. ALLDATAdiy charges $30/yr per vehicle. Open Labor Project is free permanently, because of community sponsors like Anonymous.
Free another vehicle →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →