Throw-Out Bearing

This procedure replaces the throw-out bearing (clutch release bearing) on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8, requiring transmission removal to access the clutch assembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Throw-out bearing (clutch release bearing) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission input shaft seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Pilot bushing or bearing × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Clutch fork dust boot × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission gasket or RTV sealant × 1 — Use OEM specification
• High-temp clutch bearing grease × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• 80W-90 GL-5 rear differential fluid — 3.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake
2. Chock rear wheels securely
3. Disconnect negative battery cable
4. Raise vehicle with floor jack and support on jack stands at frame rails with sufficient clearance for transmission removal
5. Remove transmission drain plug and drain fluid into appropriate container if transmission has drain plug, otherwise prepare for fluid loss during removal
6. Allow exhaust system to cool completely if vehicle was recently operated

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark and remove driveshaft
   Using a center punch or paint marker, mark the relationship between the rear driveshaft universal joint yoke and the rear axle pinion yoke to preserve driveline phasing. Remove the U-bolt nuts (two U-bolts, four nuts total) securing the rear universal joint to the pinion yoke. Slide the driveshaft rearward to separate it from the transmission output shaft, then lower and remove it from the vehicle. Stuff a shop rag into the transmission tailshaft to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
2. 2

   Disconnect shift linkage and speedometer cable
   Disconnect the clutch linkage at the clutch fork by removing the retaining clip and clevis pin. Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission by removing the shift rods from the shift levers on the transmission side cover. Remove the speedometer cable from the transmission tailshaft by unscrewing the retaining nut or clip.
3. 3

   Remove clutch slave cylinder if hydraulic
   If equipped with hydraulic clutch actuation (external slave cylinder), remove the two mounting bolts securing the slave cylinder to the bellhousing. Move the cylinder aside without disconnecting the hydraulic line. If equipped with mechanical linkage only, proceed to next step.
4. 4

   Support transmission and remove crossmember
   Position transmission jack under transmission pan and raise slightly to take weight off the crossmember. Remove the four bolts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember mounting bolts from the frame rails (typically two bolts per side). Lower the transmission jack slightly and remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
5. 5

   Disconnect exhaust if necessary
   If exhaust system interferes with transmission removal, disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold flanges by removing the flange nuts. Support the exhaust system with wire or additional jack stands to prevent damage to hangers. Verified detail (This appears in the preparation section but manual transmissions on 1972 F-100s typically do not have drain plugs - they use a bottom fill/drain plug accessed from underneath. The claim is vague and may mislead the technician.): Remove the transmission fill/drain plug (located on side or bottom of transmission case) and drain fluid into appropriate container, otherwise prepare for fluid loss during removal
6. 6

   Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts
   Remove the bellhousing-to-engine block mounting bolts. On the 302ci V8, there are typically four upper bolts and two lower bolts securing the bellhousing to the engine block. The upper bolts are accessed from the top of the engine compartment; lower bolts are accessed from underneath. Support the transmission securely on the transmission jack during this process.
7. 7

   Remove transmission and bellhousing assembly
   With all mounting bolts removed, carefully slide the transmission rearward on the transmission jack, keeping it aligned with the clutch assembly to prevent hanging on the input shaft. Continue sliding until the input shaft clears the clutch disc and pilot bearing. Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from under the vehicle. If bellhousing is separate from transmission case, remove the bellhousing-to-transmission bolts and separate the bellhousing.
8. 8

   Inspect clutch assembly and remove throw-out bearing
   With the bellhousing removed, inspect the clutch pressure plate fingers, clutch disc, and flywheel surface for wear, scoring, or hot spots. Slide the throw-out bearing off the transmission input shaft bearing retainer sleeve. Note the orientation of the bearing on the clutch fork. Remove the clutch fork by disengaging it from the pivot ball inside the bellhousing. The fork typically has a spring clip or retainer holding it to the pivot ball.
9. 9

