Wheel Bearing Hub - Front

This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front wheel bearing hub assembly on a 1972 Ford F-100 with a 302ci V8, including proper bearing inspection, packing, and adjustment.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing set (inner and outer) × 1 — Use OEM specification or Timken SET2
• Front wheel bearing races (inner and outer) × 1 — Usually included with bearing set
• Front wheel grease seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Spindle nut washer × 1 — Reuse if undamaged
• Spindle nut lock (castellated nut) × 1 — Reuse if threads good
• Cotter pin (1/8" diameter) × 1 — Use new pin
• High-temperature wheel bearing grease (NLGI Grade 2) × 1 — Use lithium-based wheel bearing grease

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake.
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is still on the ground.
3. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at frame rail and secure on jack stands under frame.
4. Remove front wheel completely.
5. Inspect brake rotor and caliper for any damage or excessive wear while accessible.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper
   Remove the two brake caliper mounting bolts located on the back side of the caliper bracket. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and secure it to the suspension or frame using wire or a caliper hanger. Do not disconnect the brake hose or allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
2. 2

   Remove dust cap and cotter pin
   Pry off the metal dust cap from the center of the hub using a flathead screwdriver or seal puller. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castellated spindle nut using pliers. Discard the old cotter pin.
3. 3

   Remove spindle nut and washer
   Using a large adjustable wrench or spindle nut socket, remove the castellated spindle nut by turning counterclockwise. Remove the flat spindle washer beneath the nut. Keep the washer for inspection and potential reuse.
4. 4

   Remove outer bearing and hub assembly
   Grasp the rotor/hub assembly firmly and pull it straight off the spindle approximately 1-2 inches. The outer wheel bearing will slide forward and can be removed by hand. Set the outer bearing aside on a clean rag. Pull the entire rotor/hub assembly completely off the spindle.
5. 5

   Remove inner bearing and grease seal
   Place the hub face-down on a clean work surface. Using a seal puller or large flathead screwdriver, carefully pry out the inner grease seal from the back of the hub. The inner wheel bearing will be behind the seal and may fall out. Remove the inner bearing and discard the old grease seal.
6. 6

   Remove and inspect bearing races
   Using a bearing race driver or brass punch, tap out the inner and outer bearing races from inside the hub. Work around the race circumference to drive them out evenly. Inspect the hub bore for any scoring, pitting, or damage. Clean the hub bore thoroughly with brake cleaner and a wire brush.
7. 7

   Install new bearing races
   Place the new outer bearing race into the hub opening (front side) and tap it in squarely using a bearing race driver or large socket that contacts only the outer edge of the race. Drive until fully seated. Repeat for the inner bearing race on the back side of the hub. Ensure both races are fully seated with no gaps.
8. 8

   Pack bearings with grease
   Using a bearing packer tool or by hand, pack high-temperature wheel bearing grease into both the inner and outer bearings. Work grease completely through all rollers until grease appears on the opposite side. Ensure complete saturation of all bearing surfaces. Also apply a light coat of grease to the bearing races inside the hub and on the spindle surface.
9. 9

   Install inner bearing and seal
   Place the packed inner bearing into the inner race in the hub. Apply grease to the lip of the new grease seal. Using a seal driver or large socket, carefully tap the new grease seal into the back of the hub until it is flush and fully seated. Ensure the seal is installed squarely to prevent leaks.
10. 10

    Install hub assembly on spindle
    Apply a thin coating of wheel bearing grease to the spindle. Carefully slide the hub/rotor assembly onto the spindle, being careful not to damage the new grease seal. Push the hub fully onto the spindle.
11. 11

    Install outer bearing and adjust preload
    Install the packed outer bearing onto the spindle and into the outer race. Install the spindle washer and castellated nut. Hand-tighten the nut while rotating the hub forward (clockwise) to seat the bearings. Tighten the spindle nut to 17-25 lb-ft while rotating the hub to fully seat bearings. Back off the nut 1/2 turn, then hand-tighten until just snug (approximately 10-15 lb-ft finger tight). Back off the nut to the nearest castellated slot that aligns with the spindle hole. The hub should have 0.001-0.005 inches of endplay when properly adjusted. Verified detail (Ford's spec for this era typically calls for torquing the nut to ~17-25 lb-ft while rotating to seat, then backing off and re-tightening to a low value (often finger-tight/10-15 in-lbs, not ft-lbs) before backing off to the cotter pin slot. The 50 lb-ft seating figure and '10-15 lb-ft finger tight' should be verified against the Ford shop manual; the final snug value is likely in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds.): Tighten the spindle nut to approximately 17-25 lb-ft while rotating the hub to fully seat the bearings. Back off the nut completely, then hand-tighten to just snug (finger-tight only). Back off the nut to the nearest castellated slot that aligns with the spindle hole. The hub should have 0.001-0.005 inches of endplay when properly adjusted. Verify final adjustment against the Ford shop manual specification.
12. 12

    Install cotter pin and dust cap
    Insert a new 1/8-inch cotter pin through the spindle hole and castellated nut. Bend the cotter pin ends to secure (one end forward, one backward around the nut). Trim excess length if necessary. Tap the dust cap back onto the hub center using a rubber mallet until fully seated.
13. 13

    Reinstall brake caliper
    Remove the caliper from its hanger and carefully position it over the rotor. Install the caliper mounting bolts and tighten to specification. Ensure the caliper moves freely and brake pads contact the rotor evenly.
    Torque spec

    Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Install the wheel onto the hub and hand-tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground. Torque lug nuts to 75-85 lb-ft in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. Verified detail (Lug nut torque for a 1972 F-100 (1/2-20 studs on 5-lug, or larger on some 3/4-ton) is typically in the 85-115 lb-ft range depending on stud size; 100 lb-ft is plausible but should be verified against the specific wheel/stud configuration.): Torque lug nuts to the Ford specification (typically 85-115 lb-ft depending on stud size) in a star pattern.

Reassembly

1. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure proper brake caliper operation before moving the vehicle.
2. Repeat this entire procedure for the opposite front wheel to ensure balanced bearing condition.
3. After driving 50-100 miles, recheck the wheel bearing adjustment by jacking up the wheel and checking for excessive endplay. Slight readjustment may be necessary after initial break-in.

Verification

• Spin the wheel by hand to verify smooth rotation with no grinding, clicking, or binding.
• Check for proper endplay by grasping the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and attempting to rock it. There should be minimal play (0.001-0.005 inches).
• Verify the cotter pin is properly installed and secured.
• Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises, vibrations, or pulling to one side.
• Check that brakes operate normally with firm pedal feel and even braking.

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