Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front

Remove and replace press-in front wheel bearings on a 1972 Ford F-100 with 302ci V8, including spindle removal, bearing press-out/press-in, seal installation, and hub reassembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in type) × 2 — Use OEM specification for Dana 44 or Ford Twin I-Beam
• Wheel bearing grease seal × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Spindle locknut × 2 — Use OEM specification if reusable type is damaged
• Cotter pin for spindle nut × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Wheel bearing grease (high-temperature) × 1 — NLGI Grade 2

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands under frame rails
5. Remove front wheels completely
6. Verify you have access to a hydraulic press before beginning disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper
   If equipped with front disc brakes, remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts using a socket wrench. Note: many 1972 F-100 trucks have front drum brakes, in which case remove the brake drum instead and skip caliper/rotor steps. Slide the caliper off the rotor and secure it to the frame or suspension with wire to prevent strain on the brake hose. Do not disconnect the brake line.
2. 2

   Remove brake rotor and dust cap
   Pull the brake rotor straight off the hub. If stuck, tap gently with a dead blow hammer from behind. Remove the dust cap from the center of the hub by prying carefully with a flat screwdriver or tapping around the edge with a punch.
3. 3

   Remove spindle locknut and washer
   Straighten the cotter pin with pliers and remove it completely. Use a large adjustable wrench or hub nut socket to remove the spindle adjusting nut (standard right-hand thread, turns counterclockwise to loosen). Remove the keyed thrust washer behind the nut. Verified detail (Part list references a 'spindle locknut' as a replaceable torque-to-spec item, but this vehicle uses a reusable castellated adjusting nut, not a crush/locknut. Listing it as OEM replacement part may mislead.): Spindle adjusting nut (castellated) and keyed washer
4. 4

   Remove hub assembly from spindle
   Pull the hub assembly straight off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will come out with the hub. If resistance is felt, gently rock the hub while pulling. Set the hub aside on a clean work surface with the outer bearing side up.
5. 5

   Remove inner bearing seal and bearing
   Turn the hub over so the backside is facing up. Using a pry bar or large screwdriver, carefully pry out the inner grease seal. This will expose the inner wheel bearing. Remove the inner bearing from the hub.
6. 6

   Disconnect tie rod end
   Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut. Loosen the castle nut but do not remove it completely. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the tie rod end taper loose from the spindle arm. Remove the castle nut and separate the tie rod end completely.
7. 7

   Remove spindle from axle
   NOTE: Spindle removal is NOT required for wheel bearing service on this vehicle. The Twin I-Beam spindle attaches via upper and lower ball joints, not 4 bolts. Skip this step — bearings and races are serviced with the spindle in place. Pull the spindle assembly straight off the I-beam arm. The spindle should now be free for bearing service.
8. 8

   Press out old bearing races from hub
   Clean the hub thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect the bearing bores for damage or scoring. Using a brass drift or bearing race driver and a hammer, drive out both the inner and outer bearing cups (races) from the hub, working around the circumference evenly. Support the hub properly on press blocks to avoid distortion. Press from the inside outward, driving against the outer edge of each race.
9. 9

   Clean and inspect hub and spindle
   Clean all old grease from the hub bore using brake cleaner and shop rags. Use a wire brush to clean the spindle thoroughly. Inspect the spindle for wear, scoring, or damage in the bearing contact areas. Inspect hub bores for cracks, scoring, or out-of-round conditions. Replace any damaged components.
10. 10

    Press in new bearing races
    Place the hub securely in the hydraulic press with proper support under the hub face. Position the new outer bearing race squarely in the bore. Using a bearing race driver that contacts only the outer edge of the race, press the race in until it seats completely against the shoulder. Repeat for the inner bearing race, ensuring both races are fully seated and square.
11. 11

    Pack bearings with grease
    Using high-temperature wheel bearing grease, pack both the new inner and outer bearings by working grease thoroughly into the rollers. Force grease between each roller from the large end of the bearing until grease emerges from the small end. Alternatively, use a bearing packer tool. Coat the bearing races in the hub with a thin layer of grease.
12. 12

    Install inner bearing and seal
    Place the packed inner bearing into the inner race in the hub. Apply a light coating of grease to the outer lip of the new inner seal. Position the seal squarely over the bearing with the lip facing inward toward the bearing. Using a seal driver or large socket that contacts only the outer edge of the seal, tap or press the seal into place until it is flush with or slightly below the hub surface.
13. 13

    Reinstall spindle to axle
    Clean the spindle mounting surface on the axle and apply a thin coating of anti-seize to the threads of the spindle mounting bolts. Position the spindle onto the I-beam arm and align the 4 bolt holes. Install the 4 spindle mounting bolts and tighten in a cross pattern to proper specification. Verify spindle is seated flush against the I-beam arm mounting surface. Verified detail (As with step 7, the Twin I-Beam spindle is retained by ball joints, not 4 bolts to the axle. This reassembly step is based on the incorrect fastener premise and should be removed.): NOTE: Spindle reinstallation via 4 bolts does not apply to this Twin I-Beam vehicle. If ball joints were separated, reconnect and torque the upper and lower ball joint nuts to Ford specification and install new cotter pins.
14. 14

    Install hub assembly onto spindle
    Coat the spindle with a thin layer of wheel bearing grease. Install the packed outer bearing into the outer bearing race in the hub. Carefully slide the hub assembly onto the spindle, guiding it over the outer bearing. Push the hub fully onto the spindle until it seats against the outer bearing.
15. 15

    Adjust wheel bearing preload
    Install the flat washer and spindle locknut onto the spindle. While rotating the hub forward (same direction as wheel rotation), tighten the adjusting nut to approximately 17-25 ft-lb to seat the bearings. Back off the nut completely, then hand-tighten (finger tight, roughly 18-20 in-lb) while still rotating the hub. Then back off to the nearest cotter pin slot so the bearing has slight endplay with no binding. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and spindle. If holes do not align, loosen the nut slightly until the next slot aligns. Verify hub spins freely with no binding and has 0.001 to 0.003 inch endplay per Ford specification.
16. 16

    Reconnect tie rod end
    Insert the tie rod end stud into the spindle arm hole. Install the castle nut and tighten to proper specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud, bending the ends to secure.
17. 17

    Install dust cap, rotor, and caliper
    Tap the dust cap into place over the spindle nut using a hammer and block of wood or large socket. Ensure it is seated fully. Slide the brake rotor onto the hub. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and install the 2 caliper mounting bolts, tightening to specification.

Reassembly

1. Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern
2. Lower vehicle to ground and remove jack stands
3. Torque wheel lug nuts to proper specification in a star pattern
4. Pump brake pedal several times to ensure proper caliper piston position before moving vehicle
5. Perform a test drive at low speed to verify proper bearing operation and no abnormal noise or vibration

Verification

• Raise vehicle and spin each front wheel by hand to verify smooth rotation with no grinding, binding, or excessive play
• Check for wheel bearing endplay by grasping the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and attempting to rock it; there should be minimal to no perceptible movement
• Verify dust caps are fully seated and secure
• After test drive, carefully feel the hub center area (avoiding brake components) to check for excessive heat that would indicate over-tightened bearings
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving

More procedures for this vehicle