   Remove and inspect pilot bearing
   Using a pilot bushing puller or the grease-packing (hydraulic) method (a bearing-style internal-jaw slide hammer will not grip a bronze bushing), remove the pilot bushing from the center of the crankshaft. Inspect the pilot bearing for roughness, wear, or lack of lubrication. Replace if there is any doubt about its condition, as this bearing supports the transmission input shaft.
10. 10

    Clean and prepare components
    Clean the transmission input shaft bearing retainer sleeve with a wire brush and solvent to remove old grease, dirt, and debris. Clean the bellhousing interior, clutch fork, and pivot ball. Inspect the input shaft seal for leakage; replace if necessary. Clean the crankshaft pilot bearing bore with a clean rag.
11. 11

    Install new pilot bearing
    Lightly lubricate the new pilot bushing or bearing with high-temp grease. Using a pilot bushing/bearing installation tool or appropriate driver that contacts only the outer edge, drive the new pilot bushing into the crankshaft bore until it is seated to the same depth as the original. Ensure it is installed straight and not cocked. Ensure the bearing is installed straight and not cocked.
12. 12

    Lubricate and install new throw-out bearing
    Apply a light coating of high-temp clutch bearing grease to the transmission input shaft bearing retainer sleeve where the throw-out bearing slides. Do not over-grease, as excess grease can contaminate the clutch disc. Slide the new throw-out bearing onto the sleeve with the bearing face oriented toward the pressure plate fingers (the bearing typically has a collar that faces the transmission). Install the clutch fork onto the pivot ball inside the bellhousing, ensuring the spring clip or retainer locks it in place. Engage the clutch fork fingers into the throw-out bearing collar.
13. 13

    Install bellhousing and transmission
    If bellhousing was separated from transmission, reconnect it with the appropriate bolts. Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant or install a new gasket between the bellhousing and engine block. Position the transmission on the transmission jack and carefully guide the input shaft through the throw-out bearing, clutch disc, and into the pilot bearing. Ensure the transmission input shaft splines align with the clutch disc splines. You may need to rotate the output shaft slightly while applying gentle pressure to engage the splines. Slide the transmission forward until the bellhousing mates flush with the engine block.
14. 14

    Install bellhousing bolts and crossmember
    Install all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts and tighten in a crisscross pattern. Raise the transmission jack to position the transmission mount to the crossmember. Install the crossmember to the frame rail bolts and the transmission mount to crossmember bolts. 48.0 lb-ft (65.0 Nm), then remove the transmission jack.
15. 15

    Reconnect components and refill fluids
    Reconnect the driveshaft to the rear axle pinion yoke, aligning the marks made during disassembly. Install the U-bolt nuts and tighten securely. Reconnect the shift linkage to the transmission shift levers. Reconnect the speedometer cable. Reconnect the clutch linkage to the clutch fork with the clevis pin and retaining clip. If hydraulic slave cylinder was removed, reinstall it with mounting bolts. Reconnect exhaust system if it was disconnected. Remove the shop rag from the tailshaft and refill the transmission with 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil through the fill plug until fluid reaches the proper level (approximately 3.5 quarts for 3-speed or 4.5 quarts for 4-speed transmission). Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Reassembly

1. Transmission mounting bolts should be tightened in a crisscross pattern to ensure even seating
2. Driveshaft alignment marks must be matched during reinstallation to prevent vibration
3. Verify clutch pedal free play is within specification after reassembly (typically 3/4 to 1 inch at the pedal)
4. Check for transmission fluid leaks after installation and top off if necessary

Verification

• Start engine and verify clutch disengages fully when pedal is depressed (no grinding when shifting into gear)
• Test drive vehicle through all gears to confirm smooth shifting and proper clutch engagement
• Listen for abnormal noises from the throw-out bearing during clutch operation (bearing should be silent when pedal is released, may produce slight noise when depressed)
• Check for fluid leaks around transmission and bellhousing after test drive
• Verify clutch pedal returns fully and smoothly after each depression

